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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have decided to try out the RPS Carbon Carbon with the heavy flywheel. I put the clutch assembly on my scale today right after it arrived this morning and it weighs in at 45lbs...the stock flywheel, act pressure plate and feramic disc all weighed in at 51lbs on the same scale, so it is going to be a loss of around 6lbs. I didn't go with the lightened flywheel in fear of not being able to take off with it consistently well. I really didn't like the lightened flywheel setup when I had one a long time ago because it seemed to be a spin or bog thing.

You can adjust to the lightened flywheel I think, but I just don't like having to rev so high to take off and this setup with this weight savings has been proven and it is a nice happy medium as far as the weight goes. This clutch can be worn down .080" before it has to be send back to RPS for a rebuild.

I was going to try the Tilton out, but heard that it was pretty noisy even in weird situations. For example...when you have the car in say 2nd gear and are going down a hill...let off on the gas and there is this clashing/grinding noise associated with it even with the clutch engaged and when the car is in gear. I don't think I can get used to a clutch that makes that many noises and such...I drive my car around town quite a bit and I just don't think the noises associated with that clutch would work for me. I am of course not even speaking of the idle noises which is VERY loud I hear from the owners of them.
I know the clutch will hold power quite well however; it is VERY slippable and it doesn't wear that fast since it is a carbon carbon clutch. DBLEGLE has proven to me that clutch will hold up very well...he has made over 60 passes with it and the clutch has worn down only .004"...mind you he is doing high 1.4x-low 1.5x 60' times too and has run [email protected]:) It has to wear down .025" before you have to do anything to it which Tilton provides you with a total of .075" of wear before you have to send it back in.

Anyway, I have provided some pics of the assembly as it came to me. I haven't taken anything apart yet, but it comes with EVERYTHING to install it down to the Loctite.:) Not only does it come with everything to install it, but it comes with new parts as well like release bearing, pilot bearing, new snap rings and flywheel bolts. It even comes with a T-Shirt so you have something to wear during the installation process!!!:)
This clutch unlike the Tilton uses the stock fork to engage it...the Tilton uses their own item which eliminates the stock fork, but you have to modify your hydraulic lines to use it which I think would be a little bit of a headache, but would be well worth it probably after everything was up and running.:) Once I get it apart I may have more pics of everything else if anyone is interested. I will probably end up posting the pics on here.

I will keep everyone updated once I drive around with it, so you will have another view on the street driving abilities of this clutch, noise aspects, slipping ability and my view of trying to take off from a stop when there is a Nitrous'd Viper next to you.:)


Take Care




 

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No Ego or Arrogance!!!!!!
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TT_6SPD_95 Awesome defenetly keeps updated,for now I have the feremic stock flywheel,and love this set up compare to my old trd twin disk I like this set up,let us know how it compare to your old set up which its identical what I have now,and pretty soon going single 74mm and will be making around 700 to 800 whp,So I'm thinking in a better clutch that would last a little longer what did you end up paying for the puppy.
 

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19in 795R HRE's FTW....
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Tony, I'm glad I spent the time with you and convinced you to get this clutch. Who did you get it from?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
RussianMKIV said:
did you get the pro disc option?
I talked with Rob at RPS about this clutch and he said that I would not need the Pro disc setup on my car at all...he also said that IF I do in fact go through this clutch pre-maturely he would upgrade my clutch to the pro disc setup for the $300 I would have spent in the first place. I wouldn't have to pay for the Carbon fee of $450-$600 or whatever it is though...just the upgrade which is the price I would of paid in the first place and I would have a brand new Pro setup and everything else freshened up at that point.
Rob said that it pretty much would NOT come to that though because I just plain don't make enough power to go through this clutch!


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Discussion Starter #6
WOTM said:
Tony, I'm glad I spent the time with you and convinced you to get this clutch. Who did you get it from?
Thank you for talking with me for a couple minutes about this clutch setup...I really appreciate it just as I said that when I was on the phone with you. There are other people that didn't mind spending a couple minutes of their time with me either just like if someone called me I wouldn't mind spending a couple minutes of my time with them to let them know how something works, etc.

This thread has taken me a LOT more than 2 minutes to make too...I just want to make sure everyone is informed of everything about this clutch. I am just trying to be helpful just like when you were being helpful when I was talking to you about the clutch setup. Thanks again and to everyone else that was helpful in my decision!

I ended up getting the setup through Jeff at Induction Motorsports.


