Here's my story...........I have recently bought a 90 turbo with a bad engine. I bought a motor from ebay, and had a local shop with a Master Toyota mechanic do the install. The motor will start and run, but has a loud clicking (metal on metal type) coming from the top end. This noise is evident at start up, and increases with RPM. Other than this noise, the motor seems to be extremely smooth. It idles just fine, does not smoke, and I can't even see a vibration at high RPM. The mechanic narrrowed the noise down to the top of the motor, cam cover just under the coil pack on the intake side. He pulled both cam covers today, and could find nothing wrong. The motor has good oil pressure, and good compression.
My thinking is put it all back together and try driving it, to see if it clears up (wishful thinking). When I mentioned this, the mechanic said he was about at the punt stage as well. This was very dissapointing that he is there already, after all the recommendations I got about him. Anyway, I know you guys are probably more knowledgeable that a Toyota mech anyway. Help with quick answers, as I will probably drive it tomorrow.
feeler guage is a tool that has a bunch of thin blades of different thicknesses. You can put different blades together to make odd thicknesses. You can use this to gap spark plugs also. You slide these blades between the cam lobe and valve shim to find the valve clearance (it will be the thickest measurement that fits between the lobe and shim). Refer to the TSRM for exact procedure...pages EM6 and EM7. basically, tho, just point the lobe away from the valve, and measure the clearance. Rotate engine as needed to measure all of them. For those out of spec (.0059-.0098" for intake and .0079-.0118" for exhaust), measure the shim thickness w/ a dial/digital caliper. Add the amount you need to it's thickness to bring the clearance within spec, and go to the dealer and buy one...in a nutshell.
I think I need to adjust the valves in my car, and I hear a lot of people actually prefer to remove the camshaft rather than use the SST to remove and install the shims.. Is this simply to avoid having to spend $35 on the tool, or is it actually easier to remove and reinstall the camshaft than deal with the special tool?
go get yourself an automotive stethoscope while you are at it. works awesome for finding noises.
be aware it is normal for them to tick some- often called the toyota tick. our injectors are crazy noisy. but if you are hearing it inside with the hood closed id say its something more than normal noise. my look would def be the valves in that case.
When I first bought my 88 it had a noise in it that sounded exactly like it was coming from the top. We tore it down and found nothing. Checked it with a stethoscope and it still sounded to be up top. Decided to pull the engine and found it to be a loose rod bearing. It is very hard sometimes on an engine that has a mechanical valve train and as Dave said alot of injector noise to pin point stuff sometimes. Good luck and be careful driving it to far until finding the culprit.
Thanks for all your help. I have been pasing suggestions on to the mechanic that has the car. I have some other things going on, so I have run the Supra fund dry for now. I was told that a bad turbo would put back pressure on the head, and play games with the valves. And that the noise I hear is the pistons slamming into valves. Surely some of you have blown a turbo. Does this sound like what it did when it happened?
I am bringing the car home tomorrow, and will swap the turbo out. Hopefully this will solve my problems.
had a similar problem on my 1jz swap.
it ended up being one of my turbo fins blowing, getting sucked into the cylinder, taking a chunk out of the head before disintegrating and that chunk of the head clunking around in the cylinder.