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That said, there are some companies that make a very good cast wheel (Enkei, for one) that can come close to matching the performance of a forged wheel. The flipside is that matching the correct widths and offsets for a JZA80 is challenging at best, and most wheels offered come in a 9.5in width at best with Supra-friendly offsets.
I've run Enkei wheels for ages now, never had a problem at all.

First were the RP01 - long since discontinued, boy they were a pretty wheel - I forget the specs
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Then RZ5 - more aggressive meatier look 18x8.5 +42 and 18x9.5 +42. Lots of track weekends on these.
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Those were both on Eibach lowering springs and KYB AGX Pro shocks. I went to Tein coilovers and Brembo brakes, and the RZ5 didn't fit any more dangit.

So on to Enkei PF01 silver in 18x9.5 +45 and 18x10.5 +38 (these are for sale BTW - see forsale forum)
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And finally Enkei PF01 black in 18x9.5 +45 and 18x10.5 +48 (custom)
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Decolte Evos BBK
Hey, Ken. I'm not sure about clearing a big brake kit. I have stock brakes and it's pretty tight in the front. I special ordered my wheels back in 2002-ish. It took a couple months to get them. I love them. The deep dish in the rear really sets it off. The bright-anodize lip really popped when they were new.

But unfortunately, @Wreckless, I certainly have the right to call them fragile! After being told by a tire shop that my high-speed shimmy is a result of 4 bent rims, lightly driven and never knowingly impacted pot-holes, train-tracks, etc... my thoughts are to shy away from 3-piece switch to a nice forged 1-piece. I'm digging the copper/gunmetal look. I'll check again, but a couple years ago, every rim shop told me they would not break down a 3-piece wheel due to legal issues. Idunnknow.
 

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Hey, Ken. I'm not sure about clearing a big brake kit. I have stock brakes and it's pretty tight in the front. I special ordered my wheels back in 2002-ish. It took a couple months to get them. I love them. The deep dish in the rear really sets it off. The bright-anodize lip really popped when they were new.

But unfortunately, @Wreckless, I certainly have the right to call them fragile! After being told by a tire shop that my high-speed shimmy is a result of 4 bent rims, lightly driven and never knowingly impacted pot-holes, train-tracks, etc... my thoughts are to shy away from 3-piece switch to a nice forged 1-piece. I'm digging the copper/gunmetal look. I'll check again, but a couple years ago, every rim shop told me they would not break down a 3-piece wheel due to legal issues. Idunnknow.
I may not have been very clear - aluminum ages and gets more brittle as it flexes. Just because you don't feel it in the car does not mean the wheel barrels are not bending slightly as road forces are being applied, particularly in high G turns or various bumps/thumps in the road etc. The thinner the sidewall of the tire the more pronounced this becomes and the more it beats up the wheels with less of an impact. Every time that aluminum flexes it gets slightly more brittle. This is why aircraft airframes and similar structures log flight hours and rebuild wing spars etc based on flight hours. Any aluminum wheel or aluminum alloy wheel suffers the same.

Quality forged 3pc wheels are just as strong as forged monoblock wheels, they just tend to be heavier. Old TE37's and old forged wheels from the 90's (Blitz, SSR, etc) routinely have cracked or bent lips and barrels for the same reason.

Bottom line, you have old wheels and old aluminum bends/cracks a lot easier. Fragile now from age/use does not mean fragile overall. Might seem pedantic but it's important to understand that going to a forged monoblock wheel doesn't magically make the physical properties of forged aluminum any different.

But you certainly can't go wrong with a quality forged monoblock wheel, or a quality Japanese made cast wheel such as Enkei's higher end stuff.
 

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Chip,

I never saw your pics until I recently came back to this thread. Was not receiving notifications when you posted but, magically, I began receiving them of late. Wow! After all these years, my brother took the plunge! Like you going APU all those years ago, it does strike me that "good things come to those who wait". GREAT addition to the car, my friend.


Ken.

I move at a deliberate pace. Like a tortoise, but slower. :)

R/Chip
 

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Beautiful wheels on your rides, gentlemen.

I like them all. Will definitely get OG wheels when our budget permits.



Rishi

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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The newly-listed TE37 Saga S-plus lineup offers an 18x11 with a +45 offset and the 'Face 5' maximum concave look:
Front fitment is nicely met with an 18x9.5 +38 Face-3 or an 18x10 +35 Face 4.
A touch more aggressive but I bet those would fit nicely with minimal fender mods.

 

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Jeff,

Interesting that Rays felt the need to make a stronger version of the TE37 to handle the weight, AWD and power of modern platforms.

Chip
 
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Jeff,

Interesting that Rays felt the need to make a stronger version of the TE37 to handle the weight, AWD and power of modern platforms.

Chip
Chip, I thought so too. But it does make sense. Tech has also advanced with AL forging so it's a natural thing to improve their flagship forged monoblock wheels along with it.
I'm curious though to see how many of those make it overseas, most Rays Engineering distributors seem to order repeats of the same old same old - I'm told that the very last 18in 'OG' TE37's were made in Supra spec just like you bought. I am not sure if those will keep being offered via special order, or if Rays will nudge distributors toward buying the new stuff they're offering.
 

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A set of 18x11 +45 & 18x10 +35 would be interesting for someone to try and squeeze past the stock fenders. The diamond black looks good.
 

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A set of 18x11 +45 & 18x10 +35 would be interesting for someone to try and squeeze past the stock fenders. The diamond black looks good.
From anecdotal experience examining the fitment of the 18x9.5/18x10.5 Supra sizing, I don't believe the 18x11/18x10 sizing offered by the TE37 Saga S-Plus will clear stock fenders without cutting/rolling the stock rears and the typical Steve Jarvis mods on the fronts.
With adjustable control arms and conservative tire sizing it is probably possible, but IMHO the whole net gain of going to an 18x11 would be the having an ideal rear width for a 305/35 or 305/40 drag radial or R888R or similar 'big power' tire. For a streetable 285/35 or similar the 10.5 width works great.
 

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Agree that running a narrower than ideal tire just to fit a wider wheel makes little sense. I'm happy with the fitment of the OG Supra-specific TE37s, the 265/285 combo works very well from a aesthetic and functional standpoint.
 

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Keeping it OG @ over 200k miles for now, Volk GT-N w/ .5 rear spacer. View attachment 256130
Love those wheels. I was after them for my MKIII but didn't get my BBK fitment template in time (was inaccurate anyway). In the meantime, you did the right thing and snagged them 🙂. Was glad to see them go to a good home 👍.


Ken.
 
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