I was wondering if anyone had the weights for all the lightweight rods on the market. I'm trying to get the lightest of the lightweight rods and I've searched for hours on end and I can't find any weights on the rods. Thanks
The BME rod is the lightest one at 425 grams but it is an aluminum rod and the Carillo rod is probably the best steel rod for the Supra is an H beam design. The Eagle rod is a very similiar design to the Carillo but it is made in China, don't know about the quality control on that one. Carillo makes an even lighter rod in an A beam that isn't quite as strong but should be strong enough to support around 900 horsepower, maybe even more (plus it is cheaper than the H beam).
I guess you guys have never been in the Chrysler plant. My uncle use to work for them but quit. The reason he quit was because of quality of the parts that were being produced. He has since joined back up with a Japan based manufacturer. The tolerances on parts in Japan/China are much better than those in the states.
Back to the rods. I think I'm going to go with the Eagles. They are lighter than stock and are also only $550 which is half of any others.
The bolts used on the Eagle rods are very crappy. I would definitely upgrade them. On the 4 strokes of the engine the weakest link on the rod isn't the rod itself. Its the bolts.
On the compression stroke, the cylinder pressure is holding the upper half of the rod onto the crank while the bolts are holding the cap onto the rod.
On the power stroke, the explosion pressure is holding the rod onto the crank while the bolts are holding the cap on. (really here the bolts really aren't ven doing anything because the rotational inertia is holding the cap as well.)
On the exhaust stroke, the rotational inertia of the crank is used to excavate the spent gasses. The rod is forced upwards in the cylinder and the bolts are holding the cap on.
On the intake stroke, there is a lot of vacuum atop the piston and crancase pressure below. The difference is enough to put a lot of stress on the lower end. Even having the lightest stuff can't help you that much since the pressure change is the bigger problem. Adding a scavenging pump to the crankcase can help reduce this significantly. But most importantly, as the crank continues to spin the rod bolts (only two of them) play an extremely important role in keeping the engine together. If they come apart here the cap will fall off and the next spin (we are talking micro secs here) the rod will jamb in the side of the block and the complete mass goes to shit. All your work is ruined not even the crank can be saved. RPMs can play a very important role here so can rod ratio since the lower the rod ratio the higher the piston speed and the rod angle so if you are planning on spinning the engine a lot of revs simply bite the bullet and buy the expensive stuff.
HKS,greddy,carillo, saenz, pauter are the tops of my list and don't forget the pistons either most off the shelf forged pistons are still cast on the underside (I don't understand why the hell they call it forged. This is probably the reason to purchase the Powerhouse JE pistons rather than the shelf JE pistons)
I hope this information help you decide on what will work for your application. BTW, no manufacturer can gaurantee how many revs you can spin. Your research will be your only gaurantee.
Well I'm not going to have anymore power than the stock TT. I'm going all motor with the GE so I'm thinking the Eagle H Beams will be perfect for me. I'm getting my crank lightened, lightweight crank pulley from BL, and then lightweight rods.
And his ex. is exactly why you should never used aluminum rods in anything but a drag car. Rod bolts in aluminum rods just don't hold up to engine braking forces that happen in most of the other venues, including the street.
For you app, the eagles will probably do just fine... but I'd also go with upgrading the rod bolts to some ARP (which is an option w/eagle anyway) I think it's just a little extra...
I'm planning on a 9K redline. I know that alot of domestic's run the Eagle's and have no problem with them. I've also heard of Nascar running them. I'll have ARP throughout the motor, so no worries there.
I have been doing some research on buildin an "all motor" 1UZ-FE and I ran into some very interesting facts in the process. First off if you want to learn something on what is required to build a strong motor check out this article on pro stock motors. http://www.theoldone.com/archive/pro-stock-racing-engine.htm
The author is obviously the man and knows pretty much EVERYTHING there is to know about car motors. He also mentioned high revving motors are the hardest to build. Albeit I dont think you have to worry too much about a 9k rpm redline on our motor it has a Square design 86 bore x 86 stroke. Albeit oversquare is more ideal ie. more bore then stroke.
Also if your really serious I wouldnt look at Nascar for a high revving low displacement motor I would look more in the areas of circuit racing and F1/Indy car technology. Only problem here is these guys are VERY secretive about the technology of their motors and its very hard to find any info on it. Perhaps try looking for the AE111 motor too as it is an old Toyota 4AGE tuned to be pretty damn mean in NA form.
Think I'm going to end up going with Carillo Rods. They seem to be the choice of the guys here in Texas and I know that SW ran then I believe and also Boost Logic and Performance Motorsports suggest them. They aren't bad in price, I'm sure they will hold up to 9K.
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