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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody. I just finished on this Friday my trasnission swap from auto to 6 speed. to my 1996 supra turbo I put everything NEW, from Champion Toyota (jeff watson) and an RPS carbon carbon Chromoly flywheel. Anybody who wants to do it and need a hint can write to me. I did it by myself with a friend

I have a couple of questions that I can't answer myself because in my country there are no more supras.

- First strange thing.... The isolation of the outside noise is poor compared when my car was automatic... specialy in the zone of the gearbox and starter.

Now the starter sounds louder inside the car when I crank the engine... even with the clutch pressed to avoid noise coming from the gearbox. The cranking sound is much louder inside.
I have checked and recheched if there is any hole on the subtunnel, or something like that... but nope. I also but all the rubber isolators from the shiffter as any other stock supra.
Does anybody konw if the automatic supra is really more isolated than the 6 speed?


- Second... the gearbox sounds a LOT. I know that when an aftermarket flywheel is used insted of the stock dual mass flywheel the gearbox starts rattleing at idel.. bla bla.... but my question is the folowing: Is it ok the transmission sounds even most of the time when you are driving??? (when I say sound, I mean gear noise, not harmonic sound) in my case it sounds until 2300 RPM, above that the sounds stops. But under 2300 RPM it makes a lot of nois, on every gear 1, 2 ,3 ....6
It also makes lots of noise when you lower the gear (from 4th to 3rd at high speed)
I ask this question because I bought the chromoly flywheel which they told is not noisy as the aluminium, but in my case there is a lot of noise.

Could it be someting bad inside the transmission (even though it is sopoused to be new)
The transmission came full of oil, I also bought the 2 quarts of V160 oil, but I haven't put it since it allready has new oil in it.

- Another issue, I switched to the 6speed tach, wich doesn't have the PRNDL indicators. Well.. I installed it and it has 400 RPM of positive offset (my RPM cut whent up to 7200 RPM with the new tach) is that offset consider in the range of normal offset????

The rest is ok, the car feels great, the clutch incredable. How much brake in should I give to it?

Andres
 

· Stock Twins King
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I am not a tranny expert at all, but I know that a good break in is about 500 miles. As far as the noise, I have a LW flywheel, and when the car gets hot, it starts to make noise at or around 1500 or less. I have never encountered noises you speak of.

As far as tach being off, I am wondering if the speed sensor needs to be changed? I am sure that the new 6sp came with one attached? Another stupid question is whether you need a new ECU? Are you running the same ECU as when you were an auto?
 

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500 miles should be a good fair brake in. the tranny doesnt realy need to be broken in IMO. the clutch however should be for at least 500 miles.

my rps flywheel chatters like crazy.
 

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how many hours did that swap take? and Is it worth it?
 

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Did you put the 6spd trans tunnel in the car, or did you leave the auto tunnel in it??
If you left the auto tunnel in it, then that is the cause of all of your excessive noise. I just got done doing my auto to 6spd swap, and I did NOT put the 6spd tunnel in it, and I have the same noises as you do. The reason it makes so much noise is because the 6spd trans is now actually touching the trans tunnel which it should'nt, and its "grounding" out on the tunnel. So now I have to put the 6spd tunnel in it. If you did put the 6spd tunnel in it, then I would check and see if somehow the tanny is still touching the tunnel somewhere.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks tim for your answer. I did put the 6 speed tunnel, I put everything that is needed new except the ECU. Well I have been saying to my mechanic (my friend) that I think something is touching... as you say... but he doesn't want to take the transmition out. Tomorow we will check with mirrors and flashlights. We are also going to put Dynamat isolator, do you know it? it is used on audio equipment to avoid vibrations, and they developed a special Dynamat for the engine (firewall and the hood) to isolate the cabin. I' going to put that one after checking nothing is touching. But I did put the 6 speed tunnel and I think nothing should be touching up there

In relation to the ECU I can answer to Sto that I'm still using the auto ECU. THe strange thing is that I read a lot during these years and people kept saying that the Auto Ecu would close the buterfly during shiftings and retard the ignition. But my ECU doesn't do it anymore since it is 6 speed. I have done many tests and it doesn't do it. it only turns the Check engine light on.
The speed sensor is well conected to the new transmission.

I would like more opinion on the transmission NOISE!!!
Andres
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I bought an almost new supra in 2000 straight from Japan.

I thought my box was F**ed as it wined in the low down gears, but it was just because it was so new. It went after 2000 miles and its not missed a heartbeat since.

If you are getting a wine I would not worry.. If the noise is not CONSTANT and sporadic Id say something is touching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thakyou for your answer... what do you exactly mean by a wine??? My noise is constant until the RPM goes over 2300 and the noise goes away. But the noise is in all gears. It is just you can hear it better in lower gears, but it is in all gears.

Andres
 

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Wine as in ... a constant noise at low RPM..

