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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I know... head gaskets and ARP studs.. But I have been driving my stock 7m for a while now and I would like to eventually make 450-500 whp as reliably as possible. That means possibly overbuilding the engine so I can enjoy the car and not have to worry about it blowing up 馃槀.

I was wondering if anyone could give general advice about how to go about this; turbo, exhaust etc. I know for sure that I want to run a FFIM and would possibly like to run a 1jzgte FFIM. If anyone has some advice I would greatly appreciate it!

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89 Turbo - 2JZGE-T VVTi 6062
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Beautiful car!
You'll want a nice standalone and a cam/crank trigger system for those power levels. You can definitely make it without a FFIM
Turbo
Manifold
Injectors
ECU + sensors
Downpipe + Exhaust (3in minimum)
Intercooler
Fuel pump (Walbro 450 should be plenty)
Fuel lines (only if you want to run e85, I don't think the stockers will flow enough for that)
Clutch
Depending on your turbo size (and lag), you could also throw in some water/meth injection for a safety margin on pump gas
 

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7M's are pretty stout and should be able to handle 500whp if set up right
Cams would also help you reach that level but I don't think they're necessary for 500. It would definitely help though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok thanks for this guys. What have you heard about the upgraded ct-26 turbo that driftmotion makes. Would it be better to just go for something else? ie Garret, Borg Warner.

Any recommendations for specific cams and an ECU? I know the AEM ones are expensive but i've heard some good things about them.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Ok thanks for this guys. What have you heard about the upgraded ct-26 turbo that driftmotion makes. Would it be better to just go for something else? ie Garret, Borg Warner.

Any recommendations for specific cams and an ECU? I know the AEM ones are expensive but i've heard some good things about them.

Thanks for the help!
The Driftmotion CT-26 even with the largest compressor wheel is maxed out around 400hp, so it won't make your 450-500whp goal. I'd opt for one of their turbo kits with a full manifold and such instead. Or a Sound Performance turbo kit with a nice PTE turbo like a 6266.

I'd avoid Driftmotion's latest version FMIC kit for the 7M-GTE. It has a massive pressure drop and flows like crap even for a 450hp solution. If you find one of the older ones that has the pipe running under the whole IC to get back to the passenger side, that one works well. Alternatively, get the DM IC piping without the IC core and use the Treadstone TRV185 or 1859 IC instead; it'd be worth tweaking and modding the piping and fabricating brackets to use one of those IC's.

For an ECU package, I'd be looking at ECU Masters EMU Black. That paired with a Sound Performance or SR Fab crank sensor kit and matching cam sensor, along with a conversion to smart coils like the 1ZZ-FE ignition coils will completely future proof and solve all of the 80's problems with the 7M-GTE's electronics. Unfortunately, doing all of that is a 'buy once, cry once' sort of situation.
I'd start asking around local and semi-local tuning shops in your area for tuners familiar with and comfortable with ECUMasters ECU's, as they're pretty much the modern go-to for a 7M-GTE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The Driftmotion CT-26 even with the largest compressor wheel is maxed out around 400hp, so it won't make your 450-500whp goal. I'd opt for one of their turbo kits with a full manifold and such instead. Or a Sound Performance turbo kit with a nice PTE turbo like a 6266.

I'd avoid Driftmotion's latest version FMIC kit for the 7M-GTE. It has a massive pressure drop and flows like crap even for a 450hp solution. If you find one of the older ones that has the pipe running under the whole IC to get back to the passenger side, that one works well. Alternatively, get the DM IC piping without the IC core and use the Treadstone TRV185 or 1859 IC instead; it'd be worth tweaking and modding the piping and fabricating brackets to use one of those IC's.

For an ECU package, I'd be looking at ECU Masters EMU Black. That paired with a Sound Performance or SR Fab crank sensor kit and matching cam sensor, along with a conversion to smart coils like the 1ZZ-FE ignition coils will completely future proof and solve all of the 80's problems with the 7M-GTE's electronics. Unfortunately, doing all of that is a 'buy once, cry once' sort of situation.
I'd start asking around local and semi-local tuning shops in your area for tuners familiar with and comfortable with ECUMasters ECU's, as they're pretty much the modern go-to for a 7M-GTE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow thanks for this, a lot of great info. What about the koyo rads? I've seen a few nice builds with them and was wondering how they are?

