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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have decided to try out the RPS Carbon Carbon with the heavy flywheel. I put the clutch assembly on my scale today right after it arrived this morning and it weighs in at 45lbs...the stock flywheel, act pressure plate and feramic disc all weighed in at 51lbs on the same scale, so it is going to be a loss of around 6lbs. I didn't go with the lightened flywheel in fear of not being able to take off with it consistently well. I really didn't like the lightened flywheel setup when I had one a long time ago because it seemed to be a spin or bog thing.

You can adjust to the lightened flywheel I think, but I just don't like having to rev so high to take off and this setup with this weight savings has been proven and it is a nice happy medium as far as the weight goes. This clutch can be worn down .080" before it has to be send back to RPS for a rebuild.

I was going to try the Tilton out, but heard that it was pretty noisy even in weird situations. For example...when you have the car in say 2nd gear and are going down a hill...let off on the gas and there is this clashing/grinding noise associated with it even with the clutch engaged and when the car is in gear. I don't think I can get used to a clutch that makes that many noises and such...I drive my car around town quite a bit and I just don't think the noises associated with that clutch would work for me. I am of course not even speaking of the idle noises which is VERY loud I hear from the owners of them.
I know the clutch will hold power quite well however; it is VERY slippable and it doesn't wear that fast since it is a carbon carbon clutch. DBLEGLE has proven to me that clutch will hold up very well...he has made over 60 passes with it and the clutch has worn down only .004"...mind you he is doing high 1.4x-low 1.5x 60' times too and has run [email protected]:) It has to wear down .025" before you have to do anything to it which Tilton provides you with a total of .075" of wear before you have to send it back in.

Anyway, I have provided some pics of the assembly as it came to me. I haven't taken anything apart yet, but it comes with EVERYTHING to install it down to the Loctite.:) Not only does it come with everything to install it, but it comes with new parts as well like release bearing, pilot bearing, new snap rings and flywheel bolts. It even comes with a T-Shirt so you have something to wear during the installation process!!!:)
This clutch unlike the Tilton uses the stock fork to engage it...the Tilton uses their own item which eliminates the stock fork, but you have to modify your hydraulic lines to use it which I think would be a little bit of a headache, but would be well worth it probably after everything was up and running.:) Once I get it apart I may have more pics of everything else if anyone is interested. I will probably end up posting the pics on here.

I will keep everyone updated once I drive around with it, so you will have another view on the street driving abilities of this clutch, noise aspects, slipping ability and my view of trying to take off from a stop when there is a Nitrous'd Viper next to you.:)


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
RussianMKIV said:
did you get the pro disc option?
I talked with Rob at RPS about this clutch and he said that I would not need the Pro disc setup on my car at all...he also said that IF I do in fact go through this clutch pre-maturely he would upgrade my clutch to the pro disc setup for the $300 I would have spent in the first place. I wouldn't have to pay for the Carbon fee of $450-$600 or whatever it is though...just the upgrade which is the price I would of paid in the first place and I would have a brand new Pro setup and everything else freshened up at that point.
Rob said that it pretty much would NOT come to that though because I just plain don't make enough power to go through this clutch!


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
WOTM said:
Tony, I'm glad I spent the time with you and convinced you to get this clutch. Who did you get it from?
Thank you for talking with me for a couple minutes about this clutch setup...I really appreciate it just as I said that when I was on the phone with you. There are other people that didn't mind spending a couple minutes of their time with me either just like if someone called me I wouldn't mind spending a couple minutes of my time with them to let them know how something works, etc.

This thread has taken me a LOT more than 2 minutes to make too...I just want to make sure everyone is informed of everything about this clutch. I am just trying to be helpful just like when you were being helpful when I was talking to you about the clutch setup. Thanks again and to everyone else that was helpful in my decision!

I ended up getting the setup through Jeff at Induction Motorsports.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
WOTM said:
The Pro Style is $300 no matter how you get the clutch. Not sure where you got the $450-600 figure from!
I was saying that it would cost me $300 more TOTAL if I sent it back to Rob and I wouldn't have to pay the normal $450-$600 or whatever it is for the normal "refreshening charge"...if I sent the clutch back everything would be rebuilt and upgraded to the pro disc for $300 if I needed to do that. Rob doesn't seem to think that would ever be a problem and he said that if I did end up needing the pro disc he would just upgrade it for that total price and that would include all of the "freshening up" as well.

Doesn't it cost like $450-$600 if I just sent the clutch back normally to get it rebuilt?


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I now have the clutch installed in the car and have pulled it out into the driveway so far. Everything is working so far and that is about all I know for now.:)

I will keep everyone updated...I am going to drive it around tonight and break it in some.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
kaosv1 said:
Tony,
What exactly is the difference between yours and the "pro version" if I may ask.
I have the old style CC and it got much better after 1k miles or so....
I think you made the right choice in FW's, if I did it over, it would be the heavier FW. I will say though its fine when you get used to it.

thanks, :)
Tom
Tom,
That question would be better answered by Ryan...I am sure he knows the exact difference in detail.

