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Discussion Starter #1
Well I'm researching a system. Basically I have one main question, I was told the lower the Hz the cleaner and better the bass. I was looking at ma audio comps like 2k watts 280oz. magnets but had 32Hz. While MA Audios cheaper lines were under 20Hz down to 17Hz on their cheapest 10in. sub.. Yet focals run 30Hz and JL Audio run 20Hz.. so can anyone please clear this up for me?

I don't know what I want as far as interior speakers. I just think I will go with whatever company makes my subwoofers and use their interior speakers. I would like to stick with a mono amp but any suggestion are welcome. If you had to make a dream system post the specs here, because I am looking for expereinces and suggestion.

Now besides that this it what I am looking at for subwoofers right now:


12 Inch Extreme Competition Subwoofer

2500 watts RMS power | 280 oz double stacked strontium magnets | Dual 3 Inch black aluminum voice coils | 2 Inch treated rolled foam surround | Double stacked strontium magnets | Vented magnet structure for better heat dissipation | Heavy duty partial-pressed Spruce pulp cone for more solid bass, higher SPL| Chrome post terminals for better connection during hard hitting bass| Chromed aluminum 20 spoke cast basket | Dual 2 ohm voice coil which maybe connected in parallel for a 1 Ohm load or series for a 4 Ohm load | Rubber sealant gasket


Focal Audiomobile 33K

33cm (13") subwoofer for bass reflex enclosures
77mm (3") v.coil
180mm (7") magnet
Max. power handling: 800W
Nominal power handling: 400W
Sensitivity (2.8 V/1m) 94.5dB
Frequency response: 30Hz*-1Hz


JL Audio W7

Not really any specs, JL Audio.. nuf said ;)


12.5LF - ProSeries Subwoofers
12.5LF - ProSeries Subwoofers Full Product Specifications
Nominal Size 12" (300mm)
Recommended Amplifier Power 50-1200 watts
Nominal Impedance 2-ohm/4-ohm
Mounting Cutout Diameter 11" (280mm)
Mounting Depth 5-5/8" (143mm)
Recommended Enclosure 1.0ft ³ (28 liters) volume sealed


Also looking at.
Alumapros Alchemy Series, Alpine Type R's, Image Dynamics, basically throwing every name I know. Looking for the best mix between SP & SQL...? I want to be heard 4 blocks away yet have the clarity to cruise.. Thanks as usual! :D
 
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What are you going for? SPL or SQ? If you want SQ, then stay far away from the MA Audio stuff.....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
NeedsBoost said:
What are you going for? SPL or SQ? If you want SQ, then stay far away from the MA Audio stuff.....
The best of both worlds.. But I still don't understand the Hz thing. I called my friend at Audio Creations in Boca, and he told me the higher the better. MA Audio has 32Hz and Focal has 30Hz... the reason I compare the two is I heard Focal is the best SQ speaker you can purchase... "heard" and MA Audio I have heard myself and is a great sub I guess..

I want something that can be heard down the street when turned up, yet has a clean tight sound, and will make your eyeballs dance :D Any suggestions?
 

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Ok, ok, maybe 500rwhp!!!
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Suprascene.com said:


The best of both worlds.. But I still don't understand the Hz thing. I called my friend at Audio Creations in Boca, and he told me the higher the better. MA Audio has 32Hz and Focal has 30Hz... the reason I compare the two is I heard Focal is the best SQ speaker you can purchase... "heard" and MA Audio I have heard myself and is a great sub I guess..

I want something that can be heard down the street when turned up, yet has a clean tight sound, and will make your eyeballs dance :D Any suggestions?
Try a pair of Eclipse's 12" Aluminum DVC subs with about 1500watts continous in the smallest box per specs...they'll pound your ass into the seat...plus they look cool as hell too! I'm doing a single 10" in the stock sub location with about 1k watts continous to it.

Brian
 

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I would reccoment 2x10w7 with a JL 500/1 amp running each sub. Enclosure size sealed 1.25 sealed. Or 1.5 Ported with 12 square inches of port space, Tuning frequency for this box is 32 hz. These subs will do whatever you want them to do.

That's just my 2 cents.

If you are in Mass or NH area I can get you a deal on these But anywhere else it would be transhipping.

