You see those diffs on ebay ? ( called obx or something ,) could be worth a shot .

 

You see those diffs on ebay ? ( called obx or something ,) could be worth a shot .

:nono:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4165668&highlight=obx#post4165668

 

ummm not for anything but drjonez posted the crappyness of the jdm torsen a while back.

basically shovel + bucket to pick up what was left.

 

see if you can swap the ring and pinion into the cluch pack lsd.that is if you like the 410 gear

 

Kaaz makes a better clutch based LSD for our cars (the TRD on is a rebadged Kaaz unit)..

if you can get search to work it's on the forums somewhere...

 

My stock diff worked well, and seemed to hold 350-400 rwhp. I'm just not sure how long it will last as it has 150,000 miles on it. I do plan on hitting 500+ hp down the road, so I wish I had the extra $ to slap in a TRD or Kaaz. How streetable are these diffs? Anyone got one?

 

question.. if you get a kazz how are you supposed to set it up with all the diffrent friction plates?

 

IMNSO, there's nothing better than a helical diff.....too bad there's no good option for the A70.

 

funny, I have the a TT-R and haven't had any trouble from my torsen diff yet and I have been far from easy on it. Burnouts, Drag Launching, and Sliding around and its still fine. The trick is to keep both wheels on the ground while power is being applied to them otherwise they break like no ones business.

 

funny, I have the a TT-R and haven't had any trouble from my torsen diff yet and I have been far from easy on it. Burnouts, Drag Launching, and Sliding around and its still fine. The trick is to keep both wheels on the ground while power is being applied to them otherwise they break like no ones business.

perhaps you're lucky?

 

IMNSO, there's nothing better than a helical diff.....too bad there's no good option for the A70.

Was there any shear there or was it a straight up brittle failure?

 

i'm pretty sure it was started by a fracture. that's the problem w/the thhe T1, no tolerance for shock loading.

 

perhaps you're lucky?

possibly, the car has 89,xxx kms on it right now and I don't think it was driven hard at all while it was in japan before being shipped over here. At any rate if the torsen goes out I'm going with a Kaaz unit as those are amazing upgrades for stock.

 

I thought I was lucky too, after it worked great drag racing, autocrossing, and hard launching all the time. It just started failing at random after 6 months. I looked inside it too before I installed it. It was a tight, mint, JDM unit with around 50,000 miles. I'm assuming that I stripped off some teeth on the helical gears since I could still drive on it but it had HUGE slack.

 

i'm pretty sure it was started by a fracture. that's the problem w/the thhe T1, no tolerance for shock loading.

Wow. That is pretty wild. I guess I have been lucky with mine so far. If it was a fatigure failure you should be able to see a noticable difference in the fracture surface with a fine lined structure in the fatigue region and a coarse 'ripped apart' region in the area when it failed completely through the remaining cross section in an abrupt fashion. If the fracture surface is not too screwed up you might even be able to find an 'initiation site'... possibly a bad spot or material defect. If it was a tensile overload (failed all at once) the surface would look about the same everywhere. Likely spot would be on the OD of the housing just above the ring gear seating surface.

I had never really thought about this before, but it looks like the T1 housing is a casting with features machined into it for the helical diff gears. Castings can have small defects randomly dispersed throughout the part. Somebody mentioned being 'lucky', and that may very well be the case. Higher loads and a poorly placed material defect is probably all it takes to initiate failure. If you get a 'good' casting you may never run into trouble.

I've been running mine at 330 RWHP for quite some time now. I guess the real test will be when I finally get my motor project finished and up it to around 450.

I guess I will be keeping the 4.56 open diff around just in case... That's great... Just what I need... another reason to have more 7M parts laying around my house.

 

I have a 4.30 LSD the best one for the money i ride it hard burn out the most solid factory mkiii rear diff out there haves over 200,000 miles on it! and running strong.

