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Black95TT
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I just wondered how you could detect when you have knock so you know how far you can push non-stock turbos. Is there a sensor? Can you hear it? What does it sound like?
I use that same one as well. Some modifications:pwpanas said:Fwiw, here's a link to an external knock sensor that I'm using with my Haltech
Where is this exactly?AnArKey said:This will allow you to screw it in on the passenger side of the block with ease.
I built an adapter to replace the adapter that came with the kit. I bought a nut at a hardware store the proper size so that the knock sensor itself would screw into it. I had that nut welded to the top of a short 10x1.25 bolt.AnArKey said:Knock sensor needs to be turned on a lathe and given 10x1.25mm thread. This will allow you to screw it in on the passenger side of the block with ease. The thread it comes with (1/4 NPT) won't go anywhere.
AnArKey said:
I use that same one as well. Some modifications:
Knock sensor needs to be turned on a lathe and given 10x1.25mm thread. This will allow you to screw it in on the passenger side of the block with ease. The thread it comes with (1/4 NPT) won't go anywhere.
Take it apart and paint it black. Mount right on top of steering column. The white is ugly inside a Supra interior.
About 3/4 toward the rear, 1/2 way up. Pretty easy to find if you have a single. Harder if you still have stock twins. Try looking from underneath if you do.Hboostn97TT said:Derek: Yeah, where did you mount it on the block, any pics?
That would be great.
AnArKey said:
About 3/4 toward the rear, 1/2 way up. Pretty easy to find if you have a single. Harder if you still have stock twins. Try looking from underneath if you do.
Again, just get the right size nut welded to the head of the right size bolt, and scrap the adapter that came with the MSD Knock Alert. Finding a shop that can weld a nut to the head of a bolt will be far easier than finding a shop that can do metric threads on a lathe.Spool said:And, how do you change the threads again on a lathe? Where should I go and how should I explain what I need done on the sensor?
pwpanas said:
I was able to use one of the oem knock sensor locations (driver's side of the engine) because the Haltech doesn't have a knock sensor input. ?
And using the stock knocks sensors by monitoring timing advance would be easier still. I understand you have a Haltech and its a stand-alone, but I'm willing to bet the stock sensors designed for the motor would work better for stock ECU cars.pwpanas said:
Again, just get the right size nut welded to the head of the right size bolt, and scrap the adapter that came with the MSD Knock Alert. Finding a shop that can weld a nut to the head of a bolt will be far easier than finding a shop that can do metric threads on a lathe.
Grant said:
IMO, the best OBDII datalogger is www.pocketlogger.com Its designed for DSMs, and logs everything a laptop version can. I've seen people mount their Palms for easy reading while racing. although once tuned you shouldn't have to look at it. Only problem is its not available for our car's interface, VPW. They said they were thinking about it. So email them and bug them till they make one![]()
Haltech offers the similar benefits to all other standalone engine managmenet solutions...you configure the timing, fuel, and other parameters in the ecu that is managing your car directly, via laptop. There are no piggyback devices (VPC, AFC, ITC, etc.) that go between the oem ecu and your engine. Tuning is typically more stable, and with proper tuning spoolup can be quicker and more power is possible than with the oem ecu.Spool said:What benefits in performance does the Haltech offer?
Only when I try to run too much boost on pump gas (which is never now that I know where the edge is). The msd knock alert has a sensitivity setting, so you can tell when the engine experiences the very faint beginnings of knocking, (so you can back off quickly before the knock is serious).
Also, are you experiencing knocking?
Anything over about 23psi on pump gas will start to activate the knock sensor on my configuration - my ignition and timing curves are set up for race gas. If I tuned specifically for pump gas, I'm sure a bit more boost is possible.
If so, what boost levels?
Again, just know where to set the boost controller when running pump gas. The knock alert was very valuable in finding this point.
If not, what tuning have you done to eliminate knock?
Thanks!
Looks like it's strong from your numbers!
I'm still building the car - I haven't done 1/4's yet. Although I'm building the car more for roadracing than for the 1/4, I'll probably run the 1/4 just for fun someday fairly soon. Here's some more info on my car (it needs updating - I need to re-dyno since I've put my hks-triple clutch in:
Do you have a website with your mods, 1/4 times/ dynos? Tell us about your turbo kit?