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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, here it goes…

Some of you remember my car from this......2002 Era



2006 Era ,Or this...






Or some of you knew my car had been down for a prolonged time frame due to a 3rd revision. Rumors floated around that I sold it and chose to leave the scene/community which was contrary to the truth. Other more important aspects of life came ahead of the car, but I promised myself it would rip the tarmac again.

When I finally stop pondering on what direction to go (this changed multiple times), I decided to build a well-balanced street car that could do all that I want (road course, street driving, and the eventually OLA), but still remain as close to a street car rather than a 1400 HP light switch car that people consistently parted out over the last number of years. The long-term issues with fitment of the aftermarket exterior panels reassured me to return the car back as close to what Toyota started with. After all the dust settled, this is what I derived:

2014 Modifications:

Engine:

• 3.4L 2JZ-GTE Accelerated Performance Long block consisting of:
• Seasoned GTE Block
• New GTE Cylinder Head Casting
• New BC 94mm Stroke Crankshaft
• New ARP L19 Stock Sized Head Studs
• New ARP Main Studs
• New Clevite Main, Rod and Thrust Bearings
• New Manley 9.5:1 Stroker Pistons w/ CP Upgraded Wrist Pins
• New Kelford "C" Camshafts
• New GSC Beehive Springs and Ti Retainers plus Viton Valve Stem Seals
• New Supertech SS Intake Valves + Inconel Exhaust Valves
• New Precision T4 6766H Turbocharger w/ .81 A/R
• New SP FI Turbo Manifold w/ Dual Turbosmart Hyper Gates
• Rebuilt Tilton Triple Clutch (lightweight flywheel) w/ Twins Turbo Master Cylinder kit
• New Custom 4” 304 SS down/mid-pipe w/ recirculated wastegates
• New Boostlogic 4" cat-back exhaust
• New 8AN Polished Boostlogic fuel rail
• New Injector Dynamics 1300 Injectors
• New Dual Bosch 044 pumps in a PHR hangar
• Rebuilt Weldon Fuel Regulator
• New ETS 3-row intercooler w/ 4-row style piping
• New Koyo Radiator w/ Too precise overflow tank
• New Titan/ATI Dampener w/ Gates Belts
• New PHR Gen 2 Catch Can kit
• New MoTeC M1 ECU by John Reed Racing
• Existing TRD Engine and Trans Mounts
• New Goodridge Fuel lines
• New Setrab Power Steering Cooler (oil is next post break-in)
• Anodized Black Aluminum Shift Tower Bushings

Suspension/Braking:

• New HKS Hypermax GT IV Coilovers
• New Goodridge SS brake lines
• New OEM TT Front Calipers and 40k miles TT Rears.
• New 18” Enkei RPF1 9.5" Front and 10.5" Rear
• New Michelin Pilot Super Sports 265/35/18 and 285/30/18
• New PHR Deluxe Power Steering Kit
• NEW OEM Steering Rack plus outer tie rods and pump
• New OEM Front/Rear wheel bearings, seals, Rear hubs plus ARP studs all around

Exterior:

• Painted engine bay
• New’98 Headlights
• ’98 Turn signals
• ’98 Taillights
• RMM Carbon Fiber Rear spoiler or Stock Spoiler
• ’98 Front bumper insert
• New HKS/Paisley Carbon fiber chin spoiler or stock

Interior:

• New ’98 Genuine OEM Dash panels (6-spd included)
• ’98 steering wheel
• New OEM Toyota HVAC buttons and bulbs
• New OEM V160 Shifter + shift knob
• TRD 10K Tach (can’t see it! Behind the carbon plate and SDL)
• New Recaro CS Sportster Seats w/ Bride seat brackets (Driver/Passenger)
• Motec SDL Backlight Dash w/ SLM
• Relocated Braille battery to trunk
• Custom Amp rack with RF Punch 500.1, 60.2 and 40.2 plus bridges
• Boston Acoustic 5 ¼” fronts, Hertz 6 1/2" rears powered by JL 7005V2 amp

2016-17 Modifications: (<-CLICK LINK TO PAGE)
- Poly Whifbitz Replica Lip
- ID1700s
- Twin 485 Pumps on Stock Hangar
- Fore Innovations Fuel Filter
- STU Dash LED upgrade with new faces
- 25row Setrab Oil cooler
- Mocal SP1T HF sandwich adapter
- ZL1/CTSV Brembo brake upgrade
- BTI MoTeC CAN guage


2018 Mods:
- Radium Engineering Fuel Rail w/ Dampener
- BPA Downpipe and Midpipe
- HKS Titanium Exhaust
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So, I sold off most the not needed parts to kick start Engine Bay Repaint




Rebuilt the Suspension and Bearings as you can see by the yellow bilsteins!



