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Brevity is our fortune...
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I see the RPS twin - triple, the Giken twin- triple but they all have their own flywheels.

I'd like to avoid the chatter and keep the dual mass FW however the only clutch rated to hold and keep the DM FW is the SBC Feramic Stage 4. I have it (full face) and I just fused it to my flywheel on a street launch 0-60... at 24 psi (around 620 rwtq).

It is upsetting especially since I find this is common with this clutch now searching the "internets", and I already had 20k miles on this clutch at BPU+ and plenty of street launches at 400~ rwtq without an issue, I guess I turned up the heat too much.

advice? is it twin or triple and stop whining about the noise time?:eek: I don't want any puck clutches 4 or 6 they suck for street traffic.
 

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HighCompression+Boost=Win
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1,894 Posts
I don't honesty think you are going to find any single disk clutch that is going to hold up to multiple launches over time. I would just bite the bullet and get a RPS CC and call it a day. The chatter isn't all that bad really on the new billet CC.
 

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Oh Snaps
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549 Posts
Why do you have the Feramic disk for a BPU car? That seems pretty overkill and, as you found out, it has the tendency to fuse itself under extreme heat. Have you considered the TZ (Stage 2 if I remember correctly) disk from South Bend?
 

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Brevity is our fortune...
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Why do you have the Feramic disk for a BPU car? That seems pretty overkill and, as you found out, it has the tendency to fuse itself under extreme heat. Have you considered the TZ (Stage 2 if I remember correctly) disk from South Bend?
I am single turbo now. I had it on my BPU knowing I would be upgrading to a more powerful setup. It did fine on the BPU for 20k miles it just didn't like 24 psi on e85 and a 3500k rpm drop.

south bend clutchs have held up really well on a couple of our 700 plus cars
You have to watch launching on them, I make 677 rwtq at 27 psi and I make it low in the rpm range on e85 and my SP QSV. It couldn't take the heat and I know how to launch on this clutch, had it two years without issues. However if you search the internet there are many instances of the feramic fusing to flywheels even in less powerful cars (esp. AWD audis).

Warning do not get a feramic on a 600+ tq car that you want to launch now and again.
 

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Brevity is our fortune...
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't honesty think you are going to find any single disk clutch that is going to hold up to multiple launches over time. I would just bite the bullet and get a RPS CC and call it a day. The chatter isn't all that bad really on the new billet CC.
Is that the Billet Aluminum (light) or the Chormoly/Steel (heavy) flywheel that you would recommend?
 

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Hardtopper
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2,478 Posts
The lightened flywheel chatter honestly isn't that bad at all, IMO. I had a Spec twin disk with a very light aluminum flywheel (don't recall the exact weight) and the chatter when hot was audible, but it's not like it sounded like a coffee can full of bolts being thrown down a flight of stairs. I now have the RPS c/c with the heavy chromoly flywheel and chatter is virtually non-existent. It is still there when hot, but I only hear it when idling in the garage after going for a drive.

I highly recommend the c/c. :)
 

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Brevity is our fortune...
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The lightened flywheel chatter honestly isn't that bad at all, IMO. I had a Spec twin disk with a very light aluminum flywheel (don't recall the exact weight) and the chatter when hot was audible, but it's not like it sounded like a coffee can full of bolts being thrown down a flight of stairs. I now have the RPS c/c with the heavy chromoly flywheel and chatter is virtually non-existent. It is still there when hot, but I only hear it when idling in the garage after going for a drive.

I highly recommend the c/c. :)
Would a lightened flywheel affect my pro-efi tune which was made on a stock flywheel? I'm wondering if I should go with the heavier just to keep my spool-up as well.
 

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Hardtopper
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2,478 Posts
I can't imagine it would have any tangible effect on tuning. It might require minor changes at idle settings, but I really doubt it. If you go with the c/c I would stick with the heavier flywheel. After going from stock, to light Spec, to the heavy RPS (which I think is close to stock weight), I really like the momentum the heavier flywheel carries through the shifts. When you bang gears it feels much more positive. I haven't tried launching with the RPS yet, but due to the grabby nature of carbon I think the lighter flywheel would be significantly more difficult to drive in any sort of traffic. I am very tolerant of unfriendly/harsh engagement clutches and honestly the c/c is pretty unfriendly when it's hot. It's saving grace is you can slip the hell out of it, but the engagement window is very short; there is a very fine amount of movement between being able to smoothly slip the clutch to it being fully engaged. The Spec twin disk was much more forgiving and very easy to slip out through a large amount of travel.
 

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Brevity is our fortune...
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks all, ordered a c/c with the steel heavy flywheel... A 2500$ bill out of the blue.. but at least my problem is my car is making the power I want it to, just needed the right clutch for the job.....


And a BIG FAIL to South Bend, they never called me back when I asked for advice twice (sent to the tech's voicemail both times), waited a week and half too. I was very polite in my voicemail told them I was a customer for two different cars I owned, recommended them to friends and just wanted their advice on the clutch that seized and if they had one to sell me as a replacement. That is a huge let down!!!!
 

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Supra372
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486 Posts
Why dont you consider putting in cams? Instead of the flywheel nosie, you'll hear cams at idle. I have the gsc s2 with the os giken triple disc. It actually sounds good at idle! Im not sure if other cams are aggressive like the gsc's cams at idle.
 

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ex BPU'er
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5,095 Posts
I have a feramic 6 puck and has had no problems. From what I've read, you're not supposed to slip the clutch....
 

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Brevity is our fortune...
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have a feramic 6 puck and has had no problems. From what I've read, you're not supposed to slip the clutch....
Yeah the six pucks don't fuse nearly as easily as the full face. I've had the clutch around 20k miles so I was very used to driving it, I only slipped it in traffic or for low RPM smooth shifts when I had a lady in the car ;) (smooth).

This particular time it was a drop but it was probably pretty hot already from the rolling runs we were doing on the 24-27 boost and e85.

I think the moral is you can get away with lesser parts with workarounds in driving behavior but if you want the full experience you need the right parts for the job. Certainly found the weak link in my new setup :biggrin:
 

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Brevity is our fortune...
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Any break in tips for my c/c?
 

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Brevity is our fortune...
Joined
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
sweet snapped the SBC free with a prybar through the access panel, still going with a c/c (ordered!).
 

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Brevity is our fortune...
Joined
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So the SBC clutch didn't fuse to the flywheel it fused to the pressure plate when we took it out and reviewed it. The clutch is in good shape except for one line where one tiny piece of material came off and bound to the pressure plate making a line across the surface pads.

The clutch shows minimal wear in 20k miles too. Strange...

Went with the c/c with heavy flywheel, it's annoyingly noisy still and rattles when lugged in a high gear cruising, perhaps that settles down? 270 miles on it in break in so far. Also noticed it's much louder running the ac.
 
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