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· 475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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flubyux2 said:
ive built several motors...

pull the head off and leave it complete. take the ENTIRE head with cams and everything (not the covers or manifolds or thermostat housing or shits) to a cylinder head shop. they will disassemble the thing, clean it, inspect it and determine if it needs new valves, valve guides or reground seats. they will reassemble it w/ new valve stem seals as a minimum. but your options widly range from there if you opt for OS valves or upgraded valve train or even port work. they will also resurface the head as a standard.

take your short block apart, pull the rods/pistons out and set them aside, dont mix up the caps on the rods. when you take them out, put the caps back on the rods and the nuts back onto the rod bolts. then, you can take the crank out. do NOT mix up the main caps or turn them backwards. they should be marked and have an arrow on them. you should just leave them off and throw away the main bolts to avoid the temptation to reuse them. take a hammer and tap out the dipstick tube that protrudes thru the bottom of the block. take out the oil pump, pickup tube and the fitting that goes into the block. take your block, new pistons, old pistons/rods and new ARP rod bolts to the machine shop. dont forget your front case cover. tell them you want the block machined to fit the new pistons, have them hung on the rods you want to use, and have those rods fitted w/ the ARP rod bolts. once they are fitted, have the big ends of the rods resized. as far as the crank goes, have them inspect it and ask for micropolish. dont have it Ground unless its absolutely necessary. alot of times, the crank doesnt need to be ground unless you spun a rod bearing or main bearing. once the guy polishes the crank, he will re-measure it and he will know what size main and rod bearings to get. have HIM order the proper sized bearings, that way you dont risk ordering the wrong ones. also, make sure you take him the ARP main studs too. make sure he knows you are gong to use main studs and to have the main journals align honed for use w/ the main studs. and he will also mill the block for the new head gasket, bu tmake sure that he installs the front case cover, cuz they both need to be machined at the same time.

hope that helps.

All too true flubyux2; However one point is missing that you need to know. The bearings will be different sizes if the crank isn't cut to one size say like .25mm called 10 under. This presents the problem of a newbie, or even a seasoned mechanic mixing up the bearing sizes, and getting rod knock. To avoid this each rod journal must have the proper bearings marked in some form or fashion. You can have him list the sizes for each one in oreder so you won't have this problem.
I think I should addd this to my thread on how to minimize rodknock.;) :bigthumb:
 
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