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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i bought a 1990 mkIII non turbo.

and i recently found out that the water pump bolt was broken

so i got a easy out.
and i was in the clear until the easy out bolt snapped inside the bolt.
not really sure what to do the bolt is in there good and the bits in there pretty good.
theres no head to both.

i was told to drill out the easy out with a 7/64" Black Oxide Drill Bit [ http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...-oxide-drill-bit-2-pack/p-1487701-c-10079.htm ]

but drilling it for about 3 hours and i havent made any progress.
not sure what to do really.
 

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Any photos?

Get ready for some drilling! You'll need the hardest bits you can find - Tungsten carbide or Polycrystalline diamond (PCD)

I would start with a small bit, drill a hole and you might get luck and be able to back it out with the bolt, if not step up to the next size bit and continue to widen the hole until you can get a screw driver to help in backing out.

There are a few "Back Out" bolt Tools but the above works as well.

It is seized in any way or just broken off?
 

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not a poopra anymore!
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i think the first thing to do is try and get the ease out-out of the bolt.

im pretty sure that at this point the bolt isnt going anywhere. youll be better off drilling the old bolt all the way through and retapping with a larger bolt.

the only logical tip i can think of to get the ease out would be to use a thin cutting wheel on a dremel (even if you only buy it for this project, youll find it comes in handy for hundreds of things) once you have the slot, get a screw driver and a pair of vice grips on the grip of the screw driver, turn right to pop it out of the hole.

if it doesnt want to budge, spray some pb blaster in and use a torch to heat it up, should pop right out.
 

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Frozen Lake Driver
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If you've been drilling for three hours then your drill bit is dead. From this point your best option is to drill the old fastener out and either heli coil the hole or use a larger fastener.
You could always just replace the timing cover as well but I don't think you wanna go that far haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·




just trying to figure out the best and easy way of doing it.

im sure that it is seized in there.

there is just enough room/no room at all for the dremel.
imma git it a go and see how it goes.


but still looking for more options.

thanks so far everyone.
 

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NO SOUP 4 U
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Getting the extractor out is going to be hard. But it it possible. Extractors are hardened steel. So they have strength to remove old snapped off bolts. But the problem is that alot of the extractors are coming from overseas. High carbon counts in the steel itself makes it brittle.
You have two options.
Take a small chisel and give that broken off section a few wacks. Im not telling you to go downtown with a 3lbs hammer. Just to loosen up its threads a little. Give it a good soaking of PB Blaster over a couple of days. One sure way to make sure that PB Blaster gets in it is give that bolt a couple taps with that pointed chisel and your hammer. Trust me it will help loosen it up. After a couple days a tapping it and soaking it try spinning it counter clock wise with your chisel and hammer.
Or
I see you drilled off center anyhow, so screw that extractor. Drill off to the side of it. Use a REVERSE Drill bit. (Most drill bits cut clock wise. Reverse ones cut counter clockwise.)
Dont use a bit that so small that it too will snap off in the hole. Take your time drilling it. When i have to do extractions...I use cutting oil. Go in a little come back out to let the threads clean off. Back in.... cut a little add some oil.... cut a little more... out for a cleaning. You cant sit there for 10 minutes drilling away. The heat will ruin your bit as well as dull it fast. So... once you get it hole drilled in to it, dont go sticking another extractor in to it. Id go to menards and get a small hand held butane torch. You cant really heat the mating surface of the water pump housing around the bolt. The heat will transfer in to the bolt at the same time. Where you want to heat inside the water pump housing. (look at the circle you made on your pics) heat from 7-10 o'clock. Do it in steps. little bit of heat at a time. Aluminum heats up a little slower. so you are gonna want to let the heat work its way in.
While you are up at menards.... get yourself a can of 3M dust remover. Ya know.... when you spray it.... it gets really cold. Stick the inside of the nozzle in to the hole or right out side the hole. Make it contract. With the housing expanding and the bolt shirking i bet you are able to get it out. Be it a chisle or an extractor. But it its doesnt move that easy... dont snap the extractor off in it again. Ya know what else cools broken studs off? Dr. Scholls wart remover. Give that can a couple activations and touch the end to the snapped bolt. Hopefully the water pump housing has some good heat to it.
Last....
Remove the lower timing gear cover and take it to a machine shop. Have them remove the bolt. Or find a used cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
did hit it with the center punch.

didnt drill off center its just where it snapped off at and the other is the easy out that broke in it.

is taking the timing case off worth the time ?
 

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NO SOUP 4 U
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Well... lets see? If you cant drill it out on the car. That little bolt is gonna cost some more money if you decide to remove the lower timing case cover. So you make the choice... do you want your car to hold coolant or not?
 

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not a poopra anymore!
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i think wedge has a good plan, BUT to use a reverse drill bit, regardless, the old ease out must be removed. also agreed that the bits can be extremely brittle, but such a small bit will be damn near impossible to break up and remove.

ive never seen the back side of a timing/front cover, but it looks like removing that will be your best bet. perhaps youll be able to drill from the back side (clockwise drill bit) and it may press the old bolt out enough to grab with vice grips/weld a nut on the edge. there are litterally hundreds of tips/tricks to removing broken hardware. i wouldnt say anyone here is wrong, but i think the simplest thing to do is remove that front cover from the car and give yourself some elbow room instead of fighting radiator and frame and shit.

in fact, i may have a front cover avail this weekend. the shortblock im buying has one on it already and my old one is still stock (machine surfacing wise) and ill hook ya up, besides, i gotta make up some of the cost of this motor. (anyone want some stock bottom end parts? or a good block that just needs a deck surfacing?)
 
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