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handy with the steel
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View attachment 251132

The front main seal had been spinning in the pump and was only retained by about 1.5mm around the edge when I found it. The FMS had rubbed a groove into the back of the timing belt pulley nearly 1mm deep. At the time my crankcase ventilation was a 3/4 hose run from one valve cover to the 4" intake just after the pod filter.

:oops: Why was the crank pulley rubbing on the timing cover? It looks like it wasn't on there flush.
 

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I think it was a combination of the FMS leaking oil on the aged plastic and the assembly being pushed towards the dampener by the expanding FMS pushing the timing pulley and belt guide forward. All bolts were in place on the cover, dampener hadn't de-laminated or anything like that.
 

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handy with the steel
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Ah ok, that makes sense.

yeesh man, good thing you caught this.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I was running a GT3582R on a stock block JDM 6 speed car for nearly 10 years, it was only driven two or three times a year typically. It was running around 18psi and I expect the car was pushing around the 400-450rwhp mark, street driven but often hard. When I pulled the motor to perform the 100,000km service I found this... View attachment 251132 View attachment 251133

The front main seal had been spinning in the pump and was only retained by about 1.5mm around the edge when I found it. The FMS had rubbed a groove into the back of the timing belt pulley nearly 1mm deep. At the time my crankcase ventilation was a 3/4 hose run from one valve cover to the 4" intake just after the pod filter. I didn't get compression numbers on the motor as I only intended to be doing the 100,000km service. The condition of the engine now it is disassembled gives me no reason to believe there was excessive blow-by on the rings. I did find the crankcase PCV to be passing air in both directions until I cleaned it out with degreaser.

I've come to understand just how important it is to vent your crankcase effectively if you want to keep your seals in. I dodged a bullet here, and I intend on not being shot at a second time. I'll be running large lines on the two sets of valve covers I've got for each engine build. Both are being disassembled completely (baffles drilled out and drilled and tapped) and having AN bungs welded on to attach them to a catch can. I know this is another thing to add to the expensive list of things to get your Supra back on the road... but I think long term it's a good safe option to make sure your bottom end can breathe when it needs to.

edit: Just found a great video of Mr Grannas performing this on youtube -
Thanks for the video. Adding this to my "to do" list!
 

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Happy that these days the info is so available, glad to share it. I'm in the greasy bits of a 10+year build now myself, the more cool cars on the road the better these days I say :D

Good luck with your build! You're in the right place for good info on Supra/2jz info here :)
 
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