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ƒ=1/2π(√k/m)
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10,143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's all the little things that piss me off. :(

PS belt needed replacing, so that's no big deal...

So you need to pull every belt to get to it, so that's no big deal...

Take out the lower IC pipes, and fiddle around with that 14mm pivot bolt and lower the PS pump.

Wohoo! all the hard stuff is done now... go to put the alternator's tensioning bolt back it... twist twist.. snap.

DAMN IT!

So now I need to get an EZ out to get the broken bolt out. :(


All those little things... really piss me off.
 

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Supra Fan
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4,114 Posts
i got a spare alternator tensioner arm if you need it.
 

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It might run right......?
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1,492 Posts
well ur motor is till together and in ur car so u cant have tooo much to complain about dont worry man will get it fixed up else u knows i gots an alt for ya
 

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ƒ=1/2π(√k/m)
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10,143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's just a bolt... CJ said he probably had one.

But my MSD stuff came in tonight, so I was buttoning it all back up when this crap happened.

I need to get an EZ out for the altenator, and just get the little bit out. :(
I sorta knew it was gonna happen. :lol:
 

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I tell you what i went through 3 weeks of hell just to do a basic brake job with new pads and steal braided lines. After it was all said and done i had all new pads, all new hard brake lines throughout the whole car from toyota, all new braided lines and all new bleeder screws. I broke 2 of the bleeder screws when i finally realized i should replace them all with new ones. I guess this is what we get when dealing with older cars. But what the hell i still love them.
 

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I snapped the same screw on my alt. I got lucky though, there was still enough sticking out for me to use a cutoff wheel and make a slot for a screwdriver... came right out. Damn, was I freakin' though.
 

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I hear yah on the brakes, next time I do em, I'm replacing every caliper (with bracket), rotor, and rubber lines...

How about snapping the bolt that holds the heatshield on the turbo....or is that just me...
 

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Always playing catch up
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1,632 Posts
AGlobalThreat said:
um no :1poke:

best one so far for me is when i was doing repairs for the first time after i got mine, was doing the t-stat, and putting back toghter (you know, those 2 screws that go into the housing....)

"hm. wonder how tight these need to be"

SNAP!

"[email protected]#$&*&@#$&#@$!*#"

luckily i had some spares from rx7 parts so it all worked out, snapped the other one too just to be sure lol

its just a fact of life with these cars

<l><l>
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
brent, was the bolt binding up as you threaded it in? or are the threads pretty smooth and clean in the alt?

if its smooth and clean and the bolt would normally just thread in and out w/o resistance, pull the alt off the car. you can do a few things... use a dremel to cut a slot in the bolt shank if its flush, and use a flat head to back/thread it thru the open bolt hole. the other thing ive been hit and miss with, is drilling. sometimes i can drill into the bolt, and sometimes before the bit punches thru, it snags on the flash and the bolt threads all the way thru w/ the rotation of the bit... just make sure the bit doesnt wander and start drilling the threads of the alternator.

btw, the lockdown bolt on the alternator bolt is takes no torque. i wouldnt put more than 30 lb/ft on it... its only an 8mm x 1.5 thread i think. doesnt even seem to have a grade on it... i usually run it down till it bottoms out, then like 1/8 turn, no more than a 1/4 turn EVER on little guys like that. lol
 

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90T
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861 Posts
Bolts typically break when they are overtorqued. Toyota does not supply torque specs for a lot of the 7M bolts, but you can use the standard values in Appendix B of the TSRM for most of the unspecified ones.

For the lowest class M8-1.25 the spec is only 9ft-lbs. Most of the engine bolts are better than 4T, but even for a 6T the spec is only 14 ft-lbs

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/b/B_3.html
 

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ƒ=1/2π(√k/m)
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10,143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This just in!

EZ Outs aren't indestructible. Either that, or I'm just too strong to work on any car. :(

Snapped the top off of an EZ out bit... so now I just drilled the whole SOB out of there.

And I'll run a 10mm tap and get a whole new bolt.
 

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FIX-R upper
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Next time use a box end! sux.. i know haw it feels, and if you did use a boxend well then im scared to fiddle with my alt now.
 

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Man that sucks Brent. Ive broke one before too but not working on the supra.
 

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MK3Brent said:
This just in!

EZ Outs aren't indestructible. Either that, or I'm just too strong to work on any car. :(

Snapped the top off of an EZ out bit... so now I just drilled the whole SOB out of there.

And I'll run a 10mm tap and get a whole new bolt.
EZ outs break with me too! I can't stand that :wtflol:
I broke the top bolt off inside the thermostat housing last time I bad it apart, so since I will be replacing EVERY bolt I remove.


Same with hose clamps, gah I hate spring clamps! I also replace every clamp I have to take off :rofl:
 

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I know what you mean . Last week while upgrading my turbo I had to take the studs out of the manifold to install longer ones for the spacer.the fisrt three came out fine number4 was a different story. using the proper stud removal tool . SNAP!!!. drill it out , can't get drill lined up proper , take manifold off , hard stud , soft cast manifold , drill wanders , hole off center and into casting, redrill oversize, install helicoil , reinstall manifold , 3hrs later i'm back to installing turbo. Don,t you just love it. It's still better than working on a Honda
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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yeah, Ez outs are VERY brittle... my friend reuben breaks them all the time. hwoever, he is a HUGE motherfucker, he could be a stand-in for Vin Diesel. in fact, we call him Torretto. hes broken them off and then tried to drillt hem out. theres no way you are drilling into HSS with an HSS drill bit... especially if the surrounding metal is aluminum.

here is a little trick i do... since i know that i have a tendancy to overtorque bolts... working on cars for the past 10 years will definitly build up your hand, wrist and forearm strength more than you know. and before you realize it, youre overtorquing EVERYTHING. with SMALL bolts like 6mm and 8mm bolts... (anything that takes 10mm or 12mm sockets) i only use ONE hand! for bolts/nuts that use 10mm sockets, i use ONE HAND with the 1/4" drive rachet. if i use the 10mm on the 3/8" drive ratchet, it gives me too much leverage. on bolts that take 12mm sockets, i put them on the 3/8" ratchet and use the same "Feeling" or effort that the 10mm bolts require with the 1/4" ratchet. its definitly an acquired sense... but ive got it down now. i havent sheared a bolt due to overtorquing in ages!
 

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ƒ=1/2π(√k/m)
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10,143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My exact words to these guys.

"You fellas have an EZ out for this EZ out?"
 

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90T
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861 Posts
I think a wise man once said there are only two kinds of EZ-outs... those that are going to break, and those that are broken. :bigthumb:
 
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