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19in 795R HRE's FTW....
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The Pro Style is $300 no matter how you get the clutch. Not sure where you got the $450-600 figure from!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
WOTM said:
The Pro Style is $300 no matter how you get the clutch. Not sure where you got the $450-600 figure from!
I was saying that it would cost me $300 more TOTAL if I sent it back to Rob and I wouldn't have to pay the normal $450-$600 or whatever it is for the normal "refreshening charge"...if I sent the clutch back everything would be rebuilt and upgraded to the pro disc for $300 if I needed to do that. Rob doesn't seem to think that would ever be a problem and he said that if I did end up needing the pro disc he would just upgrade it for that total price and that would include all of the "freshening up" as well.

Doesn't it cost like $450-$600 if I just sent the clutch back normally to get it rebuilt?


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Discussion Starter #11
I now have the clutch installed in the car and have pulled it out into the driveway so far. Everything is working so far and that is about all I know for now.:)

I will keep everyone updated...I am going to drive it around tonight and break it in some.


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Tony,
What exactly is the difference between yours and the "pro version" if I may ask.
I have the old style CC and it got much better after 1k miles or so....
I think you made the right choice in FW's, if I did it over, it would be the heavier FW. I will say though its fine when you get used to it.

thanks, :)
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #13
kaosv1 said:
Tony,
What exactly is the difference between yours and the "pro version" if I may ask.
I have the old style CC and it got much better after 1k miles or so....
I think you made the right choice in FW's, if I did it over, it would be the heavier FW. I will say though its fine when you get used to it.

thanks, :)
Tom
Tom,
That question would be better answered by Ryan...I am sure he knows the exact difference in detail.

Is the lightweight flywheel you have noisy at idle and if not what is your idle set at? I have mine set at 750rpm which is very close to what the factory idle is. I like my idle low.:) Did you actually weigh your whole setup...if so, what was the weight?


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Discussion Starter #14
I now have around 45 miles on the clutch setup, so I don't have a whole lot to say about it yet. Just putting the clutch in and making no changes to the pedal...it is engaging about halfway up or so and has good free-play up top. I can tell the clutch is slightly heavier than stock (supposed to be per Rob at RPS), but is definately lighter than my ACT pressure plate/feramic disc setup.

Engagement is very smooth and I can noticabely tell that it can be slipped slightly more than the feramic disc setup I had before. Is is just a little easier to make normal driving smoother.

On my "NOT READY GREEN LIGHT" test I would give it an 8 out of 10. It is very easy to throw the car in gear and take off when your not ready...like when you are trying to find a DVD to put in your AVIC-N1 and all of a sudden you look up to find everyone is going in front of you.:)

All in all in my initial review I would say daily driving is very easy to do with this clutch, but I was used to an ACT pressure plate with a feramic disc too...so my review might be different from someone coming from a stock clutch setup.:)


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Nice Write up Tony!

I cant wait to see what you can run for times now with a new clutch set up and drive shaft ;)

I'm sure you'll be knocking at 9's door in no time. :bigthumb:
 

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TT_6SPD_95 said:
Tom,
That question would be better answered by Ryan...I am sure he knows the exact difference in detail.

Is the lightweight flywheel you have noisy at idle and if not what is your idle set at? I have mine set at 750rpm which is very close to what the factory idle is. I like my idle low.:) Did you actually weigh your whole setup...if so, what was the weight?


Take Care
Tony,

My idle is set for 1k rpm and it rattles very,very little, depressed not at all. If you lug the car at all, it will let you know, although I rarely do. Also decel its makes its presence known but again no big deal.
The only issue is cold its grippy but really slippable. Makes this weird squeal occasionally too.
No, I never weighed it but I know people have posted the weight before.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here are some pics of the discs I said I would put on here. You can see part of the installation as well, but it isn't really in any particular order:












 

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Tony next time polish the tranny before you do a write up. Ha ha kidding. Nice looking setup. Can't wait for that 9 cause if you don't do it I will put a 250 shot on my stock twins
 

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I see now said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw. :)

Seriously, it looks like they made a FW out of a heavier material it looks very similar to the LWFW. Also on the "PRO" version it looks like they used more rivets to hold the pucks on plus the pucks look seperate on the "pro". Yours looks like solid pucks?
I'm sure a material difference too? :dunno: Nice pics......
Please follow up after some 1.40 60's and some street launches and mileage.

Probably should move this to the parts review section.:sadwavey:

Thanks Tony!;)
 
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