Those RMS ratings don't mean they'll "pull" too many watts from the amp. Speakers are rated like tires; just because you buy Z rated tires that can function at 180 mph doesn't mean that you will actually drive at 180 mph or that your car can even do it, it just means that your tires, like your speakers, can handle it. The 10w6 can "handle" 600 watts but I assure you your old ES amp wasn't doing that, and 250 JL Audio watts is plenty.
The amps you have been looking at will all do fine. Again, in this ~$200 price range, don't look at the numbers so much. Pick an amp that is around the size constraints you have, and looks like a nice, or even cool, amp to you. Kicker, Alpine, JL, Audison... these are all established, well-respected amplifier manufacturers and will work fine in your application, unless you think that you need more power because your old system lacked overall loudness. The only caveat I have to this is because of the difference in front vs. rear watts in that JL amp, JL clearly wants your sound to be front biased. If you are not used to this, and don't like it, you will think that your overall volume has decreased. I would say your overall sound quality has decreased if you can hear your back speakers (again, I don't even have back speakers), but that's my bias.
If your old amp pushed your speakers to a sound level you enjoyed, these new amps you're checking out will do at least as well and I will argue will probably do better. Unlike loudness, which necessitates lots of watts (and current draw) when it comes to sound quality, as most audiophiles will admit, the first watt is the most important. So think again- where does your volume control rest at when you drive? And what type of music do you listen to? If you think you lack power now, then go multi-amp, but be ready to pay.