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Discussion Starter #1
My friend just bought a bone stock one owner never abused '93tt with 89,000 miles. We are trying it out next month on the local track. If we like it and it doesn't become too expensive, we might stick with it all season. The class we're racing is Street Touring which means very few mods are permitted. I really didn't feel like scanning through the whole website for this info, so please help.

Tires
Threadwear has to be above 120, so racing tires are out. S03 seem best. 275/40 17 rear, but what size up front?

Wheels
Will these rims fit? 17x9" 40mm and 17x9½" 40mm.
(volks SE37k's, I have 4 of each. 9½" fit up front? )

Suspension
Coil-overs not allowed. Just springs and shocks. No idea here on what to get.

Cooling
Is the radiator a must do mod (like in the RX-7)? I'm hoping we can get by the first race without it. Hoses, pump and belts are getting replaced.

Brakes
Low budget please! Planning on new non drilled, with hawk blue pads. ATE brake fluid. SS braided lines. Where to shop?

Is there anything else that we should look at?

Thanks
 

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As long as you don't use a FMIC, the stock radiator is fine. I've done track events on 110F days without any car overheating (the driver was another story). As far as the brakes, just get some good race pads, and you're in business. If street touring means autoxing, the stock pads should be more than adequate. One thing you left off the list is an alignment. Use Lance's alignment specs, but get more negative camber up front. Get at least -1.5 degrees if possible.

Eric
 
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Discussion Starter #3
radiator

Eric,

Thanks. That's what I figured. Radiator on this cars is huge (well it's a huge car too:) ). IC upgrade not allowed, unless it stays at the OE location.

Street Touring class (ST1) is about 50 minutes of road racing with about 30 other cars. Top speed will be about 130mph, maybe even more.

-1.5º at the front. What about rear?
Whose Lance?

Taz
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What is the sanctioning body you are running under. NASA? Or is that an SCCA class and it just doesn't ring a bell. I have heard good things about the Falken Azenis but they don't make a 275 rear though. Think it is 140 wear rating. I lot of people in Solo 2 STS class are running them. According to Grassroots Motorsports mag the Azenis have an "almost" r compound stiff sidewall. They are very inexpensive. A little over a hundred bucks. Can get 245s in the front but only sell 255s right now. BFGs are good but expensive.

Hawk Blues are good track pads if you like rapidly eaten rotors. Many people have put Carbotech panther plus on for track events and like them. I highly recommend do a front brake duct set up to cool your rotors which will of course keep pad temps and brake fluid temps done. I have done that on my car and would do an event without it. I can't say enough about the importance of good brake set up and a ducting system to keep from warping, glazing, and boiling everything.

Springs. Lot of people like KYBs. Maybe you could find some springs in a custom poundage. More along the lines of the tein numbers just not coilovers. Mani who just did the Sports car compact mag street challenge got some custom selected eibachs in a poundage not quite as stiff as teins. Brake rotors. Don't get drilled that is for sure. Will crack under track use. I buy OEM rotors and them have them custom slotted. Is not expensive. Get my rotors from Jay Mark Toyota (Jeff Watson on this forum).

I guess they don't allow downpipes. If they do go with it. Anyway I would get a good catback for more hp. I have an Apexi N1 which is 4 inch diameter. Allegedlly 35 more rwhp. I really like it and it is one of the less expensive exhaust (approx $550 with shipping).

Barry H. 94tt supra 6sp
 

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BTW when you are saying local track, I am assuming a road course of some type, not a Solo 2 parking lot set up. Solo 2 would be a whole different beast and set up.
Barry H.
 

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Tire wise, I'd go with the BFG KDs if your getting aftermarket rims, and the Falken Azenis if your staying on the stockers. Both tires are stickier and will last longer under track abuse than other high end street tires treadwear tires. Actually I haven't used the Azenis myself, but have heard good things about them. They are a _lot_ cheaper than the KDs, but only come in stock sizes. Incidentally, both tires are on national back order right now.... I think you can get the KDs in <315 sizes.