Now onto the body shop to spray the engine bay!







All Cleaned Up, Engine Bay Reassembled, TRAC Pump Delete, New OEM Steering Rack, Coolant overflow, TwinsTurbo MC Upgrade!





 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Then onto the Engine and Fuel by first starting with removing and tapping the valve cover baffles to ensure no metal shavings are present



Was sick of dealing with polished components so I decided to add some color to mimic the engine bay scheme in the Audi TT RS





Debated on what to do with fuel so I went with the dual Bosch 044s but I had to modify the feed to accommodate a check valve for part load operation (single pump).






Since my battery is going to be relocated I went ahead and had this made to house these (3) aftermarket pressure sensors!








 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Block Clearancing:


Shiny!!!







All stuffed into my Block!


Cylinder Head, Harmonic Balancer and Oil Pan on!





Builder Called and I ventured to pick it up!



Engine off the Trailer and Onto the Assembly Stand





Started the Test fitting of selected components...



The alternator is just a little dirty... Hell its the original from '95.... Debating on which to upgrade to PHR, OEM or OEM Tundra upgrade!



Boostlogic Rail with ID 1300's



 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
SP F1 manifold installed with (1) of two gates plus the TwinsTurbo Adapter. The other gate is in the mail



Time to start the downpipe fabbing.. The Miller 250DX TIG is already in the Garage courtesy of a good friend!.



Gate Accessory Belt, Powdercoated factory pulley (not A/C), New power steering Pump and bomb can coil pack cover (I have a spare being painted body color)...


 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Turbo Test mounted... Need to finesse the oil return!



Seats showed up... Recaro CS Sportsters...




Braille Battery, Distribution Block, Fuel Pump Relays and Spare Fuse Block Mount in the trunk!



Engine/Trans Prep for Install....



Lightweight Tilton Flywheel...




Engine and Trans installed........ Time to fab the downpipe/dumptubes!



Exhaust fabwork initiated...






Factory side scoops and body mouldings back on and adjusted the suspension!



 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)


 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Sensor Bracket Almost all Wired up!



Farther away view



Driver's side all cleaned up w/o trac pump



Stock Side Skirts Back On!



My new spark plug cover....



Simple interior underway... One guage is still pending...



Latest Engine Picture before my ECU goes in... C'm JRR! (Some PC still in progress).

 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Money shot!







 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)










 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Photo from Recent C&C Event. 280 miles on New engine still 100+ to go before tuning for high boost.













 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)








 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
So I put on my new exhaust with my the help of a good friend.

A little exhaust fabing and all is good now... Soo much quieter and enjoyable while driving and under throttle. The discreteness is in effect...







Once this was done some TLC to clean it up before I remove the roll bar permanently and reinstall the rear seat next weekend



 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)


 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Fast forward to 2017 something had been bugging me for awhile, big brakes and other nuisances with the car. As much as I wanted to seek out full Stoptech and Brembo kits I decided to look into 1 of 2 kits that other members offered using off the shelf calipers/rotors. Below you will find the 2009-14 CTV V Brembo's paired with ISF rotors designed by Tarmactr. Cost wise, these are very economical and appear to have the bias designed around brembo kits for the supra. I will go into more of this later with details.

Cost wise this are a rough estimate to what it took to get here:

1. Front calipers - $750
2. Rears - $220 ( take offs of a brand new SS camaro)
3. Pads - $300 front and rear
4. Hardware Pins/clamps - $50
5. Rotors: - $350 for all
6. Powdercoating - $300
7. Brackets - $400
8. Machining - freebie from close friends.


The link to install is below:
http://imgur.com/a/8msF0



Rears needed machining 3mm on the backside to mitigate supplied spacers. I chose to do this vs. impacting my wheel offset.





Front required minor clearancing. This can be seen in the link above based on Josh's direction.




Once they were all test fitted. I sent them off to be PC and cleared after logo install. Found out the hard way that white decals don't like high temp clear. They turn brown hence the decision to go with silver after discovering this.




Fronts installed with G-loc pads.




Rears installed with G-loc pads.




Went to road test the car and found an issue.... The clearance of the rear pins to the rotor are very close at upper pic closer to 12'o clock. Looking at the different pin pics you can see the pins for the Jeep SRT 8 brembo vs. CTS V/ZLI/SS brembo. What I basically did was machine the GM pins to match the Jeep but centered accordingly to the CTSV/ZLI/SS rear caliper. The Jeep pins won't work as they are 0.090" too long preventing the bushing to be compressed in the caliper body.






I also finally got around to install the 25-row oil cooler with my sandwich adapter. Wow 12AN pushlok lines suck for install but results I've see so far on the street are well recieved. This cooler was stuffed in there

 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #17
Reserve 17
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Reserve 18
 
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