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Inline for the win
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I have searched the system and MKIV.com and yet to come up with an exact answer.

Can someone provide me with the exact items that can safely be removed for proper operation of single turbo setup?

I am looking for removal and modification items such as the heater hoses.

This type of list should be a sticky once it can be compiled.

DP
 

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Agree'd, would be a great thread for us going single soon. If there is allready one out, please post the link as I havnt searched as Im not ready as of yet to go single. Thanks
 

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I thought there was some writeup that gave info on this. Anyway, here are a few things that I remember:
Large coolant lines near firewall on passenger side need to be connected with a rubber hose
Vacuum lines near large coolant pipes need capping
Extra oil feed needs plugging on block
Coolant lines coming from near water pump need to be plugged or connected
Need breather on air tube for idle control motor
Need breather on passenger PCV

Edit: Did you check this link out? http://www.supras.nl/view.php?page=modsSP57kit.htm Its very helpful and lists basicaly everything that I did and more.
 
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You can also remove all coolant hard/soft lines on the drivers side of the engine, starting from the Throttle Body coolant lines, down to Oil Cooler lines, and back around the block to the top of the Downpipe where you would cap off the coolant. I've also removed oil cooler: http://www.derekdevises.com/ (Oiling Bypass)

All VSVs
IAC (if you dont mind holding gas pedal down for few seconds on cold startups)
EGR
TRAC butterfly
 

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Trac butterly might not be a great idea for us auto guys... at least the ones on the stock tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All of your posts above is what needs to be compiled to let 1st time single changeover people to know what is required to stay and what can be removed.

The link to the SP57 install is great, but I don't believe shows or lists what you can safely remove with the single install.

My main focus is on the coolant lines, additional oil lines and other vacuum sources that need to be rerouted or capped off.

DP
 

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Pressure tank
Charcoal Canister
Trac Pump and Trac Actuator ( if you do trac butterfly )
All those left over steel lines on the firewall ( or modded to use as vacuum sources )
 

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HOSES AND VACUUM LINES TO BE REMOVED:
1. Original h2o coolant lines to stock twins (2) they are located on the aluminum 90 degree elbow that the upper radiator hose connects to. Take the time to take it off and have both nipples removed and tig welded shut.

2.Remove the pressure tank under the intake manifold and all vacuum lines to it you do not need to worry about the wiring plugs that hook up to the tank just tape them up and they will not cause a check engine light.

3. Remove the EGR that is mounted to the back of the intake manifold and the sensor mounted on TOP off the manifold next to the EGR. There is a plug that goes to the Metal EGR sensor that you will need to install a 10k resistor in (wiring harness side) this will clear the code and keep your check engine light off. Pay attention to what vacuum lines feed the EGR items and you will see what needs to be capped or plugged off.**NOTE** you may want to purchase the EGR block off plates for the mod. This mod does NOT have to be done but it makes things cleaner and gets rid of extra vacuum lines and most importantly it stops hot exhaust from recirculating into the intake a causing lean conditions in the #5 and #6 cylinders. After you get the EGR off you will see 3 vacuum nipples sticking out the back of the manifold you will use these for future vacuum sources. (ex. I used one for the BOV, wastegate, and fuel pressure regulator)

ORIGINAL OIL FEED LINES TO STOCK TWINS
4. I Used the original bolt that holds the REAR turbo feed line to the block and put approx. 3 copper washers on the bolt then a big nut then 3 more copper washers to plug off the rear turbo feed line that you will not be using anymore. For the FRONT feed I did the same washer/nut setup but I drilled a hole in the center of the bolt head and tapped it to an 1/8" pipe thread so I could use an 1/8" pipe to -4 line to feed my single turbo.

COOLANT LINE RELOCATION
5. I would not relocate anything until the car is running and you see what obviously can be done. I would never take off the oil cooler unless your car is used for drag racing only. Just block off the 2 nipples on upper radiator hose elbow as listed above.

OIL RETURN PIPE IN OIL PAN
6. I simply took it off the pan and welded a -10 male fitting in it which you will connect with a hose to the bottom return of your new turbo.

***NOTE FOR OBDII CARS*** you will need to put resistors on the vsv connections to keep from throwing codes. Sorry but you will need to do a search for pics, locations, resistor size and tips

THIS IS MOST OF THE INFO YOU WILL NEED AND AS YOU START INTO THE PROJECT THINGS WILL MAKE MORE SENSE

Hope this help a little for some of you beginners

Good luck,

Jason
 

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1slow93turbo said:
HOSES AND VACUUM LINES TO BE REMOVED:
1. Original h2o coolant lines to stock twins (2) they are located on the aluminum 90 degree elbow that the upper radiator hose connects to. Take the time to take it off and have both nipples removed and tig welded shut.


Since this is a very permanent mod, I would make sure you really want to do this before doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
1slow93turbo said:
HOSES AND VACUUM LINES TO BE REMOVED:
1. Original h2o coolant lines to stock twins (2) they are located on the aluminum 90 degree elbow that the upper radiator hose connects to. Take the time to take it off and have both nipples removed and tig welded shut.

2.Remove the pressure tank under the intake manifold and all vacuum lines to it you do not need to worry about the wiring plugs that hook up to the tank just tape them up and they will not cause a check engine light.

3. Remove the EGR that is mounted to the back of the intake manifold and the sensor mounted on TOP off the manifold next to the EGR. There is a plug that goes to the Metal EGR sensor that you will need to install a 10k resistor in (wiring harness side) this will clear the code and keep your check engine light off. Pay attention to what vacuum lines feed the EGR items and you will see what needs to be capped or plugged off.**NOTE** you may want to purchase the EGR block off plates for the mod. This mod does NOT have to be done but it makes things cleaner and gets rid of extra vacuum lines and most importantly it stops hot exhaust from recirculating into the intake a causing lean conditions in the #5 and #6 cylinders. After you get the EGR off you will see 3 vacuum nipples sticking out the back of the manifold you will use these for future vacuum sources. (ex. I used one for the BOV, wastegate, and fuel pressure regulator)

ORIGINAL OIL FEED LINES TO STOCK TWINS
4. I Used the original bolt that holds the REAR turbo feed line to the block and put approx. 3 copper washers on the bolt then a big nut then 3 more copper washers to plug off the rear turbo feed line that you will not be using anymore. For the FRONT feed I did the same washer/nut setup but I drilled a hole in the center of the bolt head and tapped it to an 1/8" pipe thread so I could use an 1/8" pipe to -4 line to feed my single turbo.

COOLANT LINE RELOCATION
5. I would not relocate anything until the car is running and you see what obviously can be done. I would never take off the oil cooler unless your car is used for drag racing only. Just block off the 2 nipples on upper radiator hose elbow as listed above.

OIL RETURN PIPE IN OIL PAN
6. I simply took it off the pan and welded a -10 male fitting in it which you will connect with a hose to the bottom return of your new turbo.

***NOTE FOR OBDII CARS*** you will need to put resistors on the vsv connections to keep from throwing codes. Sorry but you will need to do a search for pics, locations, resistor size and tips

THIS IS MOST OF THE INFO YOU WILL NEED AND AS YOU START INTO THE PROJECT THINGS WILL MAKE MORE SENSE

Hope this help a little for some of you beginners

Good luck,

Jason
Jason,

Thank your for a response to exactly in regards to the issue I wanted to know about.

Good luck with your new ride.

DP
 
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