I'm sure Andi will say how much cryo treated rotors help, I haven't had the chance to try mine out yet :(

Eric, what are the side effects of that much camber on the street? Accelerated inside wear? Or is it not enough to make a difference with 0 toe?
 

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Hey Grant,
You talked about (somewhere) any tire size over stock is too much on our stock "skinny" rims, according to Grassroots Motorsports magazine (don't ask me how they know) the Azenis are "near R compound" stiffness on the sidewalls. IF that is true then "super-sizing" the stock rims would be an advantage like a lot of people do with Hoosiers or Kuhmos race rubber. Of course that is academic I guess since they don't make a 275 (yet) for the rear of the Supra. If I went with the Azenis I still think I would try a 245front and a 255rear just to keep the understeer down. My .02.
Barry H. (Doing the first 02 Solo 2 tommorrow)
 
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Discussion Starter #8
bwill,
It's FIA, but they are slowly changing to SCCA so for the next year there'll be conflicting issues as to what is allowed and what is not. Two 50 minute trials complete a race. We'll be going against 30 other cars. Toughest competitor in the same class is the Z06. The track is 1.7 miles, at about 1:20 per lap. Top speed should be around 130mph.

I'll add the brake duct to my list, and I'll check on the downpipe - as long as it doesn't increase boost too much.

It's also allowed to run a computer upgrade or a piggyback, but since increased boost isn't allowed, I imagine benefits will be less than marginal.

So you guy's would pick the BFG or the Falkens over the S03's?
 

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Grant said:

Eric, what are the side effects of that much camber on the street? Accelerated inside wear? Or is it not enough to make a difference with 0 toe?
The inside edge wears a little faster, but it's not dramatic with 0 toe. The difference in front end stick is dramatic however.

Erci
 

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Re: radiator

Taz said:
Eric,

-1.5º at the front. What about rear?
Whose Lance?

Taz
newbie
Lance is a guy who came up with some alignment specs that are popular among mkiv owners. I don't remember the exact specs, but it is approximately 0 toe up front, minimal (1/16"?) toe in the back and some negative camber front and rear (~-1 degree), and about 5 degrees of caster up front. If you search Supraforums or the mkiv list archives you should be able to find them. A lot of people, myself included can't get that much caster though. I run -1.2 degrees in the rear and -1.8 or so up front and have about 3 degrees of caster. You end up having to trade off camber and caster because of the way the alignment cams work, so get the amount of negative camber you want, then get the maximum amount of caster possible, staying equal on both sides.

Eric
 

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Taz,
No matter what some people may think the Z06 is one fast machine. Just take SCCA Solo 2 for instance. Z06 dominated the Nationals this year. In 02 the Z06 stayed in Solo 2 Super Stock but the Supra got "downgraded" to A Stock. Z06 has torque and high lateral Gs. I have heard but don't know if it is true that the brakes are the weak link on the car. Maybe with some legal mods you can get more hp tweaks than the Corvette can. I have a brake duct rig if you want to look at it to either copy or at least swipe an idea from Pegasus Auto Racing www.pegasusautoracing.com has various 550 degree F Silicone rubber Air ducts and some various shaped air inlet ducts you may want to consider. The DP will by virtue of breathing better increase the boost and you will have to put in something like a BCC to avoid fuel cut so that may make the DP illegal. FIA, where is this track? Sounds like fun anyway. What do they require for rollbar/rollcage?
Barry H.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Barry,

If you have a picture of the brake ducts in your car I'd like to look at it. I would never disagree on the Z06 being one of the best balanced cars out there. The only difference between him and us is that his car costs $70,000¹ and the supra was $23,000 and we are always willing to trade paint :) . The track is in Salinas, PR. All they require is a rollbar, harness and fire supression system.

I still need to know what you guys think about the Volk Racing wheels (they are from my RX-7), and which springs and shocks to go with.

So far the only supra store I'm considering as reputable is the SupraStore, but their catalog is limited to very few choices. Where else to look?

