[ATLSUPDAWG#2]

I know there were a couple of guys here that were constructing this kit and I wanted to know how your outcome was. Was the web construction page cut and dry or did you guys have to do a few things different? Also if you've completed it please post your opinions.
Thanks,
--B--

 

[sidwin]

It is a lot of work. I have a friend with a PHD in engineering putting mine together. 10 hrs of work plus 4 hrs to make the display. I used bullet connectors and t-connectors. The bullet connectors are for the wideband o2 sensor. Make sure you have all the parts. Mine was missing a Diode and resistor. Also check your display for the right part number. Email me when you are done so we can compare and contrast. Make sure you tap a wire in pin 7 on the con3 for the display to work.

 

[ATLSUPDAWG#2]

sidwin,
Thanks for the heads up. I just got a chance to kinda dig into all the parts and browse through the material. I'll definetly be on the look out for those parts as to whether they're missing or not and also I'll make a note of the connection for the display. I'm sure it'll take me a while before I have it all together, but I'll be glad to e-mail you and "swap notes". If you or your friend come up with anything worth noting please e-mail me as well. [email protected]
Thanks again,
--B--

 

[Guest]

the 1st board took 6hrs, then 3 for the second, then 2 for the last.
I had the wrong value resistors for r32, and r11 I think, had to buy those. I still need a case for these boards...
then the first display took 10 hrs from start to finish, and thats with calibrating it, I still have 2 more to do. not fun at all.
we will be testing these this weekend on a single T Supra.
Good luck all
$$ If anyone needs help putting the DIY together...email me
[email protected]
H.

 

[Kevin Hoare]

I just ordered mine last night. Hopefully it works well.

 

[Guest]

What about the FJO kit? comes with everything except the sensor bung (I believe). Data logging capability also.

 

[BLKMGK]

FJO..

I thought the FJO was just the heater kit, no sensor? I've heard prices in the $300 range for that unit bu tif it's sans sensor and display it's pricey. My WB is being put together by a friend of mine - he's had a few choice words too concenring the directions etc. It certainly doesn't sound like something for the novice! Hopefully it'll work out but if it doesn't I'll be crying for help I figure it's worth a shot considering the cost and if the FJO kit is "complete" I'd be VERY interested i hearing about it!

 

[Kevin Hoare]

Has anyone got their's together yet and tried it?

 

[sidwin]

My kit is assembled and looks like it is working properly. I bought a box from radio shack. Go there and look at the hand held radio's section and you will see what I am talking about. I will be putting the home made next to the wideband of a dynojet to see.

 

[Kevin Hoare]

My kit is assembled and looks like it is working properly. I bought a box from radio shack. Go there and look at the hand held radio's section and you will see what I am talking about. I will be putting the home made next to the wideband of a dynojet to see.

Perfect! Let us know how it goes.

 

[Ubermensch]

Do you guys plan on running this in your cars full time, or just on tuning runs. I've always wanted to do this but the short lifetime of the sensor concerned me.

 

[Kevin Hoare]

Do you guys plan on running this in your cars full time, or just on tuning runs. I've always wanted to do this but the short lifetime of the sensor concerned me.

I don't put that many miles on my car to begin with, so I just may end up putting it in there permenantly. The sensors are really expensive anyways. We'll see how it works out.

 

[BLKMGK]

Really expensive?!

Umm, these are using OEM Honda sensors out of STREET cars. Short lifetime Umm no, I think they will work just fine for MANY miles. How long does the O2 sensor last in a regualr Honda? As for cost - $117 for a WB sensor really isn't that bad all things considered is it? So long as the heater box is hooked to them the sensor should last just fine. The Techedge setup isn't one of those finicky lab quality setups or one of those horribly expensive Motec units. Supposedly the $300 Motec sensor is the SAME Honda sensor with the calibration resistor removed\moved from the connector

 

[Kevin Hoare]

Anyone test their's out yet? I'm still waiting to receive the kit.

Kevin.

 

[Boost Junkie]

Re: FJO..

The FJO kit is complete with datalogging software and all hardware ready to go. It's an easy install and works beautifully. E-mail me if you are interested in buying one.

Steve
[email protected]

I thought the FJO was just the heater kit, no sensor? I've heard prices in the $300 range for that unit bu tif it's sans sensor and display it's pricey. My WB is being put together by a friend of mine - he's had a few choice words too concenring the directions etc. It certainly doesn't sound like something for the novice! Hopefully it'll work out but if it doesn't I'll be crying for help I figure it's worth a shot considering the cost and if the FJO kit is "complete" I'd be VERY interested i hearing about it!

 

[sidwin]

Hey everyone,

We finally put the finishing touches on the wideband. Thanks to Rich and his side kick Mong-Ping. We did make some major discoveries. One of which is that the sensor takes a lot of juice to make it work. At idle, my pcb board would not light up. This was at night with my lights on and my volts reading 12.7. If I would disconnect the sensor, the board would start working again. I was getting the power and ground wire from my HKS AFR. When i would go for a drive or if the voltage was above 13.2 everything would come alive. I am thinking about running a power wire all the way to my circuit box and use the heater seats slot and that should give me enough juice. The display that you make is okay but the A/F display is not the fastest to react vs my good ole Fluke 77. I would suggest tuning with a Fluke and using the graph from techedge's website but use the homemade display for everyday driving.

Sid

 

[ATLSUPDAWG#2]

sidwin,
Thanks for the update. I had one problem with my display in that when it was powered to do the new calibration procedure, some of my displays wouldn't work, nor would the LED light bar. The sh** pissed me off to no end trying to figure out what I did wrong. I reviewed and compared the schematics with my board and everything was correct. I made a few cosmetic touches to my soldering job to make sure I had everything in there solid but still no luck. With a nice little e-mail from Peter (one the guys involved in the design), he told me to check all the pin sockets where the 2 boards connect and sure enough one of the sockets is screwed. That's what I get for trying to connect the two boards with a "vise"

Now on to your situation, I remember reading in the schematics that the voltage regulator (LM317) has a high drop out thus requiring more voltage to run. It said that the power from your battery alone was not enough but the supply voltage from the cars altenator (13.2 - 14.4 volts) would be sufficient. It says that you can swap the LM317 for a low drop out 1086 regulator but it "MAY" and I mean "MAY" shut down due to the thermal overload. I used the LM317 in mine, but now that you've come back with a report I may try the 1086 next.
--B--

 

[sidwin]

Hey B,

Well the heat seater fuse works fine. The fuse is a 15 amp fuse so the unit is loving it. Becareful the heat sink. That gets very very hot. I might end up having to put an on off switch on mine. I don't think all that heat is good for regular driving. It can seriously burn you.

Sid

 

[ATLSUPDAWG#2]

sidwin,
Sounds like your unit is working pretty smooth. I wasn't quite sure just how hot that heat sink would get. Are you using a case for your unit and if so what kind? I was thinking of fabricating a nice aluminum one with a 7-pin cannon plug for connecting the O2 sensor and a 3-pin cannon plug for connecting the display.

 

[turbotoy]

Are you considering using a switch to turn off the heater circuit while the engine is still running and the sensor is installed?? If so, you will destroy the sensor very quickly. The sensor must remain heated at all times the engine is running. For this same reason only positive locking connectors should be utilized for the heater board to sensor connection.