The car is important to me so keeping it as clean as possible is great, without cheating out too much in the stuff that matters. Do you have a mk3 as well? Would love to know about your build.
 

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Wow thanks for this, a lot of great info. What about the koyo rads? I've seen a few nice builds with them and was wondering how they are?

The car is important to me so keeping it as clean as possible is great, without cheating out too much in the stuff that matters. Do you have a mk3 as well? Would love to know about your build.
Koyo radiators are probably the best performance option still available for the MK3. I'd retain your factory clutch fan and fan shroud if it's all in good shape - you can free up some HP by going to electric fans but as discussed in another current thread (and is discussed here frequently) most aftermarket fan offerings can't keep up with a 7M-GTE and tend to cause temperature issues even with a nice radiator. So I'd keep your clutch fan for simplicity.

I haven't had a running 7M-GTE MKIII of my own in a long, long time. When I did, I was trying to break 400whp with an upgraded CT26; I had a 62-1 compressor rebuilt CT26, a divorced downpipe, GReddy SP exhaust (I do miss that exhaust) and had an HKS VPC+Apexi SAFC running the show for some 550cc injectors fed by a MK4 fuel pump. Made 399.2whp and 428.8wtq back in ~2004 or so, and back then it was a pretty fast car.
I've worked on a few 7M cars since then, though. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Koyo radiators are probably the best performance option still available for the MK3. I'd retain your factory clutch fan and fan shroud if it's all in good shape - you can free up some HP by going to electric fans but as discussed in another current thread (and is discussed here frequently) most aftermarket fan offerings can't keep up with a 7M-GTE and tend to cause temperature issues even with a nice radiator. So I'd keep your clutch fan for simplicity.

I haven't had a running 7M-GTE MKIII of my own in a long, long time. When I did, I was trying to break 400whp with an upgraded CT26; I had a 62-1 compressor rebuilt CT26, a divorced downpipe, GReddy SP exhaust (I do miss that exhaust) and had an HKS VPC+Apexi SAFC running the show for some 550cc injectors fed by a MK4 fuel pump. Made 399.2whp and 428.8wtq back in ~2004 or so, and back then it was a pretty fast car.
I've worked on a few 7M cars since then, though. :)
Yeah im the 90s a car like that was state of the art! I love it to the core and I think the body line is timeless. That sounds like a good setup you had going. What are you driving now?

Also I might as well keep the questions going, what do you think of the Tanabe exhaust for the 7M. I'd like something that would turn heads but not too obnoxious that I would find myself getting exhaust tickets.
 

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Long story on all my personal cars but since then I've had four other MK3's (that were complete running cars; I parted out at least another dozen more), two MR2 turbos, an '89 MR2 Supercharged, a ST185 Celica All-Trac Turbo, two AE86 GT-S's, my '95 MKIV LHD hardtop, an SC300, a '91 LS400 (I miss that car) a '95 Miata M-Edition, a '91 DSM AWD Turbo, a '95 3000GT, an '89 240SX, a '92 Subaru SVX that belonged to a dear friend of mine and we'd turbocharged and 5MT swapped that when it was his, a couple of other boring Subarus, a '95 300ZXTT I got a few years back, a couple of 4Runners, a couple of Sequoias, etc. I've been lucky to experience so many cool Japanese cars from the golden era.
End of the day, though, nothing replaces a Supra. Other cars can only augment a Supra. It's really difficult to explain, but I think you already know :)

I love the Tanabe exhaust for the MK3, but the HKS D2 Sport catback is the one you want if you want to avoid exhaust tickets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow that's sounds like a great line up. You have a MKIV now? Yeah I definitely love mine, the only problem is not driving it in the winter. It kills me.

Btw what do you think about turbo timers. Worth it?
 

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Wow that's sounds like a great line up. You have a MKIV now? Yeah I definitely love mine, the only problem is not driving it in the winter. It kills me.

Btw what do you think about turbo timers. Worth it?
The purpose of a turbo timer was to let the car cool down a bit before the engine shut off. This was sensible because older oil formulations could coke up the bearings in a journal bearing turbo's CHRA if the engine was shut off while the CHRA itself was too hot.
IMHO, modern oil formulations basically made turbo timers irrelevant so long as you're driving the car super easy on the last 1/2-1mi home before shutting it off. And you're not neglecting oil change intervals, and you're not running crap oil like Rotella or Royal Purple. Valvoline VR1 or a modern API SP synthetic like Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntech or Quaker State are all sound choices.
 

