Joined
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109 Posts
OK -
I think I've decided to stick with a 2JZ motor (even though a wicked custom TwinTurbo Lexus V8 would have been fun!)
Well, let me babble for a moment:
My car has never quite felt "tight" - the tranny is a little sloppy, the motor has had it's problems - remember my clutches being destroyed. Fixed now by switching to a OEM crank pulley, but was it compounded by an unbalanced motor? When I reverse the car shimmies are rattles *badly* - more than just the effect from a aftermarket clutch/flywheel (the RPS setup is mild anyways).
I can't lean the car up enough - my guys think it may be a funked up timing gear varying the timing and making it hard to get dialed in. I did have a slightly damaged original crank pulley so that area may have had some problems!
To FULLY resolve the issue, I can replace all existing components - motor, tranny, driveshaft, rear end. That would HAVE to solve every problem since the car would be like 80% new.
I figure replace all the parts in the rear end, ring/pinion, gaskets, seals, etc., and change to a carbob fiber drive shaft.
Then the tranny - I have been told that Eric in South Florida can rebuild the 6-speed (has access to OEM parts from Japan) - so I assume this would be 90% as good as new, if he can put it together with the same tolerances as Toyota - *OR* just get a NEW tranny from T for about $5K (I suppose I could sell mine for parts to offset the cost a little?) I'm not convinced there's anything wrong with the tranny, just a little loose, and if (when?) I do this, I want EVERYTHING perfect.
Motor - same thing, but I guess there's like 3 levels:
New Toyota shortblock for about $2200, and just clean up the heads with new valvetrain parts (either Toyota for Ferrea) - cheap solution, and if I do go with a new tranny, dramatically reduces the overall costs.
Built motor - Carillo rods, JE or even JUN pistons, ARP, etc. - port the head some, same components - go ahead and do some cams - solid, but the point of failure is probably then the crank, though it would be blueprinted/balanced and pinned/polished.
Same scenerio but with a stroker bottom end - likely JUN - crazy 3.2L with ultra bullet proof bottem end (and crazier price tag
)
At this point - it's not the money but the result - AM I EXPECTING TOO MUCH?? This car is just not smooth. Is this a plot where everyone is in on it? I *thought* I would have a performance vehicle that would at least be as smooth as say a factory Supra, or favorably compare to a Porsche/TT or a Vette or Viper. I don't mind the extra cost/effort if in the end I get a car that really does drive like a factory smooth Supra. My Vette was infinitely smoother on the tranny side - my 95 Vette had ZERO problems with heads/cam, etc. I want that same drivability and reliability.
My guys tell me they've done some new trannys and that is it unbelievable how much more solid a 50-60K mile car is afterwards. And I imagine a JUN 3.2L stroker with cams, and street ported head revving to about 8500rpms @28PSI of boost (800HP?) is enough to give us all some major "wood"! BUT ONLY if it's an OEM like experience.
Off to ponder...
I think I've decided to stick with a 2JZ motor (even though a wicked custom TwinTurbo Lexus V8 would have been fun!)
Well, let me babble for a moment:
My car has never quite felt "tight" - the tranny is a little sloppy, the motor has had it's problems - remember my clutches being destroyed. Fixed now by switching to a OEM crank pulley, but was it compounded by an unbalanced motor? When I reverse the car shimmies are rattles *badly* - more than just the effect from a aftermarket clutch/flywheel (the RPS setup is mild anyways).
I can't lean the car up enough - my guys think it may be a funked up timing gear varying the timing and making it hard to get dialed in. I did have a slightly damaged original crank pulley so that area may have had some problems!
To FULLY resolve the issue, I can replace all existing components - motor, tranny, driveshaft, rear end. That would HAVE to solve every problem since the car would be like 80% new.
I figure replace all the parts in the rear end, ring/pinion, gaskets, seals, etc., and change to a carbob fiber drive shaft.
Then the tranny - I have been told that Eric in South Florida can rebuild the 6-speed (has access to OEM parts from Japan) - so I assume this would be 90% as good as new, if he can put it together with the same tolerances as Toyota - *OR* just get a NEW tranny from T for about $5K (I suppose I could sell mine for parts to offset the cost a little?) I'm not convinced there's anything wrong with the tranny, just a little loose, and if (when?) I do this, I want EVERYTHING perfect.
Motor - same thing, but I guess there's like 3 levels:
New Toyota shortblock for about $2200, and just clean up the heads with new valvetrain parts (either Toyota for Ferrea) - cheap solution, and if I do go with a new tranny, dramatically reduces the overall costs.
Built motor - Carillo rods, JE or even JUN pistons, ARP, etc. - port the head some, same components - go ahead and do some cams - solid, but the point of failure is probably then the crank, though it would be blueprinted/balanced and pinned/polished.
Same scenerio but with a stroker bottom end - likely JUN - crazy 3.2L with ultra bullet proof bottem end (and crazier price tag
)At this point - it's not the money but the result - AM I EXPECTING TOO MUCH?? This car is just not smooth. Is this a plot where everyone is in on it? I *thought* I would have a performance vehicle that would at least be as smooth as say a factory Supra, or favorably compare to a Porsche/TT or a Vette or Viper. I don't mind the extra cost/effort if in the end I get a car that really does drive like a factory smooth Supra. My Vette was infinitely smoother on the tranny side - my 95 Vette had ZERO problems with heads/cam, etc. I want that same drivability and reliability.
My guys tell me they've done some new trannys and that is it unbelievable how much more solid a 50-60K mile car is afterwards. And I imagine a JUN 3.2L stroker with cams, and street ported head revving to about 8500rpms @28PSI of boost (800HP?) is enough to give us all some major "wood"! BUT ONLY if it's an OEM like experience.
Off to ponder...
