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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all
Looking to upgrade a 1985 supra. So far its all stock except for a conical air filter mounted directly to the MAF. The plan is to bend up to some tubing and get rid off all the nasty intake tubing up to the intake plenum. Then run some new exhaust from the manifold back. I am in michigan so no emissions testing. Was thinking 2.5 inch exhaust all the way back. What muffler would sound good? I want it to be quiet when you are cruising but loud when ya want it to be. I dont mind a little engine noise going down the road but dont want an obnoxious drone. Also some new shocks and lowering springs from Raptor racing are in the works. Is there any other cheap mods would make a difference performance or handling wise? Anything that i listed that is a waste of time? Also i remember reading somewhere that there is an upgraded bushing for the shifter but i cant seem to find anything on this anymore.
Thanks
Paul
 

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Welcome to the site. Marlin Crawler for the shifter bushings. I personally like the sound of a magnaflow muffler on a 5m. Check all the bushings in the suspension and replace any that are worn.
 

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There is a AFM hack for the 5M. Basically you move the gear a few teeth and it tricks the ECU into thinking you need more fuel. I had intake and exhaust on my MK2 and it ran like crap until I did the AFM hack. Since it is a flapper type AFM it maxes out when full open, so even if you are flowing more air, the ECU doesn't know to give more fuel. BE VERY CAREFULL YOU DONT LET GO OF THE GEAR!!!

http://www.tscperformance.com/supra_airflow.html
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cool thanks I will have to do that this spring when it comes out of storage. Is it a pretty noticeable difference with intake exhaust and the Afr mod? I noticed a small diff with the intake.
 

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There is a AFM hack for the 5M. Basically you move the gear a few teeth and it tricks the ECU into thinking you need more fuel. I had intake and exhaust on my MK2 and it ran like crap until I did the AFM hack. Since it is a flapper type AFM it maxes out when full open, so even if you are flowing more air, the ECU doesn't know to give more fuel. BE VERY CAREFULL YOU DONT LET GO OF THE GEAR!!!
Not really effective, more of a 'feal good' mod.
The ECU reads voltage change, so after a few days of running, it's reading the same amount of change that it did before.
I could go into detail, on using a lighter rate spring, and the mods you have to do, both to the AFM it's self, and using a piggy-back, like a S-AFC, and fuel pressure to get everything right. but it still won't amount to much.
The only way to get real gains is with cams & compression.
Unfortunately cams & high compression pistons cost a lot, if you can even find them any longer.

Better off just saving up, and doing a JDM 2JZ single turbo swap.
It will cost you less than building NA power on an out of date engine, with no aftermarket support.
 

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Not really effective, more of a 'feal good' mod.
The ECU reads voltage change, so after a few days of running, it's reading the same amount of change that it did before.
I could go into detail, on using a lighter rate spring, and the mods you have to do, both to the AFM it's self, and using a piggy-back, like a S-AFC, and fuel pressure to get everything right. but it still won't amount to much.
The only way to get real gains is with cams & compression.
Unfortunately cams & high compression pistons cost a lot, if you can even find them any longer.

Better off just saving up, and doing a JDM 2JZ single turbo swap.
It will cost you less than building NA power on an out of date engine, with no aftermarket support.
Speaking of 5m performance parts I've heard there was a 3.1 liter stroke that was used in some race boats. Do you know anything about that.
 

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Wouldn't doubt it.
HKS made 7M pistons that made 3.1 liter (85mm bore).
So a 7M crank with a big bore kit will do it.
Probably easier just to use a 7M short block in the first place.
The crank nose will need to be cut down to match the 5M cam drive pieces.

The guy who was the driving force behind ToySport (now passed away) always said that the 5M head was better for forced induction anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys. Not really looking for anything insane. Just wanting to have the power to beat/run with all the k20 Hondas around. It just needs a little pick me up.
 

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Toss the AFM, spend $300 for a MAP-ECU-1.
Then you have to get rid of the smallish throttle, get something in at least the 70mm size, or larger.
This means fabrication/machine/welding work. I've adapted several used BBK throttles to the 7M, but it's always a chore to get throttle linkage & TPS adapted, and I have machine shop equipment.
Larger fuel pump, at least a stock one from the 7M Cressida/Mk-II Supra (same pump).
An adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
Adjustable cam gears.
A light weight flywheel.

