According to Jeff Lange all the 220mm big diff 6-speed cars all got Torsen T-1's. It was only the 200mm small diffs that eventually got Torsen T-2's (97-98) for the U.S. models.
Hello, from what gathered the first photo is the auto tt torsen lsd and the second photo is torsen lsd as well. I couldnt find anymore details of second photo torsen lsd other than: 10 bolt ring gear, 49 teeth ring gear, 13 teeth on pinion and when you spin driveline both axle stubs rotate in...
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Chatters, your theory is along the lines of what I have guessed is happening with the "stepping left" tendency of the T-1 design. And of course especially with any LSD equipped car it's an extremely good idea to learn how to counter-steer if that's not already in the driver's skill set.
Wet roads reduce traction potential for any tire compound and this will just make it easier to induce this tendency under the right conditions. With a non-TRAC car (SC) my solution was to quickly learn how to adjust my driving style to the conditions and get better at counter-steering if required. With a GTE swap I still have no TRAC system and so the same considerations apply.
As mentioned it even happened to me with an NA engine in the wet but that was with a tire compound that was really, really not known for being good to use in the rain on any car (great track tire though, the KDW2's).
I'm one of those rare few at the stock power level for a 2JZ-GTE and as such with the T-1, 275mm rear tires in a good compound and no TRAC I am totally fine with the old Torsen and its inherent quirks and limitations. I even drive the car in the rain (in a reasonable way and not flat out obviously) and it's fine and safe.
I know there have been many people who have pushed their pricey used MKIV factory Torsen LSDs well past the "recommended" 500whp beyond which many suggest going with a clutch type LSD. I can only guess that it comes down to driving style, how the power is put down and just how many total miles and cycles of stress on the gears are on the Torsen as to whether one survives at really high power while another doesn't at significantly lower power.
As for the quirk of stepping left with the T-1, this video is a pretty good example I'm sure most of us can identify with. It happens a couple of times in this video. Only the first time does the driver fail to save the skid (skip to 44 seconds in).
Of course he wasn't on track deliberately trying to drift in this case and the more I've looked at the clip over time I feel his counter-steering technique wasn't quite as fast as it could have been. No idea about his level of experience with the car but I'm not posting it to judge that one way or the other-- rather I'm leaving it here just to illustrate what many have observed firsthand in some conditions (usually in the wet) with the stock Torsen T-1 LSDs depending on driver input.
I can only say that if I were going to up my car to 600whp-700whp or higher I would look into an OS Giken 1.5-way or one of the many 2-way clutch type LSD options. Those all are proven to reliably hold extreme power into four digits with predictable lock which is what you want at a certain level of power.
Or
maybe I'd attempt to track down a 200mm factory Torsen T-2 but I suspect that even that one has some ultimate limitations. I also still feel that the selection of tire plays a big part in this as well since that is the final component between the car and the road which determines the degree of traction you can hope to maintain in a given situation. Further, for drag racing or dedicated drag setups the Torsen, especially the T-1, is not suited for or destined to live long under those kinds of severe stresses.
For the very mild "stock"-like setup I currently have I am fine with the Torsen T-1, quirks and all. I just treat it with respect in the wet.
As for all enthusiast drivers in the U.S. being afraid of turns, that's pretty funny and couldn't be farther from the truth.