edit because pics did work

 

Back in the day...

Valve seals, Titan 264 cams, knock off Greddy plenum (get to that again later), treadstone t4 manifold, T04S (because i had one ), Billet Tbelt tensioner bracket

powder coated crossmembers and control arms. fabricated a "Power Brace" (as the s chassis people refer to it), Energy Suspension full kit, TEIN Springs, 8AN fuel lines, custom fuel pump hanger (running 1 aeromotive stealth for now, but I should be able to fit 3 on the hanger if needed)

I did a small writeup on the knock off Greddy plenum here:
https://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?743073-Inside-the-knock-off-Greddy-intake-plenum

Ran the setup for 10K or so, first with a Spec clutch and then with an ACT setup. Then one day on a high rpm shift into 3rd:
THRUST WASHER FAILURE

 

After the thrust bearing failure on the aristo bottom end I stole the heart of a lexus for a block and crank. The last setup didnt look too bad, but I did not want to risk it. At a minimum it would have required adding material to the crankshaft thrust surface. I will use the NA block and crank for the base of my build up.

Check out that Tbelt^, this dude was running on faith for sure

So the lower end will go as follows:
* Complete proper cleaning (all oil gallery balls removed)
* ARP main stud kit
* Line hone
* Bored (20 over/86.5mm)
* Manley I beams
* CP pistons (9:1 compression, upgraded wristpins)
* Modified oem oil pump

 

more

After the thrust washer failure I decided to go for less clamping force which meant a multi-disk clutch. Ended up going with an exedy twin disk intended for the 1jz.

Tore down the stock valve train.

Soda blasted the head to get it ready for the build up:

My kid is going to handle the valve lashing for me:

The head build up will include:
* Toyota Shimless Buckets 13751-46200 5.40mm (24)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1498P (x12)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1499P (x12)
* Ferrea Beehive spring S2021 (x24)
* Ferrea Titanium Retainer E12029 (x24)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1035 (x12)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1034 (x12)

 

Nice build, love 2jz S chassis. So light and quick. Sucks about what happened to your motor.

 

I am using an act clutch with my setup... was there any hints or symptoms that it was about to crankwalk? what kinda power have you mad with your old setup?

 

Its not about the power its about the clamping force increase over stock (my opinion). I never depressed the clutch when starting, and i did not hold it in at lights etc. (i.e. when oil pressure is down).

 

I know that it isn't power . I practice the same thing with not using my clutch when idling in traffic or while cranking . I was just wondering what power you have made or track times with your setup. have you ever weighted your car? I am at 2850 without me in the car

 

My bad... I have not weighed this one yet, but I have weighed some of my previous chassis. What has been done to yours for weight reduction?

Some of the things to get down pretty low are not very safe for a street car. Off the top of my head this one has:
* Unneeded bracket removal throughout, even the tack welded ones
* Gutted dash, AC delete
* No insulation / sound dampening (added bed liner to the floor pan once it was stripped)
* No audio
* No front bumper support
* Custom fabricated rear bumper support, more like a bar (this is probably not safe with the stock gas tank)
* Custom front chassis harness (literally lighting and headlight motors only)
* Custom minimal rear harness
* Custom power supply routing / fuse box
* Antenna delete
* Manual seat belts from a 180sx (deleted all of the auto seat belt stuff)
* Custom ECU harness
* Carbon hood
* Smaller battery mounted on the rear passenger corner
* No interior panels except the dash, none (sprayed it all black so it doesn’t look like shit)
* No 2jz AC compressor / bracket, (shorter belt)

As far as the the crank walk,there wasn’t any tell tale signs or anything prior. The car ran great for the 100 yards I drove it afterwards as well. If I was uneducated on the matter I probably would have drove it to total destruction. Once they had shot out there was a pulsation in the clutch pedal and the rpms would bog down when you depressed the clutch, but the car ran fine right to the end.

 

More preperation

Full gasket kit, modified oil pump, ARP head studs

Sport 2000: The custom ecu harness I fabbed has a breakout near the ecu so I can switch between different units with just 6 Deutsch connectors. ( I will show all that when I get around to installing everything again)

(MR2 shimless bucket conversion, machined billet locks) vs (stock lifter, shim / stock locks)

(OEM) vs (Ferrea stock sized comp plus, behives, titanium retainers)

 

Looks good, how long was it going before the bottom
End failure

 

2 years ~10000 miles.

 

I had the same thing happen 2 years about 6,000 miles.

 

I don't have any major weight reduction in mine other then no spare, cut front bumper support, lightweight battery, and no A/C. Some of the sound material has been removed but the dash was never pulled to get all of it.
I like your choice in ECU btw.

