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135 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
AFRAID: JDM, Built Motor, Detailed Bay, GT42, Hidden Wiring + several learning curves

I'm copy and pasting this from the Australian forum because I'm really, really lazy.

The plan;


Complete blueprint and balance
Knife edged crank
ARP main bolts
ARP rod bolts
Carrillo Rods
JE Pistons @ 20 thou over
ACL race series bearings and rings
Ported head
Custom 264 exhaust cam
Custom 272 intake cam
Brian Crower springs
Titanium retainers
5 angle valve grind
Brian Crower 1mm oversize intake and exhaust valves

JNT Performance bellmouth
Sock filter
2.5" cooler piping
Some big fuck off front mount that came with the car
Port matched stock inlet manifold

Custom T6 turbo manifold (Treated and wrapped)
4" dump pipe
4" cat (Haven't sourced one yet)
Kakimoto 3.5" cat back
HKS internalled 50mm wastegate

Titan motorsport hanger
3 x Walbro GSS-341 550hp pumps
Proflow fittings
1/2" hardline under the car
Braided line between pump hanger and undercarriage
Braided lines in bay
Modified stock fuel rail - twin feed with centre return (all -6 AN)
Aeromotive A1000-6 Fuel Pressure reg with guage
SARD 850CC injectors
Standard return lines

12V fuel mod
3 x relay pack with fuses to run the fuel pumps
Haltech Platinum Sport 2000
Basic stereo crap
Two piece loom with hidden wiring

Fidanza lightened flywheel
RPS blue twin plate clutch
C's short shifter

Whiteline front and rear sway bars
Some generic strut brace
Koni shocks
Whiteline springs

That's all I can remember right now. I'm doing the porting of the head myself - I'm not expecting it will be as fantastic as a professionals work, but I've done a couple of Commodore (Buick L27/L36/L67) cast iron heads in the past with decent enough results. I'm focussing mostly on getting some good shape into the exhaust ports to reduce heat soak, rather than the usual "make ports big and shiny" job. Inlets will be opened very slightly and finished in 120 grit. I'll get flow results regardless, which should show what an amateur can do with a 2J head :tongue:

The turbo I'm running has too big of a rear housing, but due to time constraints I won't have a chance to change it at this point - it's a 1.15 AR.

I'm just going to be happy to drive it again - it's been off the road since June/July last year.

Most of my pics are dodgy, so I'll get some new ones when I can.

The car;

I'll get a bunch more photos tonight.

Motor is currently down at the builders being balanced and the crank machined/knife edged etc. The head is at home on my bench getting the port work done. Fuel system is all prepared and waiting to go in, with the exception of the fuel rail which is still being modified with a return date of this coming Monday.

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135 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·

Ok, did some more work last night. The majority of it was detailing the engine bay - I tell you what, removing 15 years of build up is tough work! Luckily I had a helping hand to do it for me whilst I sorted out the fuel system.

After months of searching, I finally located submergible fuel hose that could handle C16 and similar race fuels. So, after putting this in and wiring up the hanger I ended up with the following;

It was a real pain to fit the hanger into the tank with the filters connected, and I found I had to remove the fuel guage float until after the hanger was in the tank itself.
After some serious tetris business;

I also pulled out the factory fuel line from the car, as I'm upgrading to 1/2 inch lines. A comparative - new on the left, old on the right;

After getting dirty under the car, I measured the length of hardline that I'm going to need. It will be running in the same spot as the old line under the plastic shielding, however will be held in with rubber circlet clips. Below is a picture of the length with the very cool ProFlow fittings attached.

And that's it so far - I didn't take any pictures of the bay, because I want to take the loom out first and rewire it.
Started pulling the wiring out last night so that I could hide it. The bay will then be getting shaved and sprayed.
I have a rough idea of what colour I want, but I'm not set on it yet. The battery and fuse box will be relocated into the boot behind the rear seat and sealed off from the cabin.

The cruise, booster, ABS and alarm will be hidded with alloy panels, and the pillars forward will be smoothed out.

The start of the nightmare.

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135 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·

I'll definitely be sticking with the stock body. The colour I'll be going is Lexus' "Platinum Silver". It has a white/blue tinge that comes through in the sun which works with my cold/metal/shiny theme.

Anyway, progress pics. Started the wiring delete and the engine bay shave over the weekend.

The point of no return (removing the body harness). I've done it this way for one reason - I want to use a segmented loom for all aspects of the car to make cleaning/removal/fitting easier. It will be put back together with loom plugs. For what it's worth, there are 37 wires on the drivers side loom and 20 on the passenger side, not including the airbag wires, which I haven't touched. I also haven't touched the ABS sensors.

