MORE Clutch Problems!!!!!!!!!!!

traxon said:

This is unbelievable. I just had a new flywheel, rps pressure plate, and stock disc put in my car.. and now it won't DISENGAGE and nobody can figure out why. They tried adjusting the clutch pedal but that didn't help. There is zero freeplay in the pedal. What could be wrong? Did one of my cylinders just happen to die all of a sudden? They SEEM to be working fine, both are moving, no leaks, etc. That is my only guess. I'm pretty sure the mechanic that was working on my car this time did everything exactly right. I made him read the toyota manual and a clutch install guide I printed out from mkiv.com just to make sure he wasn't missing something vital.

In case you haven't followed my clutch story, this is basically what has happened so far. I had an rps 6puck clutch and the springs in the disc all broke for unknown reasons, so I replaced everything with new parts and put in an AZ disc instead. That entire setup completely wore itself out within a week, for unknown reasons. It was thought that the pressure plate bolts were loose, but they were not, so now I have no explanation for what happened whatsoever. And now I just put in the new clutch and it just won't work at all.

Good news, however! I've just been notified that there is a guy at the shop that is hooked on my car and determined to buy it! So maybe I can just get rid of the damn thing and start over!!

Click to expand...

Mmm I just changed my master/slave clutch cylinders (Im about to reply to my old post on how to do it) and the release fork assembly.

Im no expert, but I've done the job, so I know what's involved from the foot pedal down to the throwout bearing:

1. Put the car on ramps or jack stands so you can get to the tranny
2. Take off the inspection cover which is behind th slave.. easily comes off with two bolts, it's just a cover.
3. The clutch system doesn't require any power, it's a stand alone system... so have someone step on the clutch while you watch the fork. Be careful not to knock the car off the stands Make sure it moves freely.
4. Maybe, the slave doesn't fully release the throw out bearing, which doesn't pull the clutch completely from the fkywheel causing fast wear down?

5. Fuck it. By a 5$ bottle of DOT4 brake fluid and re bleed the system. On the slave, there is a bleeder value above the pipe that comes from the master. Loose, and pump the clutch to let the juice out (have a rubber tube up to it or it'll squirt everywhere!) And the clutch pedal should go to the floor. If you really want, un bolt the two screws for the slave and take it off, and pull the fork out with yoru hand and make sure it's not under any type of pressure... put pack in, re attach slave, and fill master tank with fluid... start pumping and it will gradually build up pressure (make sure you tighten the slave bleeder back up)

man I hope you fix it

-ron.

I STILL haven't solved my mysterious clutch problems!! To review, my last clutch, an AZ clutch, burned itself up in a week because it wasn't engaging fully (im pretty sure. no idea why though). The current clutch I have in my car (stock flywheel, stock disc, rps pp) will not fully disengage. I just replaced the master cylinder and release, didnt help at all. I heard that the az disc is slightly skinnier than the stock disc. This kind of makes sense to me since the AZ clutch wasn't engaging fully, and now that I have a thicker disc in there, it's not disengaging fully. So that leads me to think it's gotta be the hydrolic system that's not moving the pressure plate far enough in either direction, but I already replaced both cylinders, so what's next?? Can anyone think of anything that could possibly be wrong??? This has gotten completely out of hand. My car has been in the shop for a couple months just because of these weird clutch probs. I hate to think I'm going to have to sell my car just because of the clutch. I've had 2 different mechanics work on it so far and talked to many others which haven't been able to help yet.

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