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Not to thread Jack, but have a related question for everyone here: keeping my 7m like op, and like the build mentioned above that was just shy of 400whp. How important or necessary are forged internals? Can I run my stock internals with a 57 trim ct26 lexus afm 550cc fuel injectors, ddp, exhaust, and an new versioned driftmotion intercooler and not blow something up down the road?
 

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Koyo radiators are probably the best performance option still available for the MK3. I'd retain your factory clutch fan and fan shroud if it's all in good shape - you can free up some HP by going to electric fans but as discussed in another current thread (and is discussed here frequently) most aftermarket fan offerings can't keep up with a 7M-GTE and tend to cause temperature issues even with a nice radiator. So I'd keep your clutch fan for simplicity.

I haven't had a running 7M-GTE MKIII of my own in a long, long time. When I did, I was trying to break 400whp with an upgraded CT26; I had a 62-1 compressor rebuilt CT26, a divorced downpipe, GReddy SP exhaust (I do miss that exhaust) and had an HKS VPC+Apexi SAFC running the show for some 550cc injectors fed by a MK4 fuel pump. Made 399.2whp and 428.8wtq back in ~2004 or so, and back then it was a pretty fast car.
I've worked on a few 7M cars since then, though. :)
Would you mind dm鈥檌ng me please? I have so many questions about your build (I still can鈥檛 send messages it seems)
 

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So here's my 2 cents.

For a beautiful car like yours, LESS is MORE. I have 2 MK3's, and for the one that I follow this philosophy, I made 430 WHP at SIV 2020.

Now one thing that I have that is a significant advantage vs. you is E85. But the 7m is reliable to make 400 all day long at about 20 PSI on an upgraded CT if you can get the engine to flow by giving it the airflow mods it needs (mainly exhaust).

Here's my mod list.
57 trim Albert mead billet CT26
850CC injectors
MS3 PRO-PNP standalone (I really love this unit FULLY PNP and my other car has a ECU master black)
CX racing style 3" downpipe/elbow in one combo
3" HKS turbo sport muffler (ultra quite)
3" CARB legal cat meant for some big GM gas truck with like a 7.4L engine. (flows better than stock but certainly kills power still)
Old school 3" Sparco intercooler (best one for the MK3 IMO if you are 7m, just hard to find)
Cheap drop-in air filter to the stock air box
Silicon stock intercooler hose replacements (I spike 26 PSI falling to 20PSI on e85)

Other people with better flowing exhaust and intake have made 500WHP on the same setup... I give away some power to have the OEM quiet and not choke on my own fumes. Stock rad is perfectly good if yours is still good no need to change it out.

One mod that I agree is a big improvement is the SRfab crank trigger pick-up this single-handedly will save your engine as it's usually timing issues that blow 7m's IMO. Bad/old CPS's jumping timing like 10-15 degrees for a split second due to ad wiring or not knowing the timing due to belt deflection.
 

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The purpose of a turbo timer was to let the car cool down a bit before the engine shut off. This was sensible because older oil formulations could coke up the bearings in a journal bearing turbo's CHRA if the engine was shut off while the CHRA itself was too hot.
IMHO, modern oil formulations basically made turbo timers irrelevant so long as you're driving the car super easy on the last 1/2-1mi home before shutting it off. And you're not neglecting oil change intervals, and you're not running crap oil like Rotella or Royal Purple. Valvoline VR1 or a modern API SP synthetic like Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntech or Quaker State are all sound choices.
OP and Wreckless, for what it's worth I currently run a 10th generation HKS turbo timer in my GTE swapped (with stock CT12B twins) SC300. I don't use it all the time but I do whenever I'm in a rush and/or otherwise can't for whatever reason wait with the car to allow it to cool off before cutting the ignition.

I try to keep it as a second option only and discipline myself to not rely on it but it's nice to have when needed. I had to recreate the HKS PnP harness for the JZZ30 Soarer for my car but I believe HKS still makes their PnP harness for the MKIII Supra's ignition.

Wreckless, thank you for pointing this out regarding the improvements to modern quality synthetic oils over oils that were available in the 1980's, 90's and early 2000's. I always run Mobil1 synthetic oil, a Toyota filter and change at 3,000 mile intervals.