Body harness deleted. This will be rerun under the headlights and guards. The TRAC/ABS/etc relays will be hidden under the guards, and the fuse box and battery will be rerouted behind the rear seat.

There sure are a lot of holes, terrible welds, random rubber bond stuff and plastic mounting clips!

I'm using a material similar to fibreglass, except that the fibres are metal. This is what's used by the vast majority of panel beaters for this sort of work.

Blocking off a lot of the holes and filling some of the horrible "canyon" things that Toyota left in;

For anyone else doing this, all I can say is sand sand sand and sand some more! The smoother you get it between each application, the easier it is to high fill later.

Sprayed some of the flat black guide coat to ensure that there was no pitting in the metal fibre;

My dad hard at work (for once :tongue:)

To smooth everything off, and also remove all of the hard edges, I used a K&H stop putty high fill. It's important to note that this can't be used for anything more than 3mm worth of build up, otherwise it's not sound, and may drop out after spraying. It's easier to build up with the metal fibre anyway.

First coat of high fill to cover the obvious "canyoning";

Second application to smooth out all of the recessed and blend in raised areas;

As it stands at the moment;

Had a few extra hands on deck to help out, so had some time spent cleaning up various "under car" parts - I'll be stripping all the sound deadening from under the car, smoothing the underside back, and then applying new deadener.

Gearbox crossmember;


I'm considering having the gearbox hand polished for shits and giggles. It came up quite well just with the wire wheel and degreaser :D

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Did some more last night. Let's just say I hate whomever designed the interior of the Supra :(

Removing the brake booster;

Booster out as well as most of the hardlines

Not too bad of a job in retrospect, but all I can say is: REMOVE YOUR INTERIOR PLASTICS FIRST BEFORE DROPPING THE STEERING COLUMN!!!
Yep, I tried to do it the other way around. Made it a lot harder than it needed to be.

Also received a package yesterday.. the first of a few to come.

Mystery box


Brian Crower?

A Brian Crower Christmas tree sticker!

It's actually valve springs and retainers. :/

Engine bay is booked in to be sprayed on Thursday - looks like I won't be sleeping much over the next few days.
Going Lexus "Millenium Silver".


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

The objective of the car is to be a clean, powerful streeter. That means keeping the ABS, keeping the air con etc. So unfortunately no race fuel only :(

I saw a way of getting the prick bolt that holds that stupid fuckin bracket on (which wasn't connected on the booster side for me anyway), but decided to do it the long way just for ease of reassembly later.

Ok, got a lot more done last night.

More smoothing of the bay going on, featuring Belinda. It's worth noting that she was far better at both the metal fibre application AND the high fill than Richard or I. Apparently it had something to do with the fact it's like icing a cake, and apparently girls are good at cooking. :tongue:

Stock cooler/wiring loom hole welded and metal fibreglassed;

The other side wiring loom -> battery hole welded and filled;

Hole for cruise control and wiper motor wiring welded and filled;

It was then decided that we were going to smooth the tops of the strut towers, because that recess looks awful.


After the first filler coat;

And on the passenger side.


After first filler coat;

As it stands now;

The finalisation of all the smoothing will be finished off today (highlighted in blue permanent marker). Tonight the guide coat goes on, ready to be painted tomorrow.

Also I got the colour name wrong - it's Milennium Silver Metallic (Code 1C0)

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

Here's a few pics from the last 24 hours.

A couple of my dogs that were supervising haha

To prove that I did actually do something, and not just take photos;

AAAAAAANNNNNDDDDDDDDDD... It doesn't actually really look like these pics. The gloss is so shiny it reflects everything in the bay and in the garage :/




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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Didn't get a great deal done on the car over the weekend, but I wasn't really expecting to. I wanted to test out my colour scheme of Silver vs Black vs Chrome to see if it worked.

So I started off by repainting my brake booster in a high temp gloss black;

And fit it up in the bay with the polished strut brace;

The strut brace mounts and the booster will need to be repainted as I'm not happy with the finish on them, but overall I'm happy with the scheme.

Also did some work on the manifold. As some would know, I bought the manifold as a second hand "turbonetics". Fuck knows what it actually was, but all the welds were good after an xray and I was chopping it up anyway so I stuck with it. A closer analysis showed the following in the wastegate ports;

You can see the weld pentration where the pipe meets up - there was at least 50% of the port covered up still!
Nothing 10 minutes with a dremel couldn't fix though;

Working the clearances for the T6 flange, which has also been tapped with M12 threads;

The manifold is being designed to use the Sound Performance spool improver, so the flange has been dropped around an inch lower than is required for the turbo to clear the head. I'll be using another flange in the mean time to make up the difference.

