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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

A couple friends and I got stage 2 of my brianb box together. I already had the sides put together and today we fiberglassed in the bottom. For anyone doing this, it's not that hard, just messy. Wear gloves. Change them often. That stuff is STICKY! :) Here's some pics...
 

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After the painters tape we put down two layers of aluminum foil and sealed all the seams with tape. Then I wiped a layer of turtle wax onto the foil. Here's a pic of the foiled area with the box set in there, ready for fiber glassing.
 

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Next we covered the entire areawith plastic drop clothes. I wasn't going to let anything get on my car.
 

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And here's the box with two layers of fiberglass down. For putting the fiberglass down, just follow the instructions in one of the many tutorials on the internet, or the ones on the back of the resin can. Like I said, it's not hard, just messy. Also, the fumes are terrible. Wear surgical masks at the very least. We found it easiest to use pretty big pieces of the cloth mat, dip it into the resin, lay it down, and then dab more resin onto it until it was thoroughly soaked. We waited about an hour between layers. Right now, the whole thing is out in my garage drying overnight. The stuff was totally hard after 2 hours, but I'm going to let it cure overnight before I try and pull it out.

Tomorrow I plan on taking the whole thing out and sanding the inside smooth. Once I get it smooth I'll put down a few more layers of fiberglass and be done with this part.
 

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:cool: Awesome job with the fiberglass and the write up! Very detailed and informative. One question, whats the reason behind putting down a layer of turtle wax over the painters tape? Just to seal it from the moisture in the fiberglass?

What sub setup are you going with? That box looks big enough for 3 -12's or so, 4 maybe?

Can't wait to see the next installment of pictures and the final product!:cool:

CraigK
 

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The turtle wax is probably so the fiberglass comes off easier when you remove the box? I was wondering what the reason for sanding the layer of fiberglass before putting another layer on was for?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, the wax was so the mold will pop out of the car easier. With the aluminum foil, it's not really neccessary since the foil should just stick to the mold and come out with it, but I figured, what the heck...

As for the sanding, I have a lot of little pointy spots where the resin peaked a little bit and a couple of air bubble here and there. If I try and put another layer of fiberglass over the pointy parts, those will make more air bubble because the mat won't lay flat over it. basically, I want to sand out all those little points and break into the air bubble and sand those flat before I put down any more layers.
 

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Cool thanks, nice write up too. Gives me more motivation to make mine now :D
 

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Its Me...Its Me
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tight work...I dunno how many times I've had to do that exact same glass box...they need to start makin cars with no spare, spare elsewhere, and a flat damn trunk
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey guys,

No more real progess was made today other than taking the mold out of the car. I'll get more done on it next weekend and post more pics then.

- Andy
 

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Ok, ok, maybe 500rwhp!!!
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Looks badass! Your enclosure will rock the block for sure!!!. Everyone who samples my enclosure don't believe they're 2 10s. :)

Make sure you mix up about 2 cups of resin, and pour it directly in the mold and "swish" it around to cover any tiny holes.


Brian
 

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MyNuttz
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that looks sweeet and is tempting me to do my own. seeing that process with pics and write up really are great thanks alot....where did you get the resin and fiberglass matting at and how much does it cost?....I'm about to layer a whole bunch of peel n seal on the surface of my trunk, how do you think this will affect this process?...
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Hey guys. The fiberglassing got finished today. It's drying out in the garage right now. It looks pretty much the same as it did in the car, just the fiberglass is a lot thicker. If anyone wants more pics at this point, just let me know and I'll take some. I'll definately take some when I start putting it all back in the car. That won't happen until after Xmas unfortunately.

I got everything I needed at Home Depot. They have fiberglass resin and matting in the paint department. Get the gallon size of the resin (128 fl. ozs.) cuz you'll need it all. As for the matting, I started out using some stuff labeled "Fiberglass Cloth." It's a mesh cloth that you can use, but it's pretty thin. On my first trip to Home Depot that's all they had, so I took it. After that we used some stuff labeled "Fiberglass Mat". This was much thicker and looked like the fiberglass I have always seen. I think all this stuff was Bondo brand, but I'm not sure. It was all sitting on the shelf right next to the Bondo.

In hindsight, using the thin cloth probably wasn't a bad idea for the first layer. Since it's thinner, it bends easier. The only downside to it is that since it's an actual weave, it tends to crinkle up and leave you with air bubbles. After the first layer however, I'd switch to the thickest mat you can find. It'll make the whole process go a lot faster.

Putting down Peal n' Seal won't make any difference, just make sure you put it down before you do the fiberglassing. That way the fiberglass will mold to the contours of the Peal 'n Seal.

Edit: Some other tips we discovered:

- Use the sponge paintbrushes instead of the regular paintbrushes. They work better and they're cheaper.
- At my Home Depot I found some disposable, clear, 2 quart mixing buckets with oz. measurement markings on the side. Those made mixing this stuff a snap. Just mix it in the bucket, use the bucket while slopping the resin on, then after a few layers, toss the bucket. They were only $0.98.
- If you can, dip the mat into the resin before setting it onto the mold. This made the process of getting the mat to absorb the resin a lot easier.
- Buy a whole box of latex gloves. By the end, we were changing gloves after every time we mixed a new batch of resin.
- Only mix resin in 8-16 oz. batches. If you mix up more than that, it will start to get hard before you can use it all.
- Have good ventilation.
- Don't be afraid to use your hands. They are covered in gloves after all... It's a lot easier to get air bubbles out with your hands.
- Don't dump excess resin that started to get hard into Home Depot shopping bags and leave it on the garage floor. It melts through the bags and leaves spots on the concrete floor.... :)
- We found it easiest to cut the mat into strips about a foot long and 3 inches wide. If we cut it smaller, it just wasn't time efficient. If we cut it bigger it just didn't lay down right.
 

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MyNuttz
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sweet right up...I really think I am gonna do this now.
 

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Isn't the woven cloth supposed to be stronger than the chopped mat yet take up less space? When I made my half BrianB box (for one 10" sub) I used a few layers of mat followed by a few layers of cloth.
 
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