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· Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,532 Posts
ive built several motors...

pull the head off and leave it complete. take the ENTIRE head with cams and everything (not the covers or manifolds or thermostat housing or shits) to a cylinder head shop. they will disassemble the thing, clean it, inspect it and determine if it needs new valves, valve guides or reground seats. they will reassemble it w/ new valve stem seals as a minimum. but your options widly range from there if you opt for OS valves or upgraded valve train or even port work. they will also resurface the head as a standard.

take your short block apart, pull the rods/pistons out and set them aside, dont mix up the caps on the rods. when you take them out, put the caps back on the rods and the nuts back onto the rod bolts. then, you can take the crank out. do NOT mix up the main caps or turn them backwards. they should be marked and have an arrow on them. you should just leave them off and throw away the main bolts to avoid the temptation to reuse them. take a hammer and tap out the dipstick tube that protrudes thru the bottom of the block. take out the oil pump, pickup tube and the fitting that goes into the block. take your block, new pistons, old pistons/rods and new ARP rod bolts to the machine shop. dont forget your front case cover. tell them you want the block machined to fit the new pistons, have them hung on the rods you want to use, and have those rods fitted w/ the ARP rod bolts. once they are fitted, have the big ends of the rods resized. as far as the crank goes, have them inspect it and ask for micropolish. dont have it Ground unless its absolutely necessary. alot of times, the crank doesnt need to be ground unless you spun a rod bearing or main bearing. once the guy polishes the crank, he will re-measure it and he will know what size main and rod bearings to get. have HIM order the proper sized bearings, that way you dont risk ordering the wrong ones. also, make sure you take him the ARP main studs too. make sure he knows you are gong to use main studs and to have the main journals align honed for use w/ the main studs. and he will also mill the block for the new head gasket, bu tmake sure that he installs the front case cover, cuz they both need to be machined at the same time.

hope that helps.
 

· Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
Joined
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7,532 Posts
anferny, yeah, you have a point. without thinking, i asked my machine shop to grind one journal to remove a flat spot that it had right near the fillet of the crank throw... they explained to me if they are going to grind one journal, they are going to grind them ALL to make sure the bearing sizes are consistant. any half-way decent shop will not grind just one journal and order one undersize bearing. its kinda dumb not to grind them all while its on the machine,and itll save potential headaches later on down the road.

and yeah, the 0.25mm = 0.010" undersized. usually the first step when grinding a crank.

both the past 3 motors i built were able to retain the STandard sizing. my crank specialist ordered the appropriate Clevite bearings which were all simply labled "STD". Clevite doesnt offer 5 different sizes like toyota does. when i buld the engine, i make positively sure that MY oil clearances do not exceed the higher of the specfied range. the Top end of the specified range is NOT the same as the Maximum allowable limit, for those that dont know.

for instance, if the specified range could be an oil clearance of 0.0012" - 0.0029" and the Maximum allowable limit could be 0.0043", then i make sure my oil clearances do not exceed 0.0029".
 

· Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
Joined
·
7,532 Posts
front case cover is the aluminum thing that bolts to the front of the block. and then the pullies and timing belt stuff goes on top of that.

letting the motor idle for an extended period of time is not good. you should just raise the idle right away and hold the RPM's up after cranking for an extended period of time to ensure that oil pressure is built up. once you get it started and running, rev it up and down. in fact, crack the throttle so the rpm's rise up, once it gets up to 4000, cut the ignition and let the rpms fall off. itll be cool.
 
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