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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Its very hard to search reasons why people have problems reving past a certain rpm. You cant search rev or rpm on here because of the length of the words. I know theres alot of reasons but I want to be able to check over everything. If you had a problem and fixed it, tell what the problem was and the solution. Just keep it short and sweet. Thanks

Reasons I know.....

Map sensor
Ecu
tps
timing
fuel pressure

anybody have any weird ones???

My rpm will go to 4000 rpm and bounce back and forth. I try and drive it and no power. Struggles to move and hardly any response from the gas pedal. It revs to 4000 rpm in neutral normaly but once I drive it, it cant find any power. Any ideas? knock sensors? Timing?

New.... ignitor, coil packs, caps in blitz ecu,

tried 2 different map sensors
 

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Maybe list some of the things you've ruled out...

If you've had the timing belt off for any reason, re-check you have the proper crank to cam timing.

Is it sputtering at all? Might have a weak spark under load?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maybe list some of the things you've ruled out...

If you've had the timing belt off for any reason, re-check you have the proper crank to cam timing.

Is it sputtering at all? Might have a weak spark under load?
I rebuilt the whole motor. Why doesnt the 1jz have any timing marks for the cam gears? I've been trying to rule out the timing but no marks
 

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NGK6097..... I think thats the number.The popular copper ones everyone is running. They are gapped at .025. No boost leak. brand new coil packs.
This is probably not your problem, but it's not helping things at all... you should be running NGK BKR7EIX (2667) plugs gapped at .028

I rebuilt the whole motor. Why doesnt the 1jz have any timing marks for the cam gears? I've been trying to rule out the timing but no marks
You must FIND the marks grasshopper...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This is probably not your problem, but it's not helping things at all... you should be running NGK BKR7EIX (2667) plugs gapped at .028
Yup, those are the plugs I have.


You must FIND the marks grasshopper...
There arent any marks on the timing back cover for the cams is what I meant. I see them on the 2jz in the tsrm but not on the 1jz
 

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PM TRD87T and ask him specifically what he did. As I mentioned in the SM thread, he traied everything (as I had0 and it ended up being a fuel system issue that was solved by removing/bypassing the 1J dampner. He can tell you the details.
 

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Yup, those are the plugs I have.

There arent any marks on the timing back cover for the cams is what I meant. I see them on the 2jz in the tsrm but not on the 1jz
From what I have "read" the timing marks are supposed to be the same between the 1J and 2J... But definitely verify this.

Fuel starvation is a strong possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have sard 650's, dm ss fuel line, walbro 255lph fp, and emanage blue to control the fuel. My wideband seems to be acting a little wacky so I'll check into that.

Could a slow/lazy factory 02 sensor to the ecu cause a problem like this?

When I was trying to get it started in the begining it kept runing very very rich. I dont know if that fouled up the O2 sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, found out what it was the timing!!!! Runs like a dream now!!!. Ive waited 2 1/2years to drive this thing. I couldnt have done it without you guys. Headache after headache with this thing and somehow it all feels worth it. Now, instead of looking for solutions on here, hopefully I can give some now. Thanks to everyone.
 

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OK, found out what it was the timing!!!! Runs like a dream now!!!. Ive waited 2 1/2years to drive this thing. I couldnt have done it without you guys. Headache after headache with this thing and somehow it all feels worth it. Now, instead of looking for solutions on here, hopefully I can give some now. Thanks to everyone.
Did the timing marks turn out to be the same as the 2J?
 

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I'm 90% sure that this will fix your problem......

Replace your 1jz alternator with a 2jz, add a few more ground cables to the engine and body.

Your voltage will read 12.5-14 volts when idle and normal driving but at full throtle the voltage will drop to 11.x volts when the miss/studder starts.

I did some test on my 6.5k miss/studder and found that at 6.5k rpm the Voltage that the ECU recieve is only 11 volts. I rewire my fuel pump to draw power directly from the battery. Did more test and the miss/studder went to 7k rpm with the voltage jumping to 11.3. I replace my 1jz alternator with a 2jz ones and now at full throtle voltage shows 13.5 with no miss/studder.

A friend of mine is also expeirience miss/studder at 4krpm with head lights on and at 5k with head lights off. Which also shows the voltage on his car had drop to 11.2 when the miss/studder starts.

Am also believe that this is what is causing all those CAPs in the ECU to blow/explode. The ECU is drawing more than it is provided. Now if you got a brand new battery you will not experience this issue, but you will eventually get to that point went the battery gets drained.


Hope this help some of you out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
This makes alot of sense because I was testing my battery voltage when I hit the gas and it did seem to drop down alot. Wasnt sure what the exact cause was but this sounds pretty plausible.

I'm 90% sure that this will fix your problem......

Replace your 1jz alternator with a 2jz, add a few more ground cables to the engine and body.

Your voltage will read 12.5-14 volts when idle and normal driving but at full throtle the voltage will drop to 11.x volts when the miss/studder starts.

I did some test on my 6.5k miss/studder and found that at 6.5k rpm the Voltage that the ECU recieve is only 11 volts. I rewire my fuel pump to draw power directly from the battery. Did more test and the miss/studder went to 7k rpm with the voltage jumping to 11.3. I replace my 1jz alternator with a 2jz ones and now at full throtle voltage shows 13.5 with no miss/studder.

A friend of mine is also expeirience miss/studder at 4krpm with head lights on and at 5k with head lights off. Which also shows the voltage on his car had drop to 11.2 when the miss/studder starts.

Am also believe that this is what is causing all those CAPs in the ECU to blow/explode. The ECU is drawing more than it is provided. Now if you got a brand new battery you will not experience this issue, but you will eventually get to that point went the battery gets drained.


Hope this help some of you out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm 90% sure that this will fix your problem......

Replace your 1jz alternator with a 2jz, add a few more ground cables to the engine and body.

Your voltage will read 12.5-14 volts when idle and normal driving but at full throtle the voltage will drop to 11.x volts when the miss/studder starts.

I did some test on my 6.5k miss/studder and found that at 6.5k rpm the Voltage that the ECU recieve is only 11 volts. I rewire my fuel pump to draw power directly from the battery. Did more test and the miss/studder went to 7k rpm with the voltage jumping to 11.3. I replace my 1jz alternator with a 2jz ones and now at full throtle voltage shows 13.5 with no miss/studder.

A friend of mine is also expeirience miss/studder at 4krpm with head lights on and at 5k with head lights off. Which also shows the voltage on his car had drop to 11.2 when the miss/studder starts.

Am also believe that this is what is causing all those CAPs in the ECU to blow/explode. The ECU is drawing more than it is provided. Now if you got a brand new battery you will not experience this issue, but you will eventually get to that point went the battery gets drained.


Hope this help some of you out there.

OK, I did what you said. I already had the new alternator and battery but I only had a few grounds. I added alot more and it did rev far above the 4000rpm mark it was stopping at!! I'm not sure how much because I'm still breaking in the engine. But thanks for the great advise!!!
 
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