Thanks

jic

¹ Taxes are 30% for cars over $40k.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Taz said:
Wheels
Will these rims fit? 17x9" 40mm and 17x9½" 40mm.
(volks SE37k's, I have 4 of each. 9½" fit up front? )

Suspension
Coil-overs not allowed. Just springs and shocks. No idea here on what to get.

Cooling
Is the radiator a must do mod (like in the RX-7)? I'm hoping we can get by the first race without it. Hoses, pump and belts are getting replaced.

Brakes
Low budget please! Planning on new non drilled, with hawk blue pads. ATE brake fluid. SS braided lines. Where to shop?
[/B]
Stock wheel sizes are 17x8 front +50, 17x9.5 rear +50. You might have problems with tires rubbing with those rears. Use 245/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears.

About tires, my KDW's get greasy on the track. I'd stick with the good suggestions from others on tires.

If you aren't allowed a coilover suspension, then go with either Koni Yellows or KYB AGX'es. I don't know what springs you should get, Eibachs may be too low for you. If you're not sure how to set up the car and won't have much test/practice time, go with the KYB's; you can adjust the shocks much more easily than with Konis.

Stock radiator is OK. If you're allowed to update/backdate, replace with a '97 radiator, it's lighter. Also, if you can, replace your power steering pump with a '97; the first generation pump vanes can break apart when you overheat your fluid. Seriously consider a replacement power steering cooler. I can overheat my power steering fluid until it expands out the top of the resovoir.

Brakes: DO BRAKE DUCTS. 3" are allowed in SCCA IT, check your reg book. Use Hawk Blue pads with stock rotors, and change them out for stock pads when not at the track. If you lock up the rears first when braking, use Hawk blacks in the rear. The stock pads will fade on a brake-heavy course; I found this out the hard way and had an agricultural experience.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the replies. The ps pump was replaced yesterday, I just hope all pumps sold are the newer ones.

I just found out today that DOT race tires will be allowed. This is a first for the ST (Street Touring) class. So Hoosiers it is, no contest here if we want to stay competitive. I'm not sure if this is good news to me, since I wasn't too worried about fading the brakes with the street tires. However I'm not sure if the stock brakes can deal with Hoosiers even with the ducts and the Hawk blues. Can they?

wiz, you mention locking up tires in your reply, do you race without ABS???

I still need your suggestions as to where to shop, and I don't mean locally - anywhere in the US.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Correction

I originally thought that the PS pump changed from '96 to '97. It turns out that I got some bad information, and the PS pump is identical.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Taz said:
I just found out today that DOT race tires will be allowed. This is a first for the ST (Street Touring) class. So Hoosiers it is, no contest here if we want to stay competitive. I'm not sure if this is good news to me, since I wasn't too worried about fading the brakes with the street tires. However I'm not sure if the stock brakes can deal with Hoosiers even with the ducts and the Hawk blues. Can they?

wiz, you mention locking up tires in your reply, do you race without ABS???

I still need your suggestions as to where to shop, and I don't mean locally - anywhere in the US.
Hoosier RS303, 245/40/17 front and 275/40/17 rear on stock rims.

With brake ducts, you should not have fade problems with Hawk Blues and stock brakes. However, you will replace your rotors frequently and might want to consider rebuilding your calipers and replacing with stainless braided lines. The stainless braided lines should cost you about $100 and will resist road debris (parts from other cars!) and off-road excursions better.

With Hawk blues, I can lock up street tires briefly before the ABS lets off. Since the ABS isn't calibrated for these pads, you will need to learn threshold braking. It's faster than ABS anyway.

For OEM or TRD parts, call Jay Marks Toyota (number is at www.toyotaworld.com) and ask for Jeff Watson. He races a MKIV Toyota Supra in SCCA Super Production and will hook you up.

I shop for most hard race parts at www.racerpartswholesale.com because they're right on the other side of a state line from me and UPS ground takes 1 day to get to me. For helmets and safety clothing, I like to buy local retail, because you need to try it on.
 

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Taz said:
Thanks for the replies. The ps pump was replaced yesterday, I just hope all pumps sold are the newer ones.
Just put a cooler on it (I used an auto tranny cooler), and it will be fine.

Eric
 

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