If it goes above 2.5 K i would not worry about it too much as you are used to an auto box.. beleive me my box makes some interesting noises.

:rolleyes:
 

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ive recently done this swap myself too and do not have any of the noises you speak of. i fitted a hks twin plate with lightened fly, and raised the idle to around 1100rpm. i did put fresh v160 in before i installed the box though.
 

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HI Andres

This is interesting reading for me as I'm about to do this conversion.

I've driven a couple of 6 speeds and have noticed that they are marginally noisier than my auto but not in the way you are describing.

I think all your hearing is normal mechanical noise that has not been totally isolated from the cabin.

Mechanical noise can be transmitted easily into the cabin through the tinyest gap such as an unpluged hole or poorly fitting rubber grommet or gear lever boot.

I have just been through a similar exercise restoring an old 260Z Datsun and was amaized at how much noise I eliminated by thoroughly sealing holes in the firewall and improving sound proofing around the gear lever.

I don't think this is your problem but it is possible to get noise transfer via cables from the engine that touch the chassis so it may be worth checking the isolation of throttle cables etc.

I'm sure you've seen this before but it may be worth another look.

Cheers

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/auto_to_6spd_swap/index.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Something else!!! I noticed my trap speed went down 5 mph looking at the spedo... I was really anoyed until I test it with gps and realized that it changed 4.5 mph the spedometer indication. Before I had test it with a gps also, same tires. at 120 mph the actual speed was 118, before the trany swap, now it is 122.5.. I didn't change the spedometer, I sopouse that the speed sensor from the new transmission is not exactly the same number of pulses.
Has anybody noticed this???????
Andres
 

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Andres

I am so used to my rps CC with heavy flywheel that I couldn`t tell the other night trough msn.

But depending on the tranny/car temp I have some normal solid flywheel/getrag noise up to 2500 or so rpms, so its is normal

Try to isolate the car more. It will help a bit, but you will have to live with it now.

I started first with a fidanza lightweight flywheel, and man, that`s noisy!! I was then so happy with chromoly rps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thakyou... I did put yesterday some Dynamat isolator in the firewall between the gerbox and the car body and subtunnel. I put the Dynamat "hoodliner" it improved the isolation on about -3db I would say... the car is streetable.
but the Starter still sound much louder than before... I sopouse it might be because the resonance of the flywheel, wich autos don't have.

Does anybody know what happened to me with the speedometer??? with the new gearbox the speed changed 2,5% down, with the same tires. I did put the manual diff also, so the speed sensor should be exactly compensated from factory, shouldn't it?

Andres
 

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Did you change the rear end of the car when you went from auto to manual? The auto has a 3.769 and the manual has a 3.133. The speedometer gear in the transmission assumes that you have the manual rear end ratio. I had to get a 'yellow box' to correct the speedometer error.

My tranmission whines in the low gears/high rpms (1st and 2nd) but goes away at higher gears.
 

· I Can Has EBT?
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Did you change the rear end of the car when you went from auto to manual? The auto has a 3.769 and the manual has a 3.133. The speedometer gear in the transmission assumes that you have the manual rear end ratio. I had to get a 'yellow box' to correct the speedometer error.
He is correct. And if you use a custom driveshaft to mate your 6speed to auto rear, the driveshaft can give you a noice/vibration if it is not balanced correctly.
 

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WhiteSupra said:
Thanks tim for your answer. I did put the 6 speed tunnel, I put everything that is needed new except the ECU. Well I have been saying to my mechanic (my friend) that I think something is touching... as you say... but he doesn't want to take the transmition out. Tomorow we will check with mirrors and flashlights. We are also going to put Dynamat isolator, do you know it? it is used on audio equipment to avoid vibrations, and they developed a special Dynamat for the engine (firewall and the hood) to isolate the cabin. I' going to put that one after checking nothing is touching. But I did put the 6 speed tunnel and I think nothing should be touching up there

In relation to the ECU I can answer to Sto that I'm still using the auto ECU. THe strange thing is that I read a lot during these years and people kept saying that the Auto Ecu would close the buterfly during shiftings and retard the ignition. But my ECU doesn't do it anymore since it is 6 speed. I have done many tests and it doesn't do it. it only turns the Check engine light on.
The speed sensor is well conected to the new transmission.

I would like more opinion on the transmission NOISE!!!
Andres
I
Hola Andres yo vivo en Puerto Rico y por aca no hay muchos Supras tan poco.
I should recommend you PM David ([email protected]). He did this same swap about a year ago. It took him and a friend about 3 days to complete the set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok guys, I sopouse you did not read my first post, it says I put everything new, of course I did change the rear diff to the manual, otherwise the speedometer error would be at least 3.76/3.13 % that is more than 20%, I'm talking about 2.5% from before the swap
One question, what is your top speed in 4th when you hit fuel cut with facotry ECU (6800 RPM fuel cut). Mine is 120 mph exact in the speedometer. If you could tell me that number it would be easyer for me

Andres
 
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