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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I have my center section clocked to where the oil supply is at the 2 o'clock position, and the return is at the 8 o'clock position. Right now my turbos oil seals are pretty much shot, and I'm wondering if this could've been a cause. Could it be the reason that a brand new turbo spouts oil?

Eric
 

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OCC
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8 o'clock will still drain, but might not evacuate fast enough. What size drain hose/pipe? Mileage on the turbo?

I'd give the boys at turbonetics a call to see what they think about the drain angle/seal failure... keep us posted.

sushi
 

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The need for speed
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I can't give any experience on if that would have caused your turbo to die so soon (2oclock and 8oclock doesn't seem that bad), but I can tell you that it is highly recommended keeping the oil feed as close to the top position as possible or you will have premature turbo failure...

 

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It doesn't help the situation. The lines should be 12 and 6. What size is the return line? Is that angled as well?
 

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REVTECHRACING.COM
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mine is closest to the 11-5 o clock position. hope that is good enough. it was the best i could get it at the time. do i need to reconsider changeing it.?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's a -6 supply and the -10 return. I've been trying to reclock it, but I'd have to take the whole turbo off for that, and it's a real pain in the ass to do. I think if I clock it properly, it'll help out and maybe solve the situation of the oil making it past the seals.

This article helped out in a quick diagnosis. http://www.dieselpage.com/art0898tu.htm

Eric
 

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feeding your habit
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cowboy bebop said:
Hey guys,

I have my center section clocked to where the oil supply is at the 2 o'clock position, and the return is at the 8 o'clock position. Right now my turbos oil seals are pretty much shot, and I'm wondering if this could've been a cause. Could it be the reason that a brand new turbo spouts oil?

Eric

Your turbo if it is not BB is designed so that there is no pressureization of the bearings, the oil needs to be able to drain. Any thing impeding the drain will cause it to leak thru the "seals" which aren't seals they are just very tight toleranced carbon rings. Put your drain at the bottom and you will have no problems.

-M
 

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Journal bearings don't use pressurized oil???? BB turbos require less oil than a journal bearing.

As for this problem....I have trouble believing that little bit of rotation would cause a leak. The seal is simply a piston ring...do you know if it has collapsed or not? If it has collapsed you are hosed. This is usually due to running the tubocharger too hot. If it is not collapsed then you simply have too much back pressure at the oil drain. Others have covered this ok. If you take the turbo off do me a favor and take a picture of the turbine side w/o the housing on it. Good luck.

Daniel
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Right now, it's a damned if you do, damned if you don't situation. I can't reclock the turbo because of the way the return nipple is angled. It hits the manifold if I turn it too much. The part that kills me is that the high viscosty of oil that I run, 20W-50, also doesn't flow out of the center cartridge that well due to the thickness. But to rev high, I only trust the thick stuff. If I'd back it off to 5W-30, less oil would get shot out the turbo, but I'd crap myself when I had to rev past 8K.

I'll just throw in s new cartridge, and send the other one in for repairs. AlsoI'll adjust the nipple for the oil return line.

Damn this headache,

Eric
 

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Yeah I would adjust the nipple. 8 o'clock is way too much for a gravity return. That's 60deg off vertical, component of gravity down that tube would be 1/2 of a perfectly vertical one

Is there a chance you need a restrictor for the oil feed as well?

Shiva
 

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cowboy bebop said:
It's a -6 supply and the -10 return. I've been trying to reclock it, but I'd have to take the whole turbo off for that, and it's a real pain in the ass to do. I think if I clock it properly, it'll help out and maybe solve the situation of the oil making it past the seals.

This article helped out in a quick diagnosis. http://www.dieselpage.com/art0898tu.htm

Eric

If you really have a -6 feed line, thats WAY too big, and thats causing smoking. I'd go down to a -3 or a -4.
 

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Corky bell recomends no more then 30 degrees tilt.
 

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cowboy bebop said:
It's a -6 supply and the -10 return. I've been trying to reclock it, but I'd have to take the whole turbo off for that, and it's a real pain in the ass to do. I think if I clock it properly, it'll help out and maybe solve the situation of the oil making it past the seals.

This article helped out in a quick diagnosis. http://www.dieselpage.com/art0898tu.htm

Eric
HOLY FUCK! that is WAAAAAAAAAAAAY too big of a feed line and the drain is TINY compared to the feed.

if your turbo is BB then i guarantee that was your problem, even if its not BB thats too much oil goin in and not enough going out.

use -3 for feed and if your turbo is BB put a restrictor in there. drain should be -12
 

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RussianMKIV said:
HOLY FUCK! that is WAAAAAAAAAAAAY too big of a feed line and the drain is TINY compared to the feed.

if your turbo is BB then i guarantee that was your problem, even if its not BB thats too much oil goin in and not enough going out.

use -3 for feed and if your turbo is BB put a restrictor in there. drain should be -12
-6 line shouldn't be too big of a deal since it has to adapt down to the 1/8 npt adapter fitting anyway... but a -6 straight into the cartridge would be BIG.

sushi
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here's the fix we came up with so far...We took the feed out, and welded the opening shut, then drilled a -4 size hole. Then we clocked the turbo to 12 and 6 o'clock, and finally added a straight through fitting instead of a 45 degree into a 90 degree. It seemed to stop the smoking so far. Now I jsut have to keep an eye on the turbine housing to make sure it seals up totally with the cartridge. It's boosting hard though, but spewing smoke from the crease. It may, however, be residue oil that I know is trapped in the valley on the band.

Eric
 
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