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"DANNY TANNER!!!"
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
rad is 3 years old and looks brand new, i just did a complete coolant flush 3 days ago and i added water wetter to a 60/40 water:coolant ratio. I'm not burning coolant, i'm not loosing coolant, oil is clean, A/Fs are healthy....however on the highway in 35 degree celsius weather my car will ALWAYS creep up in temperature. Once it shows 210 on my Defis that's when i get worried and i crank the heat to help cool stuff down.

Yesterday i decided to experiment and on the highway at about 60 KPH, flex-a-lite fans OFF my temps rose to almost 240 degrees. At idle the car will cool fine with the flex-a-lites on. It's when the car is moving that i usually see high temperatures and i don't know why. I usually have to drive around with the heat blasted FULL even in the summer to keep my car cool.

Any opinions? i'm thinking go to a cooler thermostat like a 180.
 

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i had the same problem, although i was on the verge of a bhg.

I'm switching back to the stock clutch fan.

Do you have the undercar panel?

Switching to a 180 will help, but you shouldn't have to, the stock 195 is fine.

Stock HG?
 

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SUPRAF0RUMS TROLL
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1,610 Posts
or you can go back to a mechanical fan.... the electric fans are great but... at high speeds the wind speed maxes out the CFM of the fans and that makes the airflow back up in front of the radiator

edit:

for those of you that hate on the mechanical fan... try it out and prove me wrong... higher water temps do not just the horsepower gain
 

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"DANNY TANNER!!!"
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i NEVER turn my e-fans on at high speeds. I find that my temps just creep up faster because they are pusher styled fans. I also can't switch back to my mechanical fans because of the way my IC pipes are routed. It sucks because i want to put my mechanical fan back on.

oh and my engine is a rebuild from 4 years ago. new Toyota HG put in and ARP bolts torqued to 75 ft/lbs at the time.
 

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Ludicrous speed! GO!
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Switching to a 180 tstat won't do you any good because it doesn't have anything to do with cooling your engine, except when it dies and is stuck closed. I'd switch back to the stock fan and if you don't have an engine undercover I'd get that too.

How's your rad cap?
 

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"DANNY TANNER!!!"
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
engine undercover is history. Rad cap i'll buy a new one and see how it does.
 

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Destroyer of Turbos
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check between the rad and the a/c condenser and see what all is there debris wise, might be messing things up for ya.
 

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Ludicrous speed! GO!
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derK said:
engine undercover is history. Rad cap i'll buy a new one and see how it does.
Go with a stocker. I had a stant or some other pos and it was always leaking. The engine undercover is pretty important in helping to direct air into and out of the radiator.
 

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"DANNY TANNER!!!"
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
my A/C is ripped out so the condensor is gone. I do have a BIG FMIC so maybe that doesn't allow enough airflow to the rad?? shouldn't be a problem since so many of us run FMICs. Last i heard those engine undercovers were hella expensive. I'll check into it.
 

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1jz FTW!
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Swith back to your stock fan. I had dual flex-a-lites 220's and no matter what I did my temperature was around 210 on my electronic autometer. That was just too hot for me. Although it looked terrible and i didnt have a fan shroud, I put my stock clutch fan back on and my temp hasnt gone above 200 since. Even in the recent 100* F weather lately its still around 200. All on stock radiator, no fan shroud. Ive just come to the conclution that i hate electric fans.
 

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switch back to the clutch fan, make a custom fan shroud out of sheetmetal or something.
I plan on doing that, then get a pusher fan if you can run the stock aux fans, and wire the pusher fan to the stock aux wiring
 

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I know I havent posted on here much but I have been around a few forums and I have worked on a few cars...plus my best friend is a mechanic and has worked on cars since he was young enough to hold a wrench...

1st...a 180 degree stat means that the water/coolant is allowed into the block once the block water/coolant reaches 180 degrees. So the coolant/water flowing through the radiator starts cooling by the air through the fins and also by pressure since the pressure keeps the water/coolant from evaporting(if I remember the pressure part right). I have a 160 degree thermostat myself...

2nd...I have a e-fan from like autozone that does not have as high a cfm as a flex-a-lite and my friend was too stupid to flip the blades before he stuck it in and I wasnt paying attention as I was working on something else. So it is on the pusher side of the blades but is used as a puller.

3rd...I have a full metal stock replacement rad(not plastic top) that is much better than the oem one.

