[Mr Ree NZ]

The tender may not be "needed" in order for the bikes to start each day, but as you have already stated, they are currently not lasting long enough.

All Im suggesting is that if they were connected to tenders, they wouldnt be having the short life span that you are experiencing.

 

[TripleD]

Took these 10min ago in its current state (putting together white hardtop still). In addition, pic of it in my red targa with a quick bracket I made. The Genius charger charges up any battery pretty quick, lithium or non-lithium.

I use a Genius as well, works awesome!!!! Never had an issue. It is plugged in anytime the Supra is sitting in the garage. I fed the wires down under the headlight, so I don't have to pop hood to hook it up.

 

[airhead04]

The tender may not be "needed" in order for the bikes to start each day, but as you have already stated, they are currently not lasting long enough.

All Im suggesting is that if they were connected to tenders, they wouldnt be having the short life span that you are experiencing.

A tender should not be needed for a battery that sits for only 12 hours a day. And used the other 12.

 

[SlackJawOutlaw]

Aside from the motorcycle issue. Have any of you with the dead batteries measured drain, alternator voltage, and battery voltage?
The PC680 is a motorcycle battery, so it isnt meant to be able to run the amount of components many cars on here have, or anywhere else for that matter. They are not strong by any means. Simply lighter, not too expensive, and reliable (for me at least). I also do recommend any of the Deka offerings. You can find the ETX16L for like $80 shipped and that has been bulletproof so far and the car sees a tender in awkward intervals (5 months no, 2 days yes, 1 year no, etc). Battery still juicy.
Weight is 17lbs and it is the Braille 2317 pattern so I use the 2317 mount.
I am going to dig in to see if Odyssey has changed any manufacturing processes

Also are any of you guys doing an install charge? I was always taught to put AGM batteries on a tender until they are fully charged before full use. I cant see that is the reason they last so long as that would be fallible reasoning, buy its a good habit. They always come undervolted

 

[elijahcole92]

I've been running the ETX18l for the past few years. I believe i've gone through 3 maybe 4 since 2013 and currently looking for a new/better solution. I have mine mounted in the right rear corner for weight, and have a 225amp circuit breaker mounted beside it, then running 0 gauge all the way up to the fuse box/starter. I keep them on a smart tender but even after sitting on the trailer for a night after a drag event the car doesn't want to start and often flips the breaker. Anyone have any advice?

 

[stockred03]

I use a Genius as well, works awesome!!!! Never had an issue. It is plugged in anytime the Supra is sitting in the garage. I fed the wires down under the headlight, so I don't have to pop hood to hook it up.

Yeah it's been the best charger I've used as well. Extremely user friendly and comes with multiple wire attachments. Nifty setup for charge you got there.

 

[Gary Hooper]

I am using a BRAILLE with the tender made by the same company. The battery is not Lithium, I believe it is called MAT glass construction. It is 1/3 the weight of the OEM battery, around 21 lbs. It gives 625 CCA and if the tender is kept on it, seems to last well. I have had mine in use (summers) for two years and just kept the tender on during the winter when the car is stored. A Lithium would be lighter again, however the cost is much higher.

 

[HotSoup]

Bump.....4 years later, suggestions.

 

[MKIVBOUDY]

Running a Braile Lithium Ion. Maintained stock battery location and was able to use a Plazmaman manifold with big piping and not have to cut my fender at all

 

[1A1]

I'm running a 5lb Anti Gravity Battery in the Supra now. I replaced my Odyssey PC 925 with it. It fits perfect in the Odyssey battery tray, you just flip the AG battery sideways.

ATX30 Lithium Motorsports Battery

Hi-Power lightweight ATX30-RS lithium motorcycle/powersports battery with RE-START Technology (built-in jump-starting). Replace lead/acid YTX30. 880 CA!

antigravitybatteries.com

The PC 925 was 26lbs. This is 5lbs so a nice weight savings. I'm also running an ATX 30 HD model in my GSF. The HD model has more cca and more reserve power since the GS-F has so many more modern accessories and puts more of a load on the battery. The HD model weighs slightly more at 8lbs. I do use a lithium charger/tender on the Supra as it is not driven much, but don't on the GSF. No issues at all on either car.

