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· Newbie
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm installing just an a/f gauge; GReddy 60mm peak and hold. I was told that this is basically just for "show" and that it shouldn't be used to tune for wot. Is this unit like bad and inaccurate or something?

Any user feedbacks?
 

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is your o2 sensor wideband? if not, you can't tune...

what are you tuning? aem, map-ecu, or just fuel controller? for anything more than a fuel controller, your best bet will be a dyno, not the street. it's very hard to get the right load consistently...

if you do intend to tune on the street, i'd suggest getting a wideband that supports data-logging. it's also very hard to watch minor differences in A/F on a 4th gear pull... (and then remember everything.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Where to mount sensor?

Yea I see your point. I'll be tuning an SAFC2. I figured I'll get a digital camera and record the a/f gauge and the rev on my SAFC2 display. Then slo-mo the replay and watch it :)

But I was just wondering if the GReddy a/f is accurate.

----

Also while we are on this thread. Should I mount the sensor on the vertical section of the dp, or the horizontal part where it meets the midpipe?
 

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what kind of o2 sensor are you using? the gauge can only be as good as the o2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
carendt242 said:
what kind of o2 sensor are you using? the gauge can only be as good as the o2 sensor.
I believe the only one that'll work with the gauge is the GReddy o2 sensor. Well I guess that's the one I'm getting anyways. Would another o2 sensor work with it or something? If so I'll remember it for future reference as I hear you have to replace it constantly.
 

· Republican
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I am also trying to figure this info out.. I belive it's just a 0-1 volt signal..
 

· Stock Twins King
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I owned this kit. It worked for me well enough to tune for open loop. I had been on the dyno at the same time as reading my gauge, and it read pretty much the same as the WB on the dyno. I used to use my digital video camera pointing at the gauge and the tach. after doing some test pulls, I would pull over, replay it while watching both guages and adjust my SAFCII. It worked for me. It is a worthles POS in closed loop. I eventually sold it and went to the FJO. The O2 that comes with the kit is OK. Most people will say this kit is a POS, but in reality, if you set it at the right #, NOT the # the install papers say, it will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh yea, also, are all bung sizes the same? I was reading the forums over at Innovate's forum and they said the bung threading is M18 x 1.5

I was wondering if all bung sizes are the same, or are they Model specific. I'm just wondering because I'm getting a bung welded for my GReddy a/f gauge and was wondering if I can reuse it for when I get the LM1.
 

· Stock Twins King
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All I can remember, and I suggest you test it, is "11" The manual says for turbo cars to set it as "9" If I remember. Do you have the manual? If so, you will understand. It will be obvious when you get the right # vr the wrong #. It won't read right at all untill the right # is set. It has something to do with the calibration of the O2 to the guage unit.

As fas as bung size, I thing they are all the same, I can't remember if they were metric or not. I think I have an extra one laying around, let me know if you want me to check the thread pitch. Although I suggest you post on this, I am sure someone knows this answer.

Stu
 

· Republican
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I have thought of buying one... can someone tell me the voltage output of the sensor? it should be 0-1 volts... can someone confirm this?
 

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Narrow band sensors are good for telling you one of three things. Stoich, Leaner than Stoich, Richer than Stoich. Stoich is great for emissions, nothing more. Narrow band sensors do NOT have closed loop temp control of their elements and will have no pressure compensation. Get a real W/B. Innovative, FJO, and AEM all make them as do about aq dozen others.
 
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