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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a 90 Turbo. Somehow the plug on the harness for the knock sensor got pulled off the wire. I would have soldered it back on, or something, but now the plug has disappeared into the depths of my garage somewhere too. Can you get a plug? Eliminate the knock sensors? Will it just work with one knock sensor?
 

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Toyota part # 82219-89103

It will run in 'fail safe' mode until it's fixed (Code 52). This means pulled timing and extra rich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Toyota part # 82219-89103

It will run in 'fail safe' mode until it's fixed (Code 52). This means pulled timing and extra rich.
Dude, you're gettin a big non-**** man hug. I fought with the Toyota dealer today for two hours while they tried to sell me all kinds of wrong shit. Then, they tried to tell me the only way to get the plug was to buy the whole knock sensor for $250. They even made calls to double check and called me back.
 

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They charge $250 for a knock sensor? Seriously? I just bought Shaeff's knock sensor re-wiring kit hopefully I don't need an entire knock sensor ( mine was off ).
 

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Toyota Knock Sensor - 89615-30020

And don't use the NAPA/Autozone/crap ones when Jay Marks/Champion (one of this sites 'vendors') sells the thing for $160.76.

OEM for $160.76 vs China crap from Autozone for $196. You do the math.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213747

BTW, always try the rewire first as that's it 90% of the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay, I hadn't heard anything about this "re-wire" until tonight. Essentially, I got the plug, cut off the obvious end, and soldered it onto the bare wire from where the old plug was. It still runs like shit and still throws a code 52. I started reading and found these re-wire instructions. What I didn't find is why? What are the issues? Why won't what I did work? Thanks
 

· 91TT comin up, 01 s2k
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should have ran to a local junkyard and pick one up for about $15-$30. And knock sensor from the older 4 Runner and cressida and 7mge all work the same. And if the code still come on, guess you have to run two wires straight to the ecu......
 

· 91TT comin up, 01 s2k
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the knock sensors wires are pretty cheap, and sensitive. My did the same thing so me and my buddy had to run wires from the knock sensor straight to the ecu. The code went away and now the car runs great.


Okay, I hadn't heard anything about this "re-wire" until tonight. Essentially, I got the plug, cut off the obvious end, and soldered it onto the bare wire from where the old plug was. It still runs like shit and still throws a code 52. I started reading and found these re-wire instructions. What I didn't find is why? What are the issues? Why won't what I did work? Thanks
 

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http://oldschool.supracentral.com/htm/knock.htm

Basically just 20+ year old wiring. Like the starter rewire, replacing grounds, CPS rewire...

I just grabbed a spool of 14g twisted pair shielded from RadioShack for $10 and the new plugs from Toyota (and then had to order a sensor because the rear one had cracked).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Does anyone know if they're saying to use RG-58 just because it's shielded? If you used shielded TP I think I'd rather do that since I've already got about 5000 ft of it. We haven't used RG-58 in years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Or maybe not. It seems the RG-58 I picked up was solid core. I think the stranded is actually RG-58 A/U or C/U. I can't remember now, it's been 15 years since I've used thin-net. Anyone know if I can use the solid core stuff? If not, I guess I have to wait.
 

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Does anyone know if they're saying to use RG-58 just because it's shielded? If you used shielded TP I think I'd rather do that since I've already got about 5000 ft of it. We haven't used RG-58 in years.
If you've got shielded TP with a jacket that will stand up to engine bay temps than go for it.
 
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