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ELITECUSTOMBODY
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pane2k said:


heres pictures of my personal wide body we finished not too long ago. The car is finished now, i just dont have any recent pics because im waiting for my rims to come which have been taking forever.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=233584
We didnt use regular filler though, i used evercoat fibertech on my car.
i was also suggesting for the shop to use that on dawg's car too.

have you had any bad experiences with it?
I guess that's one way to paint a car.
Why all the parts like bumpers, side skirts e.t.c were left on the car while painting?the harness that goes in doors,hatch got painted as well?
I would never do that even to a civic,you went as far as cutting glass out, why not spend few more hours pulling harness out?
i can bet the bottom of the skirts didn't even get a descent coat of paint or clear,
sorry, I'm a very anal when it comes to quality paint/body work
Stefan
 

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when we painted the car, all the wheels were removed and the car was put up on horses in a booth. Under the side skirts got a very good coat of paint and clear. How was i supposed to paint them off the car? They're molded into the quarters.
None of the harnesses or antying like that got painted silver. Whoever had the car before me repainted it, and someout got red on everything. Even the condensor.
I actually went around and scrubbed everything with laquer thinner to get it clean.

And yes, the bumpers, wings, etc were all painted off the car.
 
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Do you guys think I should just work with the kit I have now? Or return it for one that doesn't have this grain to begin with?
 

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like its been said before, sand w/ 80-120 then use a high build primer, sand 180-320 and prime again with a good epoxy primer. then sand again 320-400wet and paint.

id recomend that they dont do extensive wet sanding to the clearcoat after the kit is done. leave some orange peel. then come back in a month or 2 when everything has settled. then wet sand to a mirror finish. it doesnt matter how much work you do before(almost), there is always goeing to be something that comes through. if you want to be safe, try to keep the car in a garage or covered if out side. the first couple of months are crucial.
 

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Dawg, i dont think returning for one without grain is necessary. As said earlier, most kits do have it.
Just prepare it correclty and you shouldnt have a problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
So i'm assuming evercoat fibretech is a type of bondo i should use to mold the panels on then what was the name of the primer i should also use?
 

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the name of the primer was evercoat polyester fill primer.
And i used the fibertech on my car and i liked it alot. You might want to ask some of the other guys what they think as well.
 

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Persona non grata
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Most of the issues with body kits etc. that I've seen look to be a.)too much heat during layup b.) poor cure.

If a part is wavy and not cured and you sand the shit out of it till it's perfect - as it continues to cure (especially out of the mold) it will definitely continue to "wave."
If a part is made with a heavy cloth on the outside of it and allowed to get hot as hell (in order to get it done faster) and is pulled w/o a good cure and has print through; when you sand that part out - if it isn't cured chances are very good just the heat from buffing will be enough to bring the print back somewhat.

Once the part is cured - it can be sanded out w/o too much problem as mentioned with like 180 or 220 - 320 whatever.....
 

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ELITECUSTOMBODY
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I will post up-close picture of a Lorinzer front bumper for M/B S-class which retails over $2700,yes,freaking $2700!for just one bumper! it has more surface flaws then your 11 piece $3000 widebody!
 

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A paint job is only as good as the prep work and finish work that surrounds it. Words to live by in the autobody repair/refinish world. Work with what you have. You absolutely cannot expect to buy any fiberglass body panel, sand it, prime it and paint it and expect it to look good! If the body shop takes the correct steps in the prep work and finish work it will look like glass and you'll NEVER have a problem with "print-through" if you take care of the paint afterward. Have you looked down the side of a corvettte lately? Wavy as hell and thats a factory finish!

Dave
 

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ELITECUSTOMBODY
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Dave said:
A paint job is only as good as the prep work and finish work that surrounds it. Words to live by in the autobody repair/refinish world. Work with what you have. You absolutely cannot expect to buy any fiberglass body panel, sand it, prime it and paint it and expect it to look good! If the body shop takes the correct steps in the prep work and finish work it will look like glass and you'll NEVER have a problem with "print-through" if you take care of the paint afterward. Have you looked down the side of a corvettte lately? Wavy as hell and thats a factory finish!

Dave
very true. and how about the enzo,there was a tv show,where they showed the print trough of the c/f in the paint.
 

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feeding your habit
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Dawg said:
Do you guys think I should just work with the kit I have now? Or return it for one that doesn't have this grain to begin with?
I cannot believe how paitent everyone here is....

Dawg, you are a prime example of someone who has more money than brains. Do you need to ask someone everytime you take a crap? Just do it. Use some common sense. If you are getting advice from experts (craig, pane2k, et al) then stop asking them the same stupid questions. Respect the years of experience these guys have.

And, Dawg, I think I smell :bsflag:

-M
 

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98mkiv said:
I cannot believe how paitent everyone here is....

Dawg, you are a prime example of someone who has more money than brains. Do you need to ask someone everytime you take a crap? Just do it. Use some common sense. If you are getting advice from experts (craig, pane2k, et al) then stop asking them the same stupid questions. Respect the years of experience these guys have.

And, Dawg, I think I smell :bsflag:

-M


How about you sit down and shut the fxck up? thanks. :)
 

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Well, Dawg, with all the support and reccomendations you have recieved, did the body shop start the kit at all yet?
Did they do anything yet?
Are you still using the same shop.
Keep us posted.
 
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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I totally appreciate the response and advice guys. I am waiting on a set of 13.5 wheels to come in. When those arrive the bodyshop can decide if they can stretch the TRD kit to fit or not. I will keep you guys posted :D Again thanks for all the positive comments helps me feel at ease with such a warm community base!
 
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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
What is the procedure on this "stretching" process? Is there a template for cutting the rear quarters that goes with a TRD WB? Thanks.

Allan
 
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