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Captain Hammer
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I had let Rick know the details but we had a customer vehicle with a set of coils, we had a AEM V2 with Chase bay harness. Had major sync issues. He sent us a set of brackets and it seemed we would have to modify them greatly to even get them in the head. So I wrapped the 5 and 6 coil with a very tight wrapping of metal screen (like window screen) to create a faraday cage style shield. No more sync issues and the car is running happily now.
 

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I had let Rick know the details but we had a customer vehicle with a set of coils, we had a AEM V2 with Chase bay harness. Had major sync issues. He sent us a set of brackets and it seemed we would have to modify them greatly to even get them in the head. So I wrapped the 5 and 6 coil with a very tight wrapping of metal screen (like window screen) to create a faraday cage style shield. No more sync issues and the car is running happily now.
I guess a sync issue could be the issue at this point, will an SRT sensor fix this? should i put the metal brackets back on the 5 and 6 coils?
 

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Since hearing from raven97990 I have tried wrapping the coils with 2 layers of self- adhesive copper tape, then applying 2" shrink tubing. Using a stock cam sensor as input to an oscilloscope the EMI was greatly reduced or eliminated. This is a shielding method that is more compact than the steel brackets and will provide a measure of heat insulation also.

If you have a sync loss issue the hall sensor is pretty much immune. I have verified this with my test setup.

Still, the issue of the newer series coils exists - They just do not have the performance of the older OEM parts.

The resistance readings do not give a good measure of the condition of the coils as the primary of the coils itself and the output section of the igniter have no external access. The best way to test is making a pulsed input and firing a plug, while measuring charge and output currents.
 

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Time to revive this thread!

I was getting break up up top at 25psi+ on BRK7E gapped at .028" so I dropped in a new set of plugs gapped down to .022" and the break up is now felt in the lower rpms up through the rev range. Talk about annoying! I am not sure of a good/easy way to test my coils but I need to fix this issue. I may try the wrapped approach since I have the metal shields on "used" mojo coils but have no issues starting the car due to EMI.

Any suggestions are welcome!
 

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Time to revive this thread!

I was getting break up up top at 25psi+ on BRK7E gapped at .028" so I dropped in a new set of plugs gapped down to .022" and the break up is now felt in the lower rpms up through the rev range. Talk about annoying! I am not sure of a good/easy way to test my coils but I need to fix this issue. I may try the wrapped approach since I have the metal shields on "used" mojo coils but have no issues starting the car due to EMI.

Any suggestions are welcome
PM sent.
 

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Thanks!

What is the specific year, engine, for the LQ9's? Do they only come from the 6.0?
 

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Time to revive this thread!

I was getting break up up top at 25psi+ on BRK7E gapped at .028" so I dropped in a new set of plugs gapped down to .022" and the break up is now felt in the lower rpms up through the rev range. Talk about annoying! I am not sure of a good/easy way to test my coils but I need to fix this issue. I may try the wrapped approach since I have the metal shields on "used" mojo coils but have no issues starting the car due to EMI.

Any suggestions are welcome!
I am experiencing a similar issue. Getting Slight spark blowout below 6krpm at 29+psi. Running NGK2668(Bkr8eix)@.021 and also same issue on Denso [email protected] After 6k rpm its fine up to about 32psi.
Tried running Dwell from 2.8-3.6ms with no change. Also tried anther set of used Lq9 coils with same result. I will note that My particular car is close to 11.0:1 c/r, VVTI and makes about 800ft tq down below 5krpm. Maybe the compression and torque is exaggerating the spark issues. I have in the past run the lq9 coils on my old 2jz mustang, 3.2ms dwell, [email protected] and 32psi at about 1050whp with no issues. Although that car only made just about 700tq.

Lawrence
 

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Just did some testing with my coils, I had a set that I completely removed the metal bracket and ran for 1.5-2 years with no issue.

I switched to a set that still had the metal brackets that I had to obviously grind down. After about 3 months of them, they developed a misfire in higher than 20lbs of boost.

I threw my old non bracket set in and the missfire was gone.

I think the heat from the head touching the metal brackets soaked into those could and killed them. I'm willing to bet that the best combo is non bracket coils with digital sensors to not be disrupted by EMI.
Thats what Iv been running for 2 seasons and I have no issues to this date. *Knocks on wood* 18 psi - 34 psi with 0.025 gap could go up to 0.35 if I wanted.
 

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Had two sets of LQ9 coilpacks one used OEM and second White box new AC Delco. had so much issue i decided to change over to 1ZZ used coilpacks and solved all my problem. so far 24psi on .030" gap and not missing a beat. went on a trip, driven it straight 3.5 hours with no issue. Loving these coilpacks and loving my car now.
 

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Where could you source the metal mesh to wrap them in? That may be the ticket to keeping heat down and shielding the EMI. Right?
 

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Had two sets of LQ9 coilpacks one used OEM and second White box new AC Delco. had so much issue i decided to change over to 1ZZ used coilpacks and solved all my problem. so far 24psi on .030" gap and not missing a beat. went on a trip, driven it straight 3.5 hours with no issue. Loving these coilpacks and loving my car now.
Do your 1zz coils fit under the coil pack cover? I've been considering this swap. Do you ditch the factory igniter with these coils?
 

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Do your 1zz coils fit under the coil pack cover? I've been considering this swap. Do you ditch the factory igniter with these coils?
Exactly what Tres linked you to. but since you asked. Factory igniter is no longer used just like the LQ9. and yes only the 1ZZ fits under the cover. I have a celica GTS as a daily and tested the 2zz coilpacks they work but are taller so wont fit under the cover.
 

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HELP !! going back to 2013 , My tuner has disappeared after my ugrade to MOJO lq9 2 years ago , , the only cal back up I have is while it was NA-T on AEM V- 2 , i sent My ecu to AEM and it came back clean so I had to reload my cal file , Ive set the settings to everything read here , but it wants to start but will not , I dont know what is missing , sound to be not getting fuel ..what Ive done .........
I'm using na distributor for this ....
wizard set dwell settings to LQ9 coils
cam /crank to TT settings
coils 1-6 activated and phased correctly wth injectors using tt map
setting all set to falling edge
 

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HELP !! going back to 2013 , My tuner has disappeared after my ugrade to MOJO lq9 2 years ago , , the only cal back up I have is while it was NA-T on AEM V- 2 , i sent My ecu to AEM and it came back clean so I had to reload my cal file , Ive set the settings to everything read here , but it wants to start but will not , I dont know what is missing , sound to be not getting fuel ..what Ive done .........
I'm using na distributor for this ....
wizard set dwell settings to LQ9 coils
cam /crank to TT settings
coils 1-6 activated and phased correctly wth injectors using tt map
setting all set to falling edge
Ok , it was a faulty IAT sensor being the bastard , but now that I messed with the distributor , I need to check timing , Way back on page 12 , ' gamimnon' states the ability to use a timing light on the wires , has anyone accomplished this ? Rick did you try ? I have tried 2 inductive lights and get nothing . Any input as like Rick said its a pain in the ass to take it apart .. Thanks
 
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