Also for front and rears I would reccomend either the MB Quarts (psd or rsd seperates) or the jl XR series seperates from JL.

Nazar
 
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JL's probably have the best balance of SQ and SPL that you'll find. Additionally, they're very high quality and can often take more power than they're rated for. I've got a pair of 10W0's that sound incredibly crisp and clear, but can still pound out the dB's when I pop in the dB Drag Racing CD (I'm talking so loud that I had to get out of the car and move several feet away so I wasn't in pain!). And this was with a JBL 300.1 amp. 300 watts and it was that strong. The W7 series is (I believe) designed more for power than clarity, though you can't really have too much power. As for being heard four blocks away, you won't be able to push that kind of power unless you're willing to wear very good ear protection. Not with the trunk shut and the doors and windows closed.

I'd suggest JL Audio for the subs and amp, and maybe Infinity comps for the rest of the system. When you tune the sub amp for quality (vs power), those JL's should do a great job complementing the Infinity's. If I were going to be keeping my Stang for awhile, I'd be putting Infinity's in it.

Also, the head unit you select needs to have enough pre-outs for whatever amp(s) you go with, and make sure they are all voltage-compatible.

If you're interested in dB Drag Racing, check out http://www.soundoff.org/usac1.htm . The most popular sub used there is JL Audio, I believe.
 

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Yes, 10w7 and 12w7 is now out. 13W7 looks like march. You can not order them online that is against the authorized dealer policy and contracts. Also w7 are supposed to be installed by an authorized dealer only. There was a special training session we all had to go, to be able to carry the line of W7s.

Anyone near Mass or NH We have them in stock. anywhere else I think would be quite a ride.
;)

Nazar
 

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Cope, the dip of champs!
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As much as I would like a W7 I'm not buying one from an authorized dealer. Shops in my area are a ripoff. They wanted $1500 for a set of utopias.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well from what I was told these are my findings. I was told by the rep at JL Audio that there should be two Hz numbers which are really frequency responce numbers. With this being said he then followed on to say that the low number is how low it will drop how deep it will feel and the higher number is how loud the bass is meaning how far away you can hear it basically. He said you want an SPL speaker you go for high numbers like MA Audio. You want clarity you go for something with lower numbers. Keeping in mind theh igh number can be changed based on box or other tweaks. So now knowing this below are the best speakers I have found for all around sound quality and boomin bass.

Image Dynamics IDQ12DVC
300W RMS
14Hz - 200Hz

JL Audio W7 Series
15Hz - ???Hz (not published)
$749.00/Each

Pioneer TS-W12PRS
300W RMS
15Hz - 200Hz
$400.00/Each

MB Quart PWD 304
400W RMS
17Hz - 300Hz

Panasonic CJ-HD30
200W RMS
18Hz - 3kHz
$229.99/Each

Infinity 1220W
300W RMS
20Hz - 800Hz

Orion HCCA 12
600W RMS
20Hz - 500Hz

Nakamichi SP-W1200D
450W RMS
20Hz - 500Hz

Boston Acoustics 12.5LF Pro Series
600W RMS
20Hz-130Hz
$300.00/Each

Alpine SWR-1240D
300W RMS
24Hz - 2kHz

So with all this said and recorded I really don't know which sups to go with. As you can see I would like to stick with twelves. Either two or three, but definetly twelves. Has anyone had any expereince with any of the subwoofers listed above? Does anyone have any comments on my findings? Anything would be great!
 

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To answer your question Hz (Hertz) is the measure of frequency. The approximate range of human hearing is 20-20k Hz. When speaker manufacturers list the freq response what they are telling you the band of frequencies that the driver is designed for.

For example...

A 15 inch sub may be 18-200 Hz. Meaning that above 200 Hz and below 18 Hz the output drops off 3dB (1/2 power) or more.

A 10 inch sub may show 28-300 Hz.. meaning that it doesn't go as low... but will go a bit higher (but that's not want a sub is designed for).

Hope this clears it up... but be weary as to how the sub was measured... they can play tricks with the numbers to make it look better than it is.

Stick with the better names and you'll be OK... I had good luck with Boston Pro's and Soundstream Exacts... but make sure you have the proper enclosure and power to drive them or you're wasting money.
 
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