 

Wow. That is pretty wild. I guess I have been lucky with mine so far. If it was a fatigure failure you should be able to see a noticable difference in the fracture surface with a fine lined structure in the fatigue region and a coarse 'ripped apart' region in the area when it failed completely through the remaining cross section in an abrupt fashion. If the fracture surface is not too screwed up you might even be able to find an 'initiation site'... possibly a bad spot or material defect. If it was a tensile overload (failed all at once) the surface would look about the same everywhere. Likely spot would be on the OD of the housing just above the ring gear seating surface.

from what I can see it is a completely brittle break (tensile overload). there are the distinctive river marks, indicating the direction the break propagated. It is unlikely you'd get a good idea of the initiation site unless you threw it under an SEM or at least a good stereomicroscope. Either way, the material used was too brittle. If the metal was the least bit ductile, you would have distinct ductile tearing around the initiation site with a chance of some fatigue damage, not a complete brittle rupture.

 

maybe the heat treating is wrong? also, a lot of people don't realize you have to break in a rear-end properly with heat cycles, that could cause issues in the metal as well...

Would be nice to figure out a way to make them better instead of just breaking them and then getting another one...

 

lol this sucks so bad they want 400+ for them on ebay just because it is a jdm rear diff lol those 4.10's are junk. i heard about any diff is better then them and you cant replace the clutch in them. pinion all the way!

 

I think they just couldn't make it any bigger and have it fit the A70 diff case without completely redesigning the case, like they did with the MKIV which are WAY stronger. If you look at a TruTrac diff you can see there are 4 pairs of worm gears compared to the T1's 3, plus the overall beefening of the unit. I think a custom TruTrac install is the only real way to get a reliable Torsen into a Mk3. Argh!!! $$$$$

 

maybe the heat treating is wrong? also, a lot of people don't realize you have to break in a rear-end properly with heat cycles, that could cause issues in the metal as well...

Would be nice to figure out a way to make them better instead of just breaking them and then getting another one...

how hot does a differential get? Unless the rear end is getting close to red hot for an extended period of time (think several hours) nothing will happen. "Break-in" does not constitute in-situ heat treatment.

 

I think they just couldn't make it any bigger and have it fit the A70 diff case without completely redesigning the case, like they did with the MKIV which are WAY stronger. If you look at a TruTrac diff you can see there are 4 pairs of worm gears compared to the T1's 3, plus the overall beefening of the unit. I think a custom TruTrac install is the only real way to get a reliable Torsen into a Mk3. Argh!!! $$$$$

yes and no. the MKIV T-2 isn't that much bigger @ all, i have pix somewhere.

and yeah, the only way we're getting a (good) helical diff is a custom app....<sigh>...

 

yes and no. the MKIV T-2 isn't that much bigger @ all, i have pix somewhere.

and yeah, the only way we're getting a (good) helical diff is a custom app....<sigh>...

I will pay to have the busted pieces of your torsen sent down here if you still have them and have no use for them. I would like to take a look at it and try and figure out how/where it failed. I might even be able to take it into work and have my MR2 buddy that works in the materials lab take a look at it on the SEM if it fits. It looks like the problem might be with the housing configuration. If that is the case there might be a way help hold it together a little better.

What ratios have the guys that are busting these things running? I swapped in my 3.73 gears, so I'm probably running at 10% less torque than the 4.1's.

I guess I have been to busy working on my CT12 upgrade... I totally missed the OBX debacle LOL. Any time gears are involved somebody should hunt me down if I'm not paying attention. I like to try and get some use out of my MS from Ohio State whenever I get a chance... gears don't come up too much on jet engines.

 

OHIO STATE??!!??? nooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

j/k.

yea, np on sending you thhe trashed stuff.......only thing is i'd like it back (i keep a collection of fragged parts...yea, i'm a nerd). how about we each pay shipping 1 way? it shouldn't be too much since you're just in cincy. i'm curious about the results as well.....

the torsen i killed was a factory 3.91.

 

You are all so wrong! I have video evidence that supports the fact that the Toyota T1 is the strongest diff made, stronger than any 9", 10 bolt, whatever.. This baby is made to take abuse!

http://www.1jzpower.com/lsd.wmv