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Discussion Starter #1
I’m planning on finishing my Aristo GTE VVTi swap soon and want to plan my next expensive purchases carefully.

Turbo is a Garret GTX3582R, T4 divided, Radium Twin pump surge tank, stock cams, stock intake. I want to make sure I have enough injector to max out this setup and step up later in turbo. How far will ID1300x injectors get me on this setup? Will be running Flex Fuel stand-alone and preferably racing with the highest grade Ethanol I can get, E98. This is a street car so will also drive on 93 pump from time to time.
 

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Game Over
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I'm on ID1300s with a FP HTA3582, and my car is about 70% IDC on E85 with twin walbro 485's. Car made 660whp at the time.

I'd go larger injectors if you have plans for a larger turbo down the road.
 

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with a bw s366 turbo dual 450 walbro e85 I was at 100% duty cycle at 750whp 30 psi. I traded them for 1650s
 

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Most of the sites to purchase these injectors say anything higher than 1300x will suffer in driveability when using pump 93. That’s why I’m not jumping straight to the 1700x. Is the big injector driveability thing on pump gas a big issue or is it Liveable? There’s a good amount of E85 in south Florida but I’m sure the car will be going on road trips where 93 maybe my only option.
 

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Most of the sites to purchase these injectors say anything higher than 1300x will suffer in driveability when using pump 93. That’s why I’m not jumping straight to the 1700x. Is the big injector driveability thing on pump gas a big issue or is it Liveable? There’s a good amount of E85 in south Florida but I’m sure the car will be going on road trips where 93 maybe my only option.
I think that comes down to your tuner/ECU. I run 2000cc's with my PTE 68/70. driving is perfectly fine for daily cruising.
 

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I read somewhere on the interwebs that one walbro 450 was good for 800 on e85. I'm going tomorrow to do some tuning and I have 1200 cc's installed in my 2jz with a 6466. I'll report back with my numbers tomorrow night.
 

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ID1300s at 85% duty cycle on a PTE 6466 landed me at 600 whp. I think my tuner was very conservative though since it was a remote tune. I'd go 1650's or 2000s if I could go back in time. My second 450 pump kicks on at boost
 

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I read somewhere on the interwebs that one walbro 450 was good for 800 on e85. I'm going tomorrow to do some tuning and I have 1200 cc's installed in my 2jz with a 6466. I'll report back with my numbers tomorrow night.
I would very much like to know this too. i have the hellcat walbro and was told 800/850 on E85 with my 2000's and 6870 wasn't going to happen.
 

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Depending on fuel pressure...I made 830whp on a set of PTE 1270s on 85% ethanol and that was pretty much all they had in them. That was back in 2012.

Steve
 

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High impedance injectors do not suffer driveability issues unless you're using a cheap brand. ID injectors are working great on many high HP cars that are street driven and idle well. It has more to do with having your voltage offsets setup properly and not using a cheap drilled out bosch injector like MANY of the other companies offer. **cough FIC.

edit: also..... if you want to avoid fuckery, I'd suggest not using a system that "turns another pump on" at a certain point. Yes, I know this is going to make people upset that I said this because they are financially and emotionally invested in whatever setup they decided upon. I've seen too many people chase their tails w/ fueling issues when trying to do "cool" over complicated stuff like having a pump that hangs out until it's needed. How would you account for the extra current draw used to power a 2nd pump affecting the rest of the electrical system? Think about it, this affects your voltage offset and if that setting isn't perfect in your ECU you will suffer issues.
 

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High impedance injectors do not suffer driveability issues unless you're using a cheap brand. ID injectors are working great on many high HP cars that are street driven and idle well. It has more to do with having your voltage offsets setup properly and not using a cheap drilled out bosch injector like MANY of the other companies offer. **cough FIC.

edit: also..... if you want to avoid fuckery, I'd suggest not using a system that "turns another pump on" at a certain point. Yes, I know this is going to make people upset that I said this because they are financially and emotionally invested in whatever setup they decided upon. I've seen too many people chase their tails w/ fueling issues when trying to do "cool" over complicated stuff like having a pump that hangs out until it's needed. How would you account for the extra current draw used to power a 2nd pump affecting the rest of the electrical system? Think about it, this affects your voltage offset and if that setting isn't perfect in your ECU you will suffer issues.
I'd have to disagree with you here. That's practically the only way to do it without investing in expensive external pumps, surge tanks, etc. There is no reason to avoid setting up your fuel system to activate the 2nd or 3rd pump based on boost pressure, rpm, or whatever trigger you want to use as long as the rest of your systems are set up to handle it. The newer fuel pumps that we are using today actually require less demand of your electrical system than they did years ago due to technology upgrades - both electrical and internal hard parts/design. Running 2 or 3 pumps full time is actually detrimental as you are placing that load full time on your systems-you're overheating the fuel-you could possibly cause fuel pressure issues if you have too much fuel flowing to the injectors and not enough return, and you'll wear out pumps prematurely. I've been a member here since 2002 and there have been literally hundreds of threads on this forum where guys couldn't figure out their fuel issues. Come to find out, most of them were trying to run 2 or 3 pumps full time and that was their issue. Once they corrected that, everything went back to normal.

Steve
 

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^^ Agree with Steve.
 

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I didn't get to tune like I thought I was because I'm having voltage problems. My new alternator isn't holding voltage like I thought it would. Turns out I've got to do a bigger cable from battery to block and see if that helps me. Under wot my voltage is dropping to 11.5 and my injectors along with a few other things don't like that.
 

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handy with the steel
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I've seen too many people chase their tails w/ fueling issues when trying to do "cool" over complicated stuff like having a pump that hangs out until it's needed. How would you account for the extra current draw used to power a 2nd pump affecting the rest of the electrical system? Think about it, this affects your voltage offset and if that setting isn't perfect in your ECU you will suffer issues.
It's true you need to have the injector offsets correct, but if you're having fueling issues and you don't have this information entered correctly, then that is the reason. Blaming it on voltage drop due to staged pumps kicking on is like blaming ignition timing issues on drift when you never had the sync reference set up correctly in the first place. Nonsense. Most quality injector companies provide this data, but it's up to the tuner to enter it correctly, and if not that's on the tthem.

Staging pumps is not "over complicated", and in fact I'd go so far as to say it's pretty much SOP for street cars making big horsepower on E85.
 

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I didn't get to tune like I thought I was because I'm having voltage problems. My new alternator isn't holding voltage like I thought it would. Turns out I've got to do a bigger cable from battery to block and see if that helps me. Under wot my voltage is dropping to 11.5 and my injectors along with a few other things don't like that.
You actually need to replace the cable that goes from the alternator to the fuse box. PHR sets a nice kit. It's not cheap, but it's very high quality.

Steve
 
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