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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I figured after all of these years of owning this car I would go ahead and start a build page.... Here is just some photos to show the current condition:
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cleaned up and painted the rear subframe with truck bed liner.
Running the following for the rear set up:

Half of the energy suspension poly kit
Energy Suspension Poly Ball Joint Dust Boots
ST Suspension Sway Bars (New OEM Bolts)
Battle Version Sway Bar End Links
Battle Version Toe Links
Battle Version Traction Links
Battle Version Camber Links
New OEM Spherical Bushing
Ronnie K Yellow Subframe Bushings
New OEM wheel Bearings and Seals
Tien Flex Coilovers with EDFC controllers.
New OEM Camber / Eccentric Bolts
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Currently my R154 is at Driftmotion being rebuilt with the following:
MC Urethane Shifter bushing
MC 1-2 Shift Fork
MC 3-4 Shift Fork
MC 5-R Shift Fork
MC Shifter Socket
MC Thrust Washer
MC Heavy Duty Bearing Retainer
New OEM Output Seal
New OEM Slave Cylinder
New OEM Pilot Bearing
Fidanza light weight fly wheel
ARP Flywheel Bolts
ACT HD Stage 4 Clutch and pressure plate
New OEM Rear Main Seal
Ford Ranger Carrier Bearing Replacement
Stainless Clutch Line
Jim King Short shifter
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
This part is a bit older but just talks a bit about some of the other things done:

Driftmotion 6262 Single Turbo kit wit .70 AR W/ DEI Exhaust header wrap
DEI Titanium Turbo Blanket
Tial 46mm Wastegate
HKS SSQV BOV (W gold insert)
New OEM Exhaust studs
Walbro 255 FP
Aeromotive FPR kit
Bosch 550cc Injectors (With new pigtails)

AEM V2 with Driftmotion patch harness
AEM Truboost
AEM AIT sensor (relocated to IC piping, stock hole plugged)
AEM 3 Bar Map Sensor
AEM UEGO Wideband
AEM Oil Pressure Gauge and Sensor
AEM Fuel Pressure Sensor
New braided / twisted shielded crank and signal wires.
New braided / twisted shielded knock sensor wires.
New OEM Coil Packs (With New Pig Tails)

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't have a photo of the front suspension, but here is what we are looking like for the front:
Energy Suspension Poly Bushings
New OEM Lower Ball Joint
ST Suspension Sway Bars (New OEM Bolts)
Battle Version Sway Bar End Links
Battle Version Tie Rod Ends
New OEM Steering rack bushings
New OEM Camber / Eccentric Bolts
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Blitz Turbo Timer
Koyo Radiator (With Blitz cap and Samco hoses)
Blitz oil filler cap
Greddy Cam Gears
New OEM Valve stem seals
Milled down USDM 2J cams
Greddy Timing Belt
2J Re-enforced Motor Mounts
Stainless Powersteering line, Hydro Fan pressure line, and Fuel dampner Bypass hose
5Zigen FN01R-C
JDM tails, corner markers, and fog lights.
New OEM Targa Seals
JDM Rain Gaurds
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Some more updates:

Subframe is in the car now which is awesome.
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Did some more work on my manifold (Working on polishing it)
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Took some time to clean up and paint some heat shields
and made a mounting bracket for my Ford Ranger carrier bearing

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Some progress... I just picked my transmission up from Driftmotion with the previous listed upgrades, this also includes the replacement of two sliders which cost me an extra $140 total. Labor was $461 and the rest of the parts came out to $767.96 for a grand total of $1368.96. The first few photos are what was causing my 1-2 grinding at high RPM's, the slider's tips were grinded down which made for a rough engagement under WOT. On a side note the bearings all felt and looked good.

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Getting the tranny mounted was easy and I spent a good amount of time getting everything else put back on to include my newly modified Ford Ranger carrier bearing. Here's a list of what went down:

Mounted the rebuilt / upgraded tranny (Spend about 5 hours cleaning it up).
Changed out the Clutch Slave for a new OEM unit
Mounted the ACT pressure plate and Stage 4 clutch
Installed the drive shaft
Installed a bunch of heat shields that I had removed for painting
Cleaned up and installed the starter
and finally installed a few other random things that needed to get done. I also ran into an issue where one of my transmission bolts walked off... But a friend of mine was able to hook it up with another one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is there a way you can fix that turbo drain line so it is more horizontal?

