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Tired of being sexy
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530 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have an 88 turbo with a fair amount of mods and pulls very hard. My clutch is a spec stage II with around 2k miles on it.

When installing the clutch, my mechanic/friend re-used the bolts... so I ended up breaking almost all of them after a few hard runs. Second time around, I get arp bolts and managed to get those loose. They were torqued properly with lock tite. 500 miles later they are loose again. At this rate it seems that it will happen again. I really have no clue why this keeps happening. Does my clutch suck? Should I beat my mechanic?

Suggestions?

thanks.
 

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2,385 Posts
New arps, +15% torque and red loc-tite. If they come apart again, the female threads are too worn to be useful - probably best to drill & tap slightly bigger bolts.
 

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yeah, RED loc-tite... I had to use an impact to remove them this time, and I still reused them (cleaned them first though)
 

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Tired of being sexy
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Discussion Starter #6
Just an update. Got my car back.

First time around I BROKE most of the reused bolts.

Second time, I loosened the ARPs AND managed to break most of them.

Cars running fine now so we will see...
 

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NO SOUP 4 U
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1,683 Posts
Well, Ive built some large V8s. You could also try a wire tie bolt. Wire runs through and connects to next bolt. You tie them in a way that the bolts cannot back out. I would take a look at the flywheel as well. If you have snapped bolts or you bolts have become loose, chances are you have probably wobbled you flywheel on the bolts. Making the flywheels holes oblonged. If you use wire ties..... use locktite as well. I would search for the highes grade bolt you can find otherwise.
You might have one other issue as well. If you ran a bolt or bolts loose in its hole it may have rounded the threads in the holes. I dont care how much torque you add to a bolt Its gonna snap over and over. I would maybe tap to a larger size. Might i suggest You number the bolts on the fly wheel. Yes, not the bolt head use a white metal marking pen. This way you will be able to tell if you at having issues with the same bolt holes.

I havent seen this asked so i will ask it..... did you replace your pilot bearing when you did the clutch? Has the car ever been in a accident? If one side of the transmission seperates from the engine i seen where the input shaft can be bent. A slight bend could also cause problems.

Wedge
 

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Tired of being sexy
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530 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
No accidents and I did not get the pilot bearing replaced.

Whenever stuff got loose/broken I was pretty lucky because once I heard something was off I just let the car sit. First time around I heard some chatter and just garaged it and had the tranny dropped.

Second around time I heard a very slight chatter, thought that maybe it was the clutch release bearing because it only happened when I was in neutral. It drove fine so I just dropped it off at my mechanics house.

New bolts were put in and locktite was used
 

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NO SOUP 4 U
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I would replace the pilot bearing. If you have any fly wheel damage, when you take it off screw your new bolts on to the back of the crank and check for latteral movement. If the bolt wobble too much i would maybe think about tapping them out to a larger size. I would also number the holes on the flywheel. As i said above you will be able to see if its the same bolts doing this to you. No amount of locktite is going to fill gaps of a wobbling bolt. You could try the wire tie bolts.

If your mechanic has a inside and outside micrometer..... I know i do. :) Have him check the crankshaft lip (where the flywheel rests), against the inside area there the fly wheel rests on the lip. If he has a dial...(runout gauge) you could see if the fly wheel is sitting true on the crankshaft. I would also check the crank shafts tail. If you can find someone that has a flywheel the same as yours ask them to mic the bolt holes see if yours are the same. Ive know of some people that do a MAGNAFLUX. Is possble you have micro fractures at your bolt holes on your flywheel or maybe the crank. You might not be able to see them with the naked eye. But a Magnaflux done by a machinist might find your culprit. I dont know how much HP your engine is putting out but im running out of ideas for you. There is one other possibilty, it is remote though...... yet still possible. Give our Harmonic balancer a look at. Is the bolt tight? Did a mechanic at one time or another beat the harmonic off with a hammer rather than using a puller? I would look at the section of rubber that is mid way out from center. Is it swelling on one area? Is the out most metal ring true? Does it look like that outer most ring is walking off the balancer?

If your engine is a snorter.... I would imagine you are using a forged crank. You could always pull the oil pan and drop the crank and let a machinist take a look at it. Better safe than sorry. I know i wouldnt want to have a flywheel blow through my bell housing. Sorry so long but there is alot of info to relay. :)

Good Luck,
Wedge
 

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Tired of being sexy
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks a lot for the really helpful info. My car seems to be running fine after a weekend of hard driving. If something breaks I will definately find your informatin useful.
 
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