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Discussion Starter #1
My lower oil pan on my 1994 Supra is leaking and I am thing about replacing it.
Can you guys give me some tips on what is the best way to do this.

Thanks.
 

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If its the black pan you should be able to do it with the motor in. Never did it in the car but just pry it off all the way around a little at a time. If you bent it tap it on the floor with a hammer to flatten it back out. then use a wire brush on a drill to get the old gasket off and OUT of the groves. Clean the bottom of the oil pan left on the motor. Use the toyota black sealent. Then put it back together!
 

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TT This
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jimmyP said:
If its the black pan you should be able to do it with the motor in. Never did it in the car but just pry it off all the way around a little at a time. If you bent it tap it on the floor with a hammer to flatten it back out. then use a wire brush on a drill to get the old gasket off and OUT of the groves. Clean the bottom of the oil pan left on the motor. Use the toyota black sealent. Then put it back together!
lol, if it were only that easy... The pan does not come out unless you do some major work. I had to unbolt the engine from it's mounts, jack up the front of the engine so the tranny/oil pan points down. Then I still couldn't get it out. I had to drop the front suspension subframe and I was finally able to sneak it out.

If you search you will realize it's one of the most annoying things about our beloved cars.
 

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As 95 said, it is a real PITA. It is easier to just pull the whole dam engine out to do it. Takes about 4-5 hours. Then you can do some spring cleaning and replacment of old parts and hoses before putting it back in. The other downisde about doing it upside down is trying to clean off any old gasket sealer while you are on your back. It gets old quick.
 

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I had the engine out when I done the pans and it was still a huge pain in the ass. If it's still got the factory sealant, just prying the pan off without tearing it up is a challenge. Toyota says to use a knife like tool the wedge between the pan and cut the sealant first. I didn't have anything that would work like that so I had to pry it off which will inevitably bend the lower pan. The second biggest pain is removing the old sealant. I did the scrape method which took hours. Try some gasket remover from the parts store. It's suppose to soften and dissolve it. And third, you can't screw around once you lay the new bead and be sure to apply like the book says or you might end up doing the job over again. The toyota stuff skins pretty quick so you want to precisely put the bead on as fast as you can and get the pan in place before it starts to dry too much. I'd hate to do this job with the engine in the car. Gook luck and have some patience. Oh, I'd wait at least a day before filling with oil and running the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
NinetyFiveNA said:
lol, if it were only that easy... The pan does not come out unless you do some major work. I had to unbolt the engine from it's mounts, jack up the front of the engine so the tranny/oil pan points down. Then I still couldn't get it out. I had to drop the front suspension subframe and I was finally able to sneak it out.

If you search you will realize it's one of the most annoying things about our beloved cars.
Where is the safe spot to jack the front of the engine? I definatelly don't want to pull the engine out, plus I don't have enough tools to do that. So I will change it from the button, but I need to know where is the safe spot to jack up the front of the engine.

Thanks.
 

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Spencer
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you dont have to jack up the engine to remove the lower pan. The upper pan is a different story though. You have to remove one crossmember, and its a pain in the ass to get all the sealent off but I did it. Its not a fun job, and its timeconsuming.

Another thing I would make sure your leak is in the lower pan, its really not prone to leaking. The leak is more likely to develop near the front main seal. Might wanna make sure its your problem before you tear into it.
 

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if you have a TRD strut bar... you can drop the crossmember and use the strut bar to hold up the motor... it's been tested and yes it does hold... which suprise the hell outta me... don't know if your willing to try though... :)
 

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how can you tell which oil pan is leaking? top or bottom? cause I have a leak right now and its dripping onto the crossmember (the part where you jack up the car), its not much but just a drip here and there. I notice that it would spray down to the tranny area and onto the downpipe. Today when I was under the car, i cleaned off most of the dirt and was working on replacing all my vacuum lines. In about an 2-3 hours later, I look under and saw a drop or two right underneath the cross member. At first I thought it was the shifter seal on the tranny. Now I'm thinking it is the oil pan or maybe the rear main seal. Let me know. Thanks.
 

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crazysupratt said:
how can you tell which oil pan is leaking? top or bottom? cause I have a leak right now and its dripping onto the crossmember (the part where you jack up the car), its not much but just a drip here and there. I notice that it would spray down to the tranny area and onto the downpipe. Today when I was under the car, i cleaned off most of the dirt and was working on replacing all my vacuum lines. In about an 2-3 hours later, I look under and saw a drop or two right underneath the cross member. At first I thought it was the shifter seal on the tranny. Now I'm thinking it is the oil pan or maybe the rear main seal. Let me know. Thanks.

If you've cleaned it pretty good and all you should be able to find a trail of where it starts...just got to look carefully... good luck
 
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