I don't think there is a better way to save weight dollar/lb spent than going with one of these lightweight batteries.

Steve

 

[HotSoup]

I'm at the point to where I'm either going lithium or just doing a trunk relocation and full size. Where my battery currently is the only thing that will fit will be a pc680 size. Once again, my pc680 I replaced died and won't take a charge. I left the cable on over the winter and killed it. Is it my fault this time....yes, but it literally was brand new never used. I've had 5 of these batteries since I've owned my car and this was the last.

It's going to cost around the same to relocate to the rear so this is why I'm torn on this subject. Should I give the lithium a shot or go tried and true, no issue full size lead acid?

 

[GMonster]

I run an Amazon special TCB worth 14B-4 LFP (lithium iron phosphate) battery. 3.3 lbs, 480 CCA 8AH battery in the stock location. They’re only ~$200 CAD. I run ut in the stock location as it provides a lot of room, enough for a meth nozzzle in the IC piping there and a coolant expansion tank. IMO there’s no point relocating a battery this small as the weight in battery cable would equate to the weight of the new battery.
Battery lasts over a week stored and connected, haven’t had it go flat yet. Cranks faster than the old lead-acid battery, and has a built-in voltage gauge.

 

[1A1]

Measure your space and I can see if the ATX-30 will fit there. Mine is in the trunk in my car, but it can work under the hood as that is where it is with the GS-F. The bracket you'll need measures 5 in W X 6.5 in L X 7.5 in H. I could move mine to the front and run it in front of the fuse box in the stock location as I am running a PHR radiator overflow and there is plenty of room in the stock location. I may actually move it back up there this winter to reduce the cabling I have on the car.

Steve

 

[blkdawg]

I have been running ATX-20HD. 2 years now and no problem at all. Haven't get me stranded yet. I don't drive it often though and it's always on trickle charger.. weights 5lb.

 

[Mr Ree NZ]

I'm at the point to where I'm either going lithium or just doing a trunk relocation and full size. Where my battery currently is the only thing that will fit will be a pc680 size. Once again, my pc680 I replaced died and won't take a charge. I left the cable on over the winter and killed it. Is it my fault this time....yes, but it literally was brand new never used. I've had 5 of these batteries since I've owned my car and this was the last.

It's going to cost around the same to relocate to the rear so this is why I'm torn on this subject. Should I give the lithium a shot or go tried and true, no issue full size lead acid?

The only issue I can see with a full sized lead acid battery in the back, is that you would need to build an externally vented enclosure to ensure you dont end up breathing anything toxic

 

[HotSoup]

The only issue I can see with a full sized lead acid battery in the back, is that you would need to build an externally vented enclosure to ensure you dont end up breathing anything toxic

Not an issue with a sealed battery box.

I went with a rear mount setup like phr sells. Honestly just tired of the small battery BS. I know lithium will be the way of the future but for now I'm just going to go with what works.

 

[1A1]

Not an issue with a sealed battery box.

I went with a rear mount setup like phr sells. Honestly just tired of the small battery BS. I know lithium will be the way of the future but for now I'm just going to go with what works.

Small Battery BS? You should have gone with Anti-Gravity. Running the cabling to the back along with the supporting infrastructure and the heavy lead battery is 45-50lbs heavier than just going with the AG battery in the stock location. That's definitely noticeable in handling and acceleration. The lighter the car, the less parts breakage, better handling, and better braking..but you know that

Steve

 

[Ego0322]

Running a Braile Lithium Ion. Maintained stock battery location and was able to use a Plazmaman manifold with big piping and not have to cut my fender at all
View attachment 262979


What model battery did you go with? Do you have a part number?

 

[HotSoup]

Small Battery BS? You should have gone with Anti-Gravity. Running the cabling to the back along with the supporting infrastructure and the heavy lead battery is 45-50lbs heavier than just going with the AG battery in the stock location. That's definitely noticeable in handling and acceleration. The lighter the car, the less parts breakage, better handling, and better braking..but you know that

Steve

I have no way of putting anything in the stock location as I have a SP manifold and 4" IC piping. I can always go back, but remember weight in the back is good for traction too lol.

 

[KenHenderson]

FYI, right rear corner on the JZA80 TT chassis is the lightest. All battery relocations to the rear should wind up there.


Ken.