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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well im wondering about this because this coming winter i will be doing the project and im just kinda wondering. I know the diffrences but people that have one or the other what do you think? to people that bought a supra7MGTE stock this does not apply only to swaps.

NA-T total amount that you spent roughly?

7MGTE swap total roughly?

Thanx for everyone that isnt a ass and seriously awnsers this post.

O yeah i should post that the HP #s im looking for are about 400 nothing big. But has nothing to do with post.
 

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the only good thing about the na-t is the high compression. if you want a very street fun car get forged pistons with a higher compression ratio in a turbo block with oil and cooling mods :)
 

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Nope. Go with the 7MGTE. It has the lower compression pistons and the built in oil squerters. A low milage JDM engine (for about $750) should handle 400hp easily.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
catch2nd said:
you should also consider your mechanical skills.

A simple swap from one motor to another of the same requires less skill then converting a motor to something it is not --- old chineese proverb
I have been working on cars since i was like 10. I think i have the knowledge about cars. Still learning about turbos but hey this is a percect way to learn. So 7MGTE it is.
 

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MnDriver said:
I have been working on cars since i was like 10. I think i have the knowledge about cars. Still learning about turbos but hey this is a percect way to learn. So 7MGTE it is.
If you want to learn the ins and outs of a turbocharged engine, I am sure the 7MGTE will provide you with plenty of oppertunities for practice!
 

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what would the downsides to na pistons in a turbo block be?

^ that statement is based on an assumption the pistions are the same other than the compression ratio?

You'd have all the benifits of the turbo engine cooling system oil system, but the high compression of an NA... right?
 

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MnDriver said:
Well im wondering about this because this coming winter i will be doing the project and im just kinda wondering. I know the diffrences but people that have one or the other what do you think? to people that bought a supra7MGTE stock this does not apply only to swaps.

NA-T total amount that you spent roughly?

7MGTE swap total roughly?

Thanx for everyone that isnt a ass and seriously awnsers this post.

O yeah i should post that the HP #s im looking for are about 400 nothing big. But has nothing to do with post.

7mgte's are cheap. around 1200-1600 will get you a low mileage jdm 7mgte motor, R154 tranny, 7mgte ecu, and 7mgte wiring harness.
 

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justin - i'm going with NA slugs in a GTE block; match that with a CT26 and u get full boost at like 2500rpm or something close to that, i'm going for a very snappy motor, i'm limiting boost to about 15-16psi maybe 18psi since i can add fuel with the MAFt, but i'm hoping for middle/upper 300's when its all done...

before anyone questions my methods please see my mod list here (i copied it from my supra FS thread, so excuse the non-related mods):

- homebuilt 3.5" divorced downpipe (3.5" off of turbine, 1.375" off of WG)
- 3.5" catback (no muffler or cat)
- low mileage CT26 (very very minimal side to side, no in and out play)
- 1JZ IC with 2.5" harpipes from turbo to IC and 3" IC to TB
- tuboXS RFL BOV
- front facing intake w/ 1UZ TB (70mm)
- MAF translator w/ 3" GM MAF (comes with extra MAF)
- flat black sawblades w/ new kumho 711's
- solid motor mounts
- illumina II's w/ intrax springs
- x-drilled slotted rotors
- SS brake lines
- -6AN fuel lines (supply and return, J-tube removed, FPD removed, using stock FPR)
- stock 440cc injectors
- -8AN oil pump modification and pump pressure modification (the one that fluybyux pioneered)
- ARP head studs
- ARP rod bolts
- shot peened/stress relieved rods
- toyota bearings
- new gaskets
- removed EGR
- ported/polished exhaust manifold
- ported/polished CT26 exhaust side
- polished crankshaft
- tanked/rehoned/decked block
- GE pistons (~9.5:1)
- decked head (.017")
- HKS 1.2mm MHG
- new timing belt
- MBC
- HKS FCD
- Greddy EGT/boost gauges
- 6 puc clutch disc
- 1JZ pressure plate

i know what i'm doing :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice thanx for the site the other sites were like 1200 or more plus shipping. now im thinking about getting that. good find.
 

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In my opinion....

an NA-T is best for mid 300hp street car. Thats with mild tuning. after that, it starts costing more and more, because shit starts to break and you need to put a lot more time, money, and energy into carefully tuning your 6-cyl timebomb.

the 7mgte could still be a nice mid-300 hp car as well, but is more readily capable of higher horsepower w/o the huge hassle of expensive tuning equipment, mainly because of the oil squirters, lower compression, and Direct ignition.

I wouldn't say that i regret my na-t project at all. I love figuring out problems and trying to make things work. Even sometimes when i need to ask other for help. I especially love tuning and tinkering around with new tuning software.

So.. to answer your question... Is NA-T better than 7MGTE?

You be the judge. its all based on your goals and needs.

A snappy mid-hp engine... NA-T
A decently high hp engine... 7MGTE
A high hp race engine.... we'll see ;) :lol:
 
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