I've also started the work on the wiring loom. The body harness is fairly simple, and will only require slight extensions around the nose cone of the car, as well as a few sensors lengthened. The relocation of the fusebox is proving to not be too big of a deal. It's ony around 30 wires, which will easily build into a conduit. No pictures of that at this stage, but I'll have plenty more over the next few days.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

The build of the motor kicked off last Thursday - I don't have any pictures at this stage.
A lot of other random shit has been happening too, so I'll just throw up various pictures and try and work out what's happened thus far.

Richard stripping back the brake booster to be repainted. We had to do this 4 times all up until we got it perfect :(

After the strip back;

Stripping back the strut brace mount;

Painting up the various bolts and mounts. The bolts and nuts did strip back after being torqued up, however we then coated it with a hard acrylic to make it come up spot on.

Stripped and high temp coated the brake master cylinder - I'm not completely sure I like this, but it wouldn't come up to a polished finish, and dull raw metal looks shithouse.

The overall scheme for the car is black/chrome/dark silver. I'm not keen on chrome on the outside of the car, so to help this theme flow outward, I did this to the headlights;

We then continued work on the manifold.

With thanks to Craig, my resident welding extraordinaire. Seen in this picture with his nicknamed "oxy spanner" shaping up the base of the manifold ready for the new collector to be made up;

New collector welded on, with flange tacked on to get the correct angle and clearance;

And the final product;

Fitted to the head with the turbo on;

The manifold still has to have the decorative finishing welding done (this was a strength/penetration run) as well as HPC coating and wrap.

Also used the opportunity to do some more port work.

3 inlet ports on the right have been opened, reshaped and finished with a 400 grit to promote laminar flow;

A view of the inlets from the valve side - 6 ports on the bottom right;

A lot more has happened, but I was up all night drinking last night so I can't think. I don't have pictures of the progress anyway hahaha

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys. I haven't really done much for the past 1.5 months as I've had all sorts of bad luck (2 friends passed away, then mum had a botched surgery and has been in and out of hospital nearly dying since.. Gotta love free sub-par Australian healthcare)

Hopefully things will stabilise a bit and I'll be able to get some time to start sorting out all of the car business soon.

· Im A Fuking Ninja!!!
6,330 Posts
great work, sorry to hear about your personal problems.

· WI-FI FTW, GTFO fuse box!
9,209 Posts
Good luck. 90% of what you've done so far is EXACTLY what I did with my engine bay. I had no instruction, no one that has doen it before with me, I just took an occasional bit of advice every now and then.

Lots, LOTS of work.

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135 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thought I had better bring this thread up to date considering I'm working on the car again.

Twin feed single return (-6 fittings) fuel rail courtesy of Di Fillipo Engineering. Still have to have it polished up obviously.
Sneak peak of some stuff that has happened tonight.

Seeing as it's been far too long since an update, here are some pics of bits and pieces. Motor will be completed Friday.

I'll probably take the car into the workshop over the weekend to get the motor in and do the stuff that I meant to do to the underside of the car.

Balanced crank prepped to put back into the block

Block after the final clean ready to be assembled

Carrillo rods

JE Pistons

I'll be assembling the bottom end tomorrow morning, hopefully whilst my mate preps the seats for the oversize valves and finalises the head. With any luck it will all be together Friday ready to go in on Saturday/Sunday.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

Thanks mate.

Got a bit more done today - we're doing things really slowly to make sure everything is perfect.

ARP main studs;

Crank mounted for the final time with studs;

JE pistons and Carillo rods;

Assembled pistons;

JE pistons & Carrillo rods vs stock

The rings have been checked for clearance and hopefully we should have the bottom end together tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
And again;

I don't really have any progress updates as such, but I did decide to drag the car out to give it a wash. 12 months worth of dirt is awful!

Oh, also got some Fidanza cam gears courtesy of SUPRAKIMMY;

And the assembled bottom end. The oil pump is together and on now, but I didn't grab any pics of that.

Ok, took a quick snap or two tonight. I'll get some better ones tomorrow that touch more into what's actually been done. haha

I've been distracted because of these;

Of the car, the interior is now out thanks to Danny (TRD88) and Leon (supa)

Started stripping the sound deadener as well. It's gonna be a fun week organising that. After I'm finished, I want to make up new conduits to run the wiring through, rather than the usual tuck it in with the amp wire bro! job.

Oh, and as I live with my parents (yeah, great investment I'm making here, huh?) I've had to be resourceful with where I keep everything. I had to make room at the start of the project, which involved binning every piece of furniture in my bedroom and filling it with car and bike parts.

Few "my bedroom is better than your bedroom" pics;

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