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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Amp died so looking for another, and my head is spinning over all the choices. First of all, do I get two amps or one 5 channel. Which one do I get ? I have jl's 5 1/4 comp in front with tweets, Focal's 6.5 165 v2's in rear, and a 10w6v2 in a fiberglass box in the hatch. Thanks..
 

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Hi Eden, how is the intake looking?

Before I make some vague and general comments, let me ask. I know you had a 5-channel in there already, what's the reasoning you've got for going to a different multi-amp configuration? Is it looks, or did someone tell you it's an upgrade in terms of sound quality or power and you want to explore that? Or are you just looking for something different? Let us know why you ask the question and then we can be more specific.

On to vague and general!

(+) Stick with 5-channel:
1. KISS rule- You've already got the car wired that way so it's literally a drop-in
2. $- Sounds like you can do the labor either yourself or have access to free labor to unscrew the old and drop in the new amp
3. You get to choose from a lot of great 5-channel amps out there

(-) 5-channel:
1. You feel you lack power
2. You want different
3. 2 amps may look cooler than 1?

(+) Multi-amp:
1. This is semi-debateable since I don't know your listening habits (are you a "volume at 3" person like me, or a "is there an 11 on this thing?" person) or your listening preferences (you can usually tell by choice of sub but 10w6 people can swing either big bass or sound quality), but multiple amplifiers can give you big power, especially to your sub
2. Sound quality- again debateable but it has been suggested that since big bass notes suck current, this leaves less power for your mids/ highs. Again this is a "depends on you" question
3. It can look really cool

(-) Multi-amp:
1. $, $$ or even $$$$- You have to buy 2 or more amps, you have to buy distribution blocks, and depending on your newfound power, you may have to redo existing wiring, plus consider "The Big 3" factory rewiring
2. Less space in our already laughably small trunk
3. $, $$ or even $$$$- for a new install

I think there are plenty of great 5-channel amps out there that 95% of the people on here would be more than happy with. FWIW I have 5 speakers in my car... er, actually in my garage. 2 tweets, 2 mids, 1 sub. And I have 5 different amps, an amp for each one. But that's just me. And the wiring mess, signal processing headaches, etc. are making the system a real PITA. So my opinion may not be the best on this subject.

But answer the first couple of questions on here and it will give us a better idea of where you're coming from, now that you have the opportunity to do something different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My intake is do great ...Thanks, for your eply.
1) Amp died, no longer works
2) I like sound quality, not a real loud thumper, but do listen to all types of music.
3) Don't have access to free labor, so I better stick with a 5 channel.
4) I don't care about looking cool, my amp is dropped in the hatch on a amp rack and barley visble.
5) Really want quality sound, but the Sub rating seems to be the problem as far as powering it and not over powering the mids and highs.

Thanks again for your help, so I guess im looking for a quality 5 channel.
 

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Just on eBay alone, and not having browsed my favorite car audio used sites, I found quite a few 5-channel amps with built-in crossovers, and I picked one that also had remote bass level control, which is nice since then you can tailor the amount of bass you get to your liking, on the fly.

$130 Crunch amp with bass control
$220 Kicker amp from an authorized dealer, looks like a refurb
$450 JL audio
$500 Memphis Belle
$740 Phoenix Gold Roadster 66

So you have a lot of good options. I know you are coming from a Sony ES amp and the knock on Sony, and Japanese amps in general, has always been great sound, no power. These days every amp is so overrated that even reputable names have had to sell their souls to the marketing devil and do the same thing. That's partly why I'm going back and refurbing 11 amps that are over 15 years old, and picking out the 5 best matched ones for my system.

So it's at this point more a budget and aesthetics thing- check out eBay, look at the 5-channel and 6-channel amps that are available, and then come back and let us know which ones you like the looks and price of.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks so much for your help, do you have any model #'s, and how do you feel about referb Kicker, as I saw that one as well, but wasn't sure the sub power was enough. KICKER ZX700.5 CAR STEREO 700 WATT 5CH AMPLIFIER AMP. Liked the price..
 

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There's an Audison on there for a little more that just screams Sound Quality. I've never been a fan of Kicker but that's a personal thing based on emotion rather than actual fact, and you know you will get a boatload of power out of it. If you feel comfortable buying refurb I'd go for it, I bought 90% of my stuff used myself.

Go with something you like the looks of and has a decent RMS power rating on the sub channel. You may also look to see if the Kicker has the ability to add a bass control on it, which of course you can also do from your deck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here are the specs on the jl 5/500
Front Channels:100 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm(11V-14.5V) Rear Channels:25 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm(11V-14.5V) Subwoofer Channel:250 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm(11V-14.5V) THD at Rated Power:<0.03% @ 4 ohm (F&R),<0.05% @ 4 ohm (Sub) S/N Ratio (F&R):>108.5 dB below rated power S/N Ratio (Sub):>95 dB below rated power Frequency Response (front and rear):5 Hz-30 KHz (+0, -1dB) Frequency Response (sub channel):5 Hz-500 Hz (+0, -1dB) Damping Factor (front and rear):>200 @ 4 ohm/50 Hz Damping Factor (sub channel):>500 @ 4 ohm/50 Hz Input Range:switchable from 200mV-2V RMSto 800mV-8V RMS Dimensions:19.7"L x 9.25"W x 2.36"H


The rear only have 25 and the sup 250.
 

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I would put a JL Audio amp's 250 watts up against a lesser quality amp's 600 watt rating. Don't be married to the raw numbers, you'll have to take into account the engineering that went behind the production. If you feel you need more power than the ES gave you the JL is probably a step up. If you feel you need more power than that, than yes, I would say you will have to consider the multi-amp route.

Also, I like that the rear channels are less power than the fronts, but again I am one of the front stage/ rear fill advocates on this forum, so yes I am biased. This is a good amp for the money but if you feel you need more power, a 5-channel is not the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just don't want to burn out my amp. The focals 165 v2 and I think the need 70 rms , and the jl 10 w6 is 600 rms, if you think it will be okay I'll get it.

What do you think of this one :

Directed D2205 Class A/B 5 channels
 

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Those RMS ratings don't mean they'll "pull" too many watts from the amp. Speakers are rated like tires; just because you buy Z rated tires that can function at 180 mph doesn't mean that you will actually drive at 180 mph or that your car can even do it, it just means that your tires, like your speakers, can handle it. The 10w6 can "handle" 600 watts but I assure you your old ES amp wasn't doing that, and 250 JL Audio watts is plenty.

The amps you have been looking at will all do fine. Again, in this ~$200 price range, don't look at the numbers so much. Pick an amp that is around the size constraints you have, and looks like a nice, or even cool, amp to you. Kicker, Alpine, JL, Audison... these are all established, well-respected amplifier manufacturers and will work fine in your application, unless you think that you need more power because your old system lacked overall loudness. The only caveat I have to this is because of the difference in front vs. rear watts in that JL amp, JL clearly wants your sound to be front biased. If you are not used to this, and don't like it, you will think that your overall volume has decreased. I would say your overall sound quality has decreased if you can hear your back speakers (again, I don't even have back speakers), but that's my bias.

If your old amp pushed your speakers to a sound level you enjoyed, these new amps you're checking out will do at least as well and I will argue will probably do better. Unlike loudness, which necessitates lots of watts (and current draw) when it comes to sound quality, as most audiophiles will admit, the first watt is the most important. So think again- where does your volume control rest at when you drive? And what type of music do you listen to? If you think you lack power now, then go multi-amp, but be ready to pay.
 
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