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Discussion Starter #1
If you recall, I posted my dyno number last time of 337 rwhp, and 373 rwtq ( SAE corrected ).

I just went and dyno again today. The difference are 100 octane, the fan blowing right into the intercooler, and reset ECU.

It made 380.5/367.7 rwhp/rwtq (SAE)! The lines looks MUCH smoother now.. no jaggies at all..

One question though. Do you know how they compute the correction factor from SAE to actual rwhp.
My actual wheel numbers are 393.91/380.65 rwhp/rwtq. I think I like them better, and will quote those numbers in the future :)

I downloaded the dynojet viewer from the web. Do you know how to get the application to display torque ?

Thanks for all the suggestions during my first post ( when I had low numbers )

Oh, yeah.. my car is straight BPU with ~18 psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's a picture of the dyno chart.
The one with the higher rwhp (and also the smoother one) is the most recent one.

BTW, I also changed my oil from 10W-30 to 10W-40 between the two dyno session. Looks like the 10W-40 make the turbo spool up 500 rpm slower (?). Although, my car now no longer smokes during startup.

Can someone comment on the longer spool up ? Is the spool-up affected by the duty cycle setting on the AVC-R ? I tweak the settings a lot, so I am not sure if I had the same duty cycle. The boost setting was definitely the same though.. 1.25 bar.
 
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It does look funky, but no, your oil has nothing to do with it. I think it's probably a misgraphing on your dyno sheet by 500 rpms. Run a tad more boost, and you will be at 400 rwhp. Good job - looks like you fixed the sickly bpu problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thank you walser.

How much boost do you guys run to get 400rwhp at BPU ?
20 psi ?

At 1.25 bar ( ~ 18psi ), my actual whp is 390 ( no SAE correction ). So, I suppose I should have tried 20 psi..

I'd like to use a little bit thicker oil than 10W-30, should I use 15W-30 or 10W-40 ?
I'm not quite sure how to interpret the first and second numbers in the oil rating ? All I want is to reduce the smoking problem during startup.

What should I do next for the upgrade ? Mods is in signature. Will I see improvement if I do fuel tuning ?
 

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I'm not sure the graph is off by 500 rpm, since the Tq & Hp lines intersect at ~5252, which they should.

Your sequential system may be slow to open one of the actuators; some of the hoses could be leaking, or an actuator may be on the way out.

I would pressure test the whole intake and IC plumbing, clean the stock IC, replace every hose I could get my hands on that has anything to do with the sequentail system, make sure all the hoses that connect to the intake manifold are still soft and not brittle/hard and prone to leak (this goes for all the hoses).

I can't see your sig while I'm typing this, but do you have the EGR plate? If not, get it, the EGR leaks on many Supras. The cap + resistor mod is not enough, use a block-off plate like the one Mohd sells also.
 

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Next time you go to dyno....instead of relying on that AVC-R.......Just do the pulled hose and run wide open wastegate...i guarantee it will improve your dyno numbers. AVC-R in my experience and many others...does not work that well with stock twins in sequential. Many will agrue.....but it tries too much to counter and hold boost etc etc. As i said i guarantee you will run stronger ( and still safe) with pulled hose..if not hit over 400rwhp. Pulled hose, car cooled down all the way, 104 octane in, reset ecu, fan pointed at car, and fresh set of NGK 3330s. And i guarantee you ...your power numbers will increase!!! Give it a try next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Lagtime: Thanks for your input. I'll do that as soon as I get my TT manual. I don't know which hoses are for which.. Will I get more power with the EGR block-off plates, or does it just prevent overheating on cylinder #6.

Ed Vale: Resetting the ECU puts the engine parameter back into its default state. It clears out any timing retardation that you might have from a bad tank of gas. ( i.e. 91 octane )

Steve97TT: To shut of the learning mode, do I just turn off the individual settings for each of the five (or four) gears ?

Thanks.

< Edited >
I just found out that my second dyno (blue line) was done with third gear, and first dyno ( red line ) was done with forth. Once I changed the X-axis in dynojet viewer to mph, everything is obvious.
That should explain the difference in turbo lag...
 
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I think if you are having EBC issues, it can't hurt to just pull the wastegate and verify if that's the problem. I like the AVC-R, but it can be a PITA.

An exhaust cam gear set to -3.5 to -4.5 is generally the way to go after BPU, IMO. It's cheap and not too hard to install. Fuel tuning helps too, but that's more of an ordeal to get exactly right. I usually suggest people wait to do that last in the BPU stages - you will have a better idea whether you will be going aftermarket turbo in the long run, and that is a factor in your fuel computer selection.
 
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