Not to thread Jack, but have a related question for everyone here: keeping my 7m like op, and like the build mentioned above that was just shy of 400whp. How important or necessary are forged internals? Can I run my stock internals with a 57 trim ct26 lexus afm 550cc fuel injectors, ddp, exhaust, and an new versioned driftmotion intercooler and not blow something up down the road?
Assuming your 1987-1992 Supra Turbo with its 7M-GTE engine is in good overall condition and has had ALL needed maintenance (headgasket, radiator, belts/hoses/timing belt, couplers, fluids, filters etc all replaced) This is the tried and true formula for 'a little more' on the stock ECU without...
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Ultimately at that level you're rolling the dice with the stock ECU, not the stock internals.
The ECU's ultimately limited by running the whole show off of only the CPS, and it infers a crank position from that which is very inaccurate and subjected to between 4-8* of signal jitter, or basically a random inaccuracy in that range. Meaning the stock ECU will command say 14* of ignition timing advance and the actual ignition event will be beween 10* and 18*, sometimes wider. Using scalar AFM signal adjustments like an S-AFC to compensate for 550cc or larger injectors will also advance that commanded base timing advance, which also adds risk.
Long story short is that you're basically at the upper limit of what you can safely support with the stock ECU and honestly it's still a bit of a dice roll. A proper solution will involve an engine refresh with at least an MLS headgasket and ARP studs, and a proper cam/crank sensor setup and a modern ECU that can run off of those sensors.
Would you mind dm’ing me please? I have so many questions about your build (I still can’t send messages it seems)
If I answer your questions here, other folks can reference it and benefit from it. That's why I'm here. I do answer a lot of PM traffic but PM's are disabled for accounts less than 30 days old and with less than 30 posts. Thank the spam bots and random spammers for that, unfortunately.
OP and Wreckless, for what it's worth I currently run a 10th generation HKS turbo timer in my GTE swapped (with stock CT12B twins) SC300. I don't use it all the time but I do whenever I'm in a rush and/or otherwise can't for whatever reason wait with the car to allow it to cool off before cutting the ignition.
I try to keep it as a second option only and discipline myself to not rely on it but it's nice to have when needed. I had to recreate the HKS PnP harness for the JZZ30 Soarer for my car but I believe HKS still makes their PnP harness for the MKIII Supra's ignition.
Wreckless, thank you for pointing this out regarding the improvements to modern quality synthetic oils over oils that were available in the 1980's, 90's and early 2000's. I always run Mobil1 synthetic oil, a Toyota filter and change at 3,000 mile intervals.
Perhaps it really is an overkill and unnecessary thing today as you say even with older OEM turbos like the CT26 and CT12B?
Personally I think it's overkill unless you're doing really hard canyon driving or a track event or similar, and are logging/monitoring oil temps and use a turbo timer to keep the engine running to circulate oil through an oil cooler. I have a few HKS turbo timers that I'll probably install in a couple builds just for nostalgia, though.
@Wreckless @ZaZZn is it better to do both the cam and crank setup or would the crank setup suffice? I've seen some use the stock CPS for the cam sensor, would that be okay also?
Getting an accurate crank sensor and a modern ECU that can read it accurately is about 90% of the battle. Because the ECU will (almost always) use the crank sensor to determine when to trigger ignition timing events, and accurate and consistent ignition timing control is one of the biggest benefits of a modern standalone vs the old TCCS stock ECU.
Personally I prefer to go scorched earth with a modern standalone install and get all new sensors for everything and doing a totally fresh ignition system too, especially if you're having a professional tune the car for you. Nothing worse than doubling or tripling your eventual tuning costs trying to save a couple hundred bucks on a crank sensor or new smart coils from a 1ZZ-FE or similarly holding on to old OEM crap.