What manifold?

The right answer is yes, I just haven't gotten around to doing it. Once I finish the forever project (Polishing my intake manifold) the plan was to do that and remove the compressor housing so I could get that a bit more polish as well. Keen eye on ya.

Oh and it's the Driftmotion manifold.
 

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Nice!

Clock the turbo properly up and down and bend a welding wire in a shape that would make the drain. That wire would help you position the new hardline and then you can use that as a template. I had that same manifold but you might have to come off the turbo with a slight angle and then come straight down.

Summit and Jegs has T4 extended drains you can buy and modify from there. It helps as you can just cut it and reposition where you want to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'll upload photos once I get home. Lots of progress was made....

1. Everything was installed and I cleaned up a lot of vac lines.
2. Did a partial wire tuck and moved my Fuel Pump relay into the fender well.
3. Fix an exhaust leak from not installing my V-band correctly (The stud sticks up too high which prevented a proper seal)
4. While installing the harness I broke both clips for the knock and cam position sensors, ordered new connectors and replaced them)
5. Did my warm up cycle for the tranny with the car on the Jacks, everything shifted smoothly and checked out.
6. Went to drive it the next day and couldn't get it into gear, I would try and put it in gear with the clutch in and car running and the motor rpm's would drop. Turned the motor off and pressed the clutch in and went through the gears no problem. Started the car in first gear with the clutch pushed in and I felt the clutch release and I was able to properly shift no problem. After putting some thought into it I have a conclusion to the issue: Because the clutch and flywheel are new I believe the bedding material causing the clutch to stick and just needed some love to get it to break free.

Car now runs smooth and shifts great! I love the new clutch and can't complain about anything I've done to the car. Other than 1 leak I found (coolant) everything worked great, I even boost leak tested it and had zero boost leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nice!

Clock the turbo properly up and down and bend a welding wire in a shape that would make the drain. That wire would help you position the new hardline and then you can use that as a template. I had that same manifold but you might have to come off the turbo with a slight angle and then come straight down.

Summit and Jegs has T4 extended drains you can buy and modify from there. It helps as you can just cut it and reposition where you want to.
corrected! It took a while to get everything lined up but she's all good to go. I think she has a 5 degree angle if that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Sadly things have take a turn for he worst... This morning after driving I was getting ready to merge and did a small pull at 3/4 throttle at only 13-14 psi of boost (Max is set at 17) and after shifting into second gear my heart sank. It sounded like a subbie and sounded as if I dropped two cylinders. Everything looked normal to include Oil Pressure, Coolant temp, and AFRs.... I got her towed home and i'm pretty sure she is knocking now. Now to start figuring out what is going on.... If anyone here has done a 1J build please post on here, I have questions. This is the second saddest day I've had this year, the first one was finding out my wife has Breast Cancer so i'm ready for this shit year to be over with.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
New plan is in place for a 1.5J, I got a hold of a NA 2J block that looks pretty good. It came out of a 2005 Lexus IS300 with about 200k miles. After inspecting the block everything looked good on the inside to include the head. The head was VERY CLEAN and the coolant was fresh looking and clear. There was some carbon build up on the OEM GE pistons but the cylinders looked great with zero pits or with the factory hone marks still visible. I also got a hold of a good set of JDM GTE Pistons and rods.

The plan is the following:
1. Get the block inspected by my machine shop and hone the cylinders
2. Deck the Block
3. Deck the Head
4. Pressure test the valves and inspect valve guides.
5. Blue print the motor and balance the crank shaft.
6. Clean and Paint the block.
7. Clean the Head and then re-assemble everything.
8. Replace all seals and bearings.
9. Install ARP main, rod and head studs.
10. Send it!

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Sorry to hear about the 1j, was only one plug closed like that? How aggressive was your tune (timing) and what were your AFR's like? I would say without a doubt that cylinder saw detonation.

Also is that a mark on top of the piston? Same cylinder the plug came out of?
 
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