well, is not having a cat worth 8 rwhp? that's what i got...(2.5inch downpipe/no cats).. this was on a mustang dyno too.... so something tells me that if it was measured on a dynojet, i can pull much better gains. this wasnt a "peaky" type of gain, but throughout the entire powerband. and the torque saw similiar gains too, also on the entire powerband.... the results might change if you have a catback designed for the TT though..but that hasnt been tested yet...
i have the stock exhausts and my car is pretty loud as is, so i can only imagine what it will sound like with a cat-back... hope that answered some of your questions.
yeah, the check engine light comes on. for some reason though, when i am idling,below 2k rpm,or let off the gas, it doesnt come on. but i step on it a little, it does though..
i remember in stangs, they have these things called MIL eliminators, which gets rid of the check engine light by tricking the sensor. im going to look into that to get rid of my light, so ill keep you guys informed and see if that'll work.
You cant take out the first cat its part od the downpipe, collector for the nonturbo headers, the second cat can be replaced with A Test Pip Which I have You have to get it made but you will see a couple h.p increase and it will make the exhuast sound deeper. ~Xdreamer
And I havent gotten A check engine light on after removing it does run richer sort off Cause the second cat burns off the extra fuel after the 1st cat.you dont have to ground or do anything the oxygen sensors are on the headers not the cat . You should not have a Problem I havent And have been runing it Like this for months now i put it on the car A couple weeks After i Bought it.
well we got to work on that cat tonight and good lord i thought the wireing harness was a bitch, but its almost all hollowed out and my head bit should be here tomorrow as well so we get to see what kind of damage i did
I cut both cats off of mine and I like it. I have never had the check engine light come on. Both of my O2 sensors are before the cat, and precat. The only thing that I recommend, is that you weld a resonator(one or both of the factory one's) inline. I had to go back and add one to take the rasping sound out. My car runs fine, doesnt run too rich, it dropped the low-end torque, but made up for it with the 3k-4k rpm pull, and the loudass F1 sound
Ok 'm performing m swap over the next two weekends and wanted to make sure I have everything that i am going to need. My question is which fan shroud do i need? I have read some things saying to get the TT upper shroud, but the little helper fan or fans won't work because there is no plug for...
I just got my return fuel system finished up and am having an issue with setting fuel pressure. I ran a Walbro 525 pump with an 8an feed and 6 an return. FuelLab regulator on the return, with a Radium Engineering gauge. All parts high quality. I can't get the gauge to read past 20psi. The car...
I am running a full aristo swap in my is300. I have been using my stock IS ECU and piggybacked for adjustments.
I stumbled across apost that says that I will fry my ecu if I 'm using low impedence injectors. I know that they are 440cc's from an aristo. I also know that my N/A ECU thinks its...
Hi guys (and gals),
Is my understanding correct that the check valve that connects the charcoal canister to that port on the throttle body should only flow into the throttle body and NOT back towards charcoal canister?
Greetings Supraforums Team,
I tried to test my 2JZ-GE charcoal canoster per service manual instructions, but the 43psi “cleaning” method does not work.
It just locks up and does not allow air flow out the bottom port. Lower pressures work fine ~20psi and less.
Do I have this setup...