Perhaps it really is an overkill and unnecessary thing today as you say even with older OEM turbos like the CT26 and CT12B?
 

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Not to thread Jack, but have a related question for everyone here: keeping my 7m like op, and like the build mentioned above that was just shy of 400whp. How important or necessary are forged internals? Can I run my stock internals with a 57 trim ct26 lexus afm 550cc fuel injectors, ddp, exhaust, and an new versioned driftmotion intercooler and not blow something up down the road?

Ultimately at that level you're rolling the dice with the stock ECU, not the stock internals.
The ECU's ultimately limited by running the whole show off of only the CPS, and it infers a crank position from that which is very inaccurate and subjected to between 4-8* of signal jitter, or basically a random inaccuracy in that range. Meaning the stock ECU will command say 14* of ignition timing advance and the actual ignition event will be beween 10* and 18*, sometimes wider. Using scalar AFM signal adjustments like an S-AFC to compensate for 550cc or larger injectors will also advance that commanded base timing advance, which also adds risk.

Long story short is that you're basically at the upper limit of what you can safely support with the stock ECU and honestly it's still a bit of a dice roll. A proper solution will involve an engine refresh with at least an MLS headgasket and ARP studs, and a proper cam/crank sensor setup and a modern ECU that can run off of those sensors.


Would you mind dm鈥檌ng me please? I have so many questions about your build (I still can鈥檛 send messages it seems)
If I answer your questions here, other folks can reference it and benefit from it. That's why I'm here. I do answer a lot of PM traffic but PM's are disabled for accounts less than 30 days old and with less than 30 posts. Thank the spam bots and random spammers for that, unfortunately.

OP and Wreckless, for what it's worth I currently run a 10th generation HKS turbo timer in my GTE swapped (with stock CT12B twins) SC300. I don't use it all the time but I do whenever I'm in a rush and/or otherwise can't for whatever reason wait with the car to allow it to cool off before cutting the ignition.

I try to keep it as a second option only and discipline myself to not rely on it but it's nice to have when needed. I had to recreate the HKS PnP harness for the JZZ30 Soarer for my car but I believe HKS still makes their PnP harness for the MKIII Supra's ignition.

Wreckless, thank you for pointing this out regarding the improvements to modern quality synthetic oils over oils that were available in the 1980's, 90's and early 2000's. I always run Mobil1 synthetic oil, a Toyota filter and change at 3,000 mile intervals.

Perhaps it really is an overkill and unnecessary thing today as you say even with older OEM turbos like the CT26 and CT12B?
Personally I think it's overkill unless you're doing really hard canyon driving or a track event or similar, and are logging/monitoring oil temps and use a turbo timer to keep the engine running to circulate oil through an oil cooler. I have a few HKS turbo timers that I'll probably install in a couple builds just for nostalgia, though.

@Wreckless @ZaZZn is it better to do both the cam and crank setup or would the crank setup suffice? I've seen some use the stock CPS for the cam sensor, would that be okay also?
Getting an accurate crank sensor and a modern ECU that can read it accurately is about 90% of the battle. Because the ECU will (almost always) use the crank sensor to determine when to trigger ignition timing events, and accurate and consistent ignition timing control is one of the biggest benefits of a modern standalone vs the old TCCS stock ECU.

Personally I prefer to go scorched earth with a modern standalone install and get all new sensors for everything and doing a totally fresh ignition system too, especially if you're having a professional tune the car for you. Nothing worse than doubling or tripling your eventual tuning costs trying to save a couple hundred bucks on a crank sensor or new smart coils from a 1ZZ-FE or similarly holding on to old OEM crap.
 

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For anyone curious one thing that's impressed me with the 7m is the ignition coils. I started to have a miss fire on high boost with the oem vvti coils switched to my old 7mgte setup and it hasn't missed since! This is on e85 and around 30psi making over 800whp. This winter I plan on making a new engine harness and will switch to cop setup.
 
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@Wreckless @ZaZZn is it better to do both the cam and crank setup or would the crank setup suffice? I've seen some use the stock CPS for the cam sensor, would that be okay also?
Cam and crank are needed for sequential injection. If you are OK with batch, no point to get cam setup as well. Since I didn't want to rewire, and the limited savings in fuel for seq over batch I didn't bother.
 
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