So, with that, you are over $700-ish to get maybe 25-50 more ponies.
Compare that to a $1500 used 1JZ/2JZ single turbo out of Japan, $500 for intercooler & piping, more down time, more fab work, but twice the power.
 

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Toss the AFM, spend $300 for a MAP-ECU-1.
Then you have to get rid of the smallish throttle, get something in at least the 70mm size, or larger.
This means fabrication/machine/welding work. I've adapted several used BBK throttles to the 7M, but it's always a chore to get throttle linkage & TPS adapted, and I have machine shop equipment.
Larger fuel pump, at least a stock one from the 7M Cressida/Mk-II Supra (same pump).
An adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
Adjustable cam gears.
A light weight flywheel.

So, with that, you are over $700-ish to get maybe 25-50 more ponies.
Compare that to a $1500 used 1JZ/2JZ single turbo out of Japan, $500 for intercooler & piping, more down time, more fab work, but twice the power.
you're kidding me right?? you can't get a "used 1JZ/2JZ single turbo out of Japan" for $1500. the bell housing, flywheel, mount brackets, and lines is gonna get you close to $1000 alone. the cheapest option is to get a 1jz and run it stock but thats still going to take a good 3k ish. doing a single set up can add a good amount depending on the turbo you get. shit a efr turbo alone is 2k. so you're wrong lol

to the op sounds like you're on the right track. don't forget the basics though plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, ect will make a big difference when not old and worn out. same with suspension sway bar bushing and steering rack bushing can transform how a car turns in and handles compared to blown out ones. just get the car running good with some basic mods. then if you really like the chassis look into a swap cause i don't think your gonna be beating any k20 civics with a n/a my buddies autox k20 civic hatch isn't even that modded and runs high 12's with slicks!
 

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Dont bother with a map ecu on a 5m ecu. it will cause more problems than it solves. Get a megasquirt 2 or higher. Honestly, a n/a 2jz-ge out of a gs300(already front sump) would be a better swap to start with. With header, exhaust, and intake, your ~200rwhp. Much more than the stock 130ish rwhp(if the motor is running tip top). Then later you can go na-t on the 2jz if more power is desired. Reground cams for the 2jzge are cheap, porting the head makes a fair difference, turbo makes a HUGE difference. If going turbo, again, I recommend a Megasquirt 2 or higher. Install it while the motor is N/A and learn to tune it etc.. before going turbo. This will save your motor as learning to tune while already turbo leaves much more room for disaster.
 

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For a stock 5MGE,the intake side will have the most bang for the buck.Headers,not so much below 4,000 RPM.
Yeah,the AFM is restrictive.
A decent aftermarket intake tube has a real 'seat of the pants' torque difference!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The STOCK air filter is fine. The aftermarket air filters are maybe less restrictive... BUT:
Too bad that a lot of the air it gets is from the radiator side of the engine compartment(MOSTLY)
Think about a C.A.I set up.
At the lower valance:
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t345/ddd228/temporary_zpsdkfqsmrx.jpg~original
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t345/ddd228/temporary_zps9hxn1exw.jpg~original
Also,think about intake air that is just above the exhaust manifold.It get kinda warm,eh?Insulate it.
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t345/ddd228/temporary_zpsgfoehsbn.jpg~original
Timing is better @ 14*. EGR is a good thing.
You won't get to stomp on any Honduh's with the stock 5m-GE.
Our fuel injection system is from the 80's.
Our cars are built with REAL sheet metal.
 

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Very cool ram air system, Dave!
 

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IF I was a better sheet metal person,that CAI would be built with 4" aluminum dryer vent!!!!
@ 100MPH,it would blow up the stock air box. Maybe 4 PSI. I wouldn't know how to measure the pressure increase,just the temp.

The cool thing would be to put a temp probe at the TB and see what that showed.
Then, see what the probe read at the air intake tube. The IAT sensor knows knows ,but I don't.
Use an infa-red sensor on your intake tubes after a hot soak. INSANE.
The vented hoods are a GOOD thing.
 
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