So...on a extremely hot day boosting 17 psi hitting over 120MPH I have not seen temperatures over 204 degrees. Most of the time on a warm day I see from 170 to like 180 boosting pretty regularly. On colder days it runs around 160 or probably less.

I do understand the thing about maxing out the CFM...i hit over 145MPH a few weeks ago and it was cool at night and my temperature all of a sudden shot up...I did not have the laptop hooked up so I couldnt see the exact temperature but it was probably around 215 or maybe more...anyone know what the H line is on the stock gauge?

The pros outweigh the cons as far as switching to an e-fan...I just need to get a better one...probably will next summer. As far as the thermostat...from what i know...how can someone say that it has NOTHING to do with cooling the engine more if it is at a lower temperature...the sooner the coolant is in the block the cooler it will make the block and consequently the "engine". Some guys dont even run a stat during the summer and just let the coolant run through the block all the time...
 

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FYI.. running too cool is not always a good thing. your going to increase engine wear and run richer.

i run the stock 195 t-stat, tundra fan clutch and a new OEM radiator and i'm about 210 degrees crusing down the highway.. car runs fine
 

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You're certain the rad is clear? Get it up to operating temperature and shut it off. Feel the face of the rad, should be hot on top and get cooler towards the bottom. If you find cold tubes they're plugged.
On mine the whole tube section in front of the stock fan was plugged. No heat there = no thermostatic action on the fan = no fan. Plugged rad + no fan = very poor cooling.
Mine had nice clean coolant, tubes I could see looked good. When we pulled the core all the tubes looked good at the ends, but hold the core up to the light and a whole bunch were plugged. The engine had been rebuilt due to BHG before I got it, and I suspect the rad got plugged during the BHG incident.
 

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Building, Not Dismantling
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Pull your drain plug while cold. Recently I swapped out a collapsed lower hose, and noticed when I pulled the plug it took quite some time (yes cap off) for it to drain. The stream while draining was similar to a piss stream. Replacing the hose didn't work, but came back and replaced the radiator as well, and been fine since.
 

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Ludicrous speed! GO!
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phillipthe1st said:
...
1st...a 180 degree stat means that the water/coolant is allowed into the block once the block water/coolant reaches 180 degrees. So the coolant/water flowing through the radiator starts cooling by the air through the fins and also by pressure since the pressure keeps the water/coolant from evaporting(if I remember the pressure part right). I have a 160 degree thermostat myself...

...

As far as the thermostat...from what i know...how can someone say that it has NOTHING to do with cooling the engine more if it is at a lower temperature...the sooner the coolant is in the block the cooler it will make the block and consequently the "engine". Some guys dont even run a stat during the summer and just let the coolant run through the block all the time...
Did you notice that the tstat is after the block and not before it? The tstat is there so that the engine can reach its optimal operating temperature of approx. 180-190 degrees Farenheit. Once the engine reaches its optimal operating temp, the tstat is fully opened hence it has very little to nothing to do with cooling the engine - and more to do with heating the engine up.

I don't know where you get your info from, but you are sadly wrong. And for the guys who don't run tstats, they either have fully built race machines that demand no restriction in the cooling department or ruining their engines.

Theres a reason why tstats are designed to OPEN at a certain temp.
 

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derK said:
i NEVER turn my e-fans on at high speeds. I find that my temps just creep up faster because they are pusher styled fans.

... engine undercover is history. Rad cap i'll buy a new one and see how it does.

... my A/C is ripped out so the condensor is gone. I do have a BIG FMIC so maybe that doesn't allow enough airflow to the rad?? shouldn't be a problem since so many of us run FMICs. Last i heard those engine undercovers were hella expensive. I'll check into it.
I'd say the fans are causing some of the problem, as pushers tend to block airflow, at least some, even when off. The FMIC may or may not be hurting you, depending on it's installation angle, etc., but it shouldn't be an issue. Definately get the undercover, even if you just get a used one; it'll help the airflow through the radiator by blocking the bottom off in front it, and it helps the flow through the entire engine compartment (and helps to keep crap off your engine). Radiator cap may help, but you can usually test them/have them tested; if it's holding correct pressure, a new one is just wasting money.

I run my Taurus fan (puller) on a thermostat (no idea what temp, it has no markings - I just set it where it works well and left it), and the only problem I've had in the last year or so (~24k miles) is the last 3-4 days of 96*-100* weather here (running A/C, in traffic & highway, for 50 min. trip home from work) killed my relay finally. Plugged a new one in, and went on my way :D.
 
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