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TRACK CAR
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I know secret sauce sounds pretty gay but thats what people started to call it in Gainesville so it kinda stuck. In G-ville there are about 5 or 6 stock twin cars that always cruise and run against each other. I used to be one of them. The races were always close which was a problem for me, so I needed an edge over the competition. After talking to some people and doing some research I deciced to attempt these mods to see if they could possibly give me that edge I was looking for. I am not going to gaurentee anything with these mods other than after I had them all in my turbo's "seemed" like they would spool faster, come on stronger, and felt quicker than before. I kinda kept quiet about some of these mods in the past but now that I have the single on I don't mind helping my competition out.:D So if you are like me and are looking for a few extra hp out of your stock twins in TTC before you go single you might want to give this a shot.

1. Wastegate Spring Mod - a lot of people are now putting this on their car and realizing that its worth its weight in gold. Boost will hold rock solid to redline, even in hotter weather. I bought that spring in a pack of 5 carburator return springs at the local discount auto. That one is the stiffest in the pack, and you have to bend your own ends to it. Loop one end around the wastegate lever arm and the other in the extra hole on the waterpump. This will stop the exhaust gasses from pulling the wastegate open a concept a lot of people don't understand and think they need a new wastegate or boost controller.

2. #2 Turbo Pipe Mod - remove the butterfly in the pipe coming off the second turbo. Then take a digrinder and remove the aluminum arc that went around that butterfly. Also get the hole where the bullerflys rod came out of the side welded up. Now another thing that you can do is take the middle plate with the openings in it and swap it out with solid piece that you can make out of 1/8 inch aluminum. This is the piece in the picture with the gaskets and crappy blue sealant on it. This plate that goes on top that makes it so the air doesnt have to occupy the extra area in the upper part. Also makes things less turbulant.

3. EGCV Mod - Take out the stock EGCV butterfly and replace it with a straight through design. You can just take a screwdriver with a hammer and bash out the butterfly but that leaves the rod which I also wanted removed. The reason why you need to make an entire new piece is because the stock one is made of ceramic. And since you can't weld ceramic, you would have two large holes in your exhaust. I made mine myself on a lathe out of a piece of temp resistant steel. This will increase the crosssectional area of the #2 turbos exhaust by over 30%. Kinda a pain to install but I found it to be worth it.

All of the mods

Spring Length 8 inches

Inside the pipe

Before EGCV mod

After EGCV Mod
 

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Vendor
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Ah, the secret sauce...good times :)
 

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Great mods...whenever i had my twins i did the first 2 "secrets" that you did, and they really do work wonders. Looks like the Supra meet is tom on the 9th?? I'm fixing to move down to FL in the Vero Beach area here in a month or so. So there will be yet another Supra in town! :)

JD
 

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Hardtopper Once Again!
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HaYaBuSakLr said:
Great mods...whenever i had my twins i did the first 2 "secrets" that you did, and they really do work wonders. Looks like the Supra meet is tom on the 9th?? I'm fixing to move down to FL in the Vero Beach area here in a month or so. So there will be yet another Supra in town! :)

JD
The meet is next month.
 

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Brevity is our fortune...
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does replacing the ceramic sleeve with a metal one cause any problems?
 

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TRACK CAR
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
vr4bats said:
does replacing the ceramic sleeve with a metal one cause any problems?
I had mine made to the exact same size as the stock ceramic one and didn't have any problems whatsoever. No exhaust leaks or anything, but I'm sure the steel did expand when compared to the ceramic but the way that it is positioned (sandwiched between the EGCV and turbo assembly) it won't cause any problems. I ran mine for about 6 months before going single and when I removed it, it looked just like the day I first installed it.

Mike
 

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Good info. I have done the spring mod, as well as the #2 turbo pipe. I cut out the butterfly and had a plate welded on for the cover. I haven't done anything to the EGCV other than wire it open. Should I be able to at least brake out the butterfly and leave the shaft to keep the holes plugged? I don't want to brake the ceramic then not have something to plug the holes up with.
 

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TRACK CAR
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Josh S said:
Good info. I have done the spring mod, as well as the #2 turbo pipe. I cut out the butterfly and had a plate welded on for the cover. I haven't done anything to the EGCV other than wire it open. Should I be able to at least brake out the butterfly and leave the shaft to keep the holes plugged? I don't want to brake the ceramic then not have something to plug the holes up with.
Yea you can break the butterfly from the rod. Also don't worry about the ceramic piece breaking, its extremely hard. I haven't heard of anyone breaking the rod inself but I'm sure it's possible.

Mike
 

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MTR said:
Yea you can break the butterfly from the rod. Also don't worry about the ceramic piece breaking, its extremely hard. I haven't heard of anyone breaking the rod inself but I'm sure it's possible.

Mike
Thanks, I will be in there anyway putting my DP back on after getting my emissions test done this week I'll give it a try.
 
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is it pretty hard to get that spring on? do i have to jack the car up? any tips? i always knew about it but wasnt sure if i wanted to do that or not. wouldnt that kill the stockers faster?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Rome_The_Supraman said:
is it pretty hard to get that spring on? do i have to jack the car up? any tips? i always knew about it but wasnt sure if i wanted to do that or not. wouldnt that kill the stockers faster?
Yes running higher boost will kill your turbos quicker but what really kills them fast is running insanely high boost like 20+psi. With this I ran 17psi on pump and 20psi on race and never had any problems with the turbos. In my opinion it was the best mod next to my boost controller, but if you are scared about killing your stockers I would suggest that you put your car back to stock so you won't have to worry about that. :)

Tips for putting it on: start by removing your intake, then remove the vsv that is in the way near your wastegate. Use a flashlight to shine down inbetween the pipes so you can kind of see what you need to hook the end around. Then what makes this much easier is if you use pliers to hold one end of it while you attempt to fish it around the wastegate leverarm. Once you get it on the lever you can either secure the other end to the empty hole on the waterpump or around the top wastegate nipple. I would suggest the waterpump hole because it would be much harder for it to come off if its secured there. It also helps if the car is cold so you don't burn yourself. Just to give you an idea it took me 30 mins to do my first try and 5 mins doing a friends car the second time around, so its not a real intense install.

Mike
 

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I have been thinking about doing mod #1 for a little while (especially since I already have everything apart and could do it no problem). My question is will this in anyway interfere with running low boost (around 15-17 psi)? I want to still run low boost for 93 pump, and I wasn't sure if the added tension from the spring would prevent me from running that low boost.

Can anyone confirm or deny this?

-AJ
 

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TRACK CAR
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It depends on how tight of a spring you use. With mine the lowest I could hit was 1.1 which was plenty low for me. If you need to run less boost than that then just use a softer spring.

Mike
 
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