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Discussion Starter #1
The car is a 94 Supra turbo automatic with 215k miles. for the third time in two days, the manu light has come on without the button being pressed. The light will turn off if I press the manu button. Drivability does not seem to be affected although only a few miles have been driven since this started.

I checked the transmission fluid level and it is full and perhaps too full as the fluid came all the way to the end of the dip-stick. The radiator is an aftermarket one that has had a slow leak for a year. My concern is that the transmission fluid and the coolant are mixing hence the high dip-stick reading although this has not been confirmed.

I diagnosed for trouble codes and there are none.

All thoughts are welcome. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I removed the ECU and replaced it with the original ECU that I just had refurbished with all new electrolytic capacitors. All the symptoms are now gone. This problem was due to a bad ECU and has been resolved.
 

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Thank you for posting this issue and the solution. Had the same problem changing the capacitors in the main ECU worked for me as well.
 

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94 TT, PHR 6266 on the way, Tanabe DP, MaxAir intake, AEM boost, fuel pressure and afr, MBC, BBS
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Orry to wake this thread after a while..
Wouldn't happen to have the capacitor info you sused would you? Think I'm having the same problem.
 

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This answer to your question is all available in several posts here and other sites. These ECU’s have a handful of capacitors that need to be replaced. Several different values. Let me know if you can’t find it.

It was big news several years ago, not so much anymore as everyone had them repaired or gave up and went stand-alone.

It’s not a hard job, but if you don’t have the right tools or any experience previously, I wouldn’t recommend learning on this project, I say this because, at least with mine, the board was soldered very well.

From the pad, up through the board and even on to the leads on the other side, when you remove the old caps, the hole will back fill and you have to keep wicking or sucking the solder as you walk it out. If you try and pull it through or use a pin to push it you will take the pad off the board. Double PITA if you do have bad caps and they have damaged the board.

Find a reputable shop to do it for you. One with the right parts and experience. I’ve seen some that look like they were in a bar fight after someone tried to repair them and cleaning up someone else mess is never fun.
 

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94 TT, PHR 6266 on the way, Tanabe DP, MaxAir intake, AEM boost, fuel pressure and afr, MBC, BBS
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I had ran across it before. Looking for a proefi also so I may not even fool with it. Idk. We will see. I have relatively good experience soldering and have a nice weller setup. I jut want to be sure I get the correct stuff before I attempt it. Thanks for your response.
 
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