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Discussion Starter #1
OK -

I think I've decided to stick with a 2JZ motor (even though a wicked custom TwinTurbo Lexus V8 would have been fun!)

Well, let me babble for a moment:

My car has never quite felt "tight" - the tranny is a little sloppy, the motor has had it's problems - remember my clutches being destroyed. Fixed now by switching to a OEM crank pulley, but was it compounded by an unbalanced motor? When I reverse the car shimmies are rattles *badly* - more than just the effect from a aftermarket clutch/flywheel (the RPS setup is mild anyways).

I can't lean the car up enough - my guys think it may be a funked up timing gear varying the timing and making it hard to get dialed in. I did have a slightly damaged original crank pulley so that area may have had some problems!

To FULLY resolve the issue, I can replace all existing components - motor, tranny, driveshaft, rear end. That would HAVE to solve every problem since the car would be like 80% new.

I figure replace all the parts in the rear end, ring/pinion, gaskets, seals, etc., and change to a carbob fiber drive shaft.

Then the tranny - I have been told that Eric in South Florida can rebuild the 6-speed (has access to OEM parts from Japan) - so I assume this would be 90% as good as new, if he can put it together with the same tolerances as Toyota - *OR* just get a NEW tranny from T for about $5K (I suppose I could sell mine for parts to offset the cost a little?) I'm not convinced there's anything wrong with the tranny, just a little loose, and if (when?) I do this, I want EVERYTHING perfect.

Motor - same thing, but I guess there's like 3 levels:

New Toyota shortblock for about $2200, and just clean up the heads with new valvetrain parts (either Toyota for Ferrea) - cheap solution, and if I do go with a new tranny, dramatically reduces the overall costs.

Built motor - Carillo rods, JE or even JUN pistons, ARP, etc. - port the head some, same components - go ahead and do some cams - solid, but the point of failure is probably then the crank, though it would be blueprinted/balanced and pinned/polished.

Same scenerio but with a stroker bottom end - likely JUN - crazy 3.2L with ultra bullet proof bottem end (and crazier price tag :D)

At this point - it's not the money but the result - AM I EXPECTING TOO MUCH?? This car is just not smooth. Is this a plot where everyone is in on it? I *thought* I would have a performance vehicle that would at least be as smooth as say a factory Supra, or favorably compare to a Porsche/TT or a Vette or Viper. I don't mind the extra cost/effort if in the end I get a car that really does drive like a factory smooth Supra. My Vette was infinitely smoother on the tranny side - my 95 Vette had ZERO problems with heads/cam, etc. I want that same drivability and reliability.

My guys tell me they've done some new trannys and that is it unbelievable how much more solid a 50-60K mile car is afterwards. And I imagine a JUN 3.2L stroker with cams, and street ported head revving to about 8500rpms @28PSI of boost (800HP?) is enough to give us all some major "wood"! BUT ONLY if it's an OEM like experience.

Off to ponder...
 

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What's up Danny? It's Matt from Jax. Anyway, off to your questions.

Although I do think a JUN 3.2 L at 28 PSI would be killer, I think your expectations might be a little high. Although Supras do have the reputation for still driving OEM at high horsepower levels, do you really think any car with 800+ HP is going to drive like stock? It'd be sweet if it did, but it's not very likely.

How many miles are you on your car? I don't think a full drivetrain/engine replacement is neccasary, although it would be good. If you have the funds to blow then by all means go for it. Heh. You're car is amazing as it is, but no one is ever happy. I understand where you're coming from. I say just get the tranny rebuilt, maybe replace some of your drivetrain and stroke/build the motor. A full out replacement is a little wild in my point of view.

My 2 cents......

Matt
 

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I've had 2 trannies in my car, and both had some slack in them. Mine also rattles a lot in reverse (TRD twin disc). I guess its the price you pay for having such a tough tranny (my first tranny was replaced under warrenty by mistake, it was perfectly fine).
 
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