What made you go with the exedy twin? Do you know what the tq capacity is?

 

The clutch is supposively rated for 937tq (p/n TM032SD stage4). I expect it to sound like a piece of garbage though.

I would like to exchange maps once I get around to seriously tuning the Sport 2000. I will eventualy run the LS coil conversion and ID 1000's. I am using the VE method

 

I am not using VE tuning yet. But I do have mine setup ok so far. (have some trans throttle issues to iron out) I have my head off and putting GSC stage 2 cams with their standered springs + titanium retainers so before I spend alot of time on getting trans throttle setup I want get the cams in. My car hasn't been dynoed in years (Did 450 whp @ 15 psi on pump with an old cast 67mm) I did get one trip to the track last summer and ran a 12.2 @ 129 on my first pass without launching te car. I never got another clean run since cars keeped blowing up. If you have any questions about the haltech let me know. I have been self tuning mine for the past 5 years. I also have a ton of terminals for the haltech ecu if you need to run any extra circuits.

 

Good to know, any chance you would be willing to share you current map so I can compare it with the base?

Did you get the 240's tach working with the haltech's DPO? I assume I can just use the settings from the 180sx map (4 pulses, 20% duty cycle, 5v).

How well did your car run on the base map? I am thinking to break in the new engine with the Aristo ecu first.

I will stay in touch when I get closer to running the Haltech. Thanks

 

Ok so this is a little vague, but it might help others who are considering fabricating an ECU harness. I will elaborate on this more once I get everything back together.

Essentially I created a new harness from scratch using new Toyota and Deutsch connectors wrapped in Techflex braided wire cover. I also used MIL spec shielded wire for the crank, cam, and knock sensors. The harness has a breakout near the ECU that allows you to switch between ecus without unplugging anything else. I also added breakouts for an Apexi AVCr and a Zeitronix wideband controller.

The pics below are from the planning of the harness, I will post some pictures of the actual harness when I pull it out of the car again. I ran the harness for about 1500 miles with good results so far.

Some notes:
Toyota Color: Wire color/pin from stock Aristo Ecu harness
Engine Color: Wire color in my fabricated harness
Haltech Color: Sport 2000 flying lead harness wire color

NOTE: Ignore the pin numbers in the second picture. The tables shown in the bottom image is how I actually laid the harness out.

 

mgps13, you should just get the Haltech RacePak IQ3. It automatically connects to your PS2000 and you won't need to have a cluster of gauges, outdated cluster, as well as a blackbox to read the speed.

 

I imagine that would be nice for $750. It will be a while though as I am trying to keep the budget down. The long block build up is painful enough. I will be seeking a set of ID1000's and an LS coil conversion first. Also a turbo not limited to 550... sigh

Here is what I have dumped into the longblock build already, shits not cheap...
Used 2jzge
Modified 2jz oil pump
Manley Turbo Tuff I Beam rod set pn 14402-6 (640 grams, stock ~760)
CP piston package 86.5mm 9:1 compression pn SC7464 (w added upgraded wristpin package)
Clevite bearings
2jz ARP head stud kit pn 203-4205
2jz full oem toyota gasket set
Fluidampr Pully
2JZ ARP main kit
Exedy dual plate clutch pn TM032SD
Toyota Shimless Buckets 13751-46200 5.40mm (24)
Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1498P (x12)
Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1499P (x12)
Ferrea Beehive spring S2021 (x24)
Ferrea titanium retainer E12029 (x24)
Ferrea valve guide VG1035 (x12)
Ferrea valve guide VG1034 (x12)
Manley valve locks (x24 pairs)

 

When I wired mine up I used the connectors from the incomplete harness I had and used the haltech flying lead harness.
Check your inbox ..

 

Very nice!

 

Awesome build! Can't wait to see it running again!

 

Nice setup! looking forward to seeing it back together!

 

short block assembled

 

looks awesome .

 

I am in the process of reviewing a couple of greddy knock off divided T4 manifolds. The Godspeed was the first (FAIL):
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...showthread.php?751593-Godspeed-Divided-T4-Manifold-Review&p=9860729#post9860729

 

This is a great example keep it up man. Subscribed.

 

Oil pump and #1 (upper) oil pan

Finaly got some time to get a few things done:

Went with a modified GTE oil pump from Powerhouse:

#1 oil pan prepped as follows: (soap/water, aluminum acid wash, soda blast, wash well again, WD40 on bare alumium surfaces to prevent oxidation, 500deg cermic paint for external surfaces only):

 

Reviewed an OBX t4 manifold:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...forum/showthread.php?755313-OBX-Divided-T-Manifold-Review&p=9910217#post9910217

Probably will run the OBX once I get it cleaned up.