Is the lightweight flywheel you have noisy at idle and if not what is your idle set at? I have mine set at 750rpm which is very close to what the factory idle is. I like my idle low.:) Did you actually weigh your whole setup...if so, what was the weight?


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I now have around 45 miles on the clutch setup, so I don't have a whole lot to say about it yet. Just putting the clutch in and making no changes to the pedal...it is engaging about halfway up or so and has good free-play up top. I can tell the clutch is slightly heavier than stock (supposed to be per Rob at RPS), but is definately lighter than my ACT pressure plate/feramic disc setup.

Engagement is very smooth and I can noticabely tell that it can be slipped slightly more than the feramic disc setup I had before. Is is just a little easier to make normal driving smoother.

On my "NOT READY GREEN LIGHT" test I would give it an 8 out of 10. It is very easy to throw the car in gear and take off when your not ready...like when you are trying to find a DVD to put in your AVIC-N1 and all of a sudden you look up to find everyone is going in front of you.:)

All in all in my initial review I would say daily driving is very easy to do with this clutch, but I was used to an ACT pressure plate with a feramic disc too...so my review might be different from someone coming from a stock clutch setup.:)


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here are some pics of the discs I said I would put on here. You can see part of the installation as well, but it isn't really in any particular order:












 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Steve Theodore said:
Thanks for taking the time to weigh everything Tony. I'm going to use those weights over on my registry if you don't mind. :)

Steve T.
Steve,

No problem on the weights...feel free to use them. The flywheel itself weighs in at 23lbs alone on my scale and on the same scale my stock flywheel weighed in at 32-33lbs, so the flywheel itself is about 10-11lbs lighter. I am not sure what good it would do to know that instead of what the entire complete setup weighs, but I am sure we can think of some reason to know the weight of just the flywheel.:)

Here is the breakdown:

Pressure plate: 16.5lbs
Discs: 5.5lbs
Flywheel: 23lbs


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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
dblegle said:
Looks good Tony! I think you'll be happy with the setup.

Get that thing to the track so we can see how those MT's really hook up. You better run some 9's on that turbo, because you know I'm going to once the trannies fixed.... :)
I am anxious myself to see how everything goes with my car and yours. When is the tranny due back?

Oh yea...and no slipping the Tilton to run that 9 with the turbo I am running...that is considered cheating.:)


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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I have around 170 miles on this clutch now. If I listen very closely I can hear a very very light noise at my 750rpm idle...of course if I would idle it up the noise would go away, but you can't hardly hear it anyway. You would have to be listening for it to hear it, so I don't mind it and I do really like my 750rpm idle. It is definately not nearly as noisy as when I used to have a RPS stage 3 with a lightened flywheel!!!

I just drove around today and tuned my decel fuel with the lightweight flywheel...it seemed to throw that off slightly. Everything works great with that now. Most people probably wouldn't have noticed anything when driving it, but I like to have the driveability the best I can possibly get and I guess I like to tinker a little too.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Also, a very important point about this clutch...I can take off at an idle and not have to worry about killing it or anything like that. I think that is definately an important factor to consider for the driveability of a clutch.

I really don't mind revving a car up some to take off, but it is a bonus if you don't have to I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Just a little update for everyone.

I have the clutch broke in now...engagement is still very smooth. I tried some launches with it on the 255x50x16" ET Street Radials and it hooked very well...I only had the tires at 25lbs. It was hooking so well that I had to flip the screen out on my Pioneer AVIC N1 and see what kind of G's it was doing...turned out to be a consistent 1.2 G's everytime.

I know that quite a while ago when I brake boosted the car in 2nd gear and hit it...of course it came on hard...the car pulled almost 1G...probably .9. Here recently when I went from a dead stop with the ET Street Radials where I could slip the clutch I pulled 1.2G's consistently. I tried it 4 times with the meter on.:)

Anyway, so far I am very happy with how this clutch/tires is/are allowing me to take off on the street...I have never taken off harder with the ET Streets with the Feramic disc on the street. The ET Street Radials were at 25lbs of pressure too! I will try and drop them down and see if I can take off a little higher...I was free revving the car (no 2-step) between 4900-5400rpm and slipping the clutch some too.

Anyone have any suggestions on the best tire pressure for the ET Street Radials on the street?


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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
chidoks said:
thats really nice... still running the gtr70?
Yep, still the GTR70 from Induction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
TwinTurboPete said:
Thanks for the update. This setup is killing me. People either hate it or love it and its making it hard for me to make a decision on my next clutch. I had a carbon/carbon on my old 300ZX and I loved it. The pedal feel was a bit hard but the car was VERY driveable and it never rattled. All the 300zx guys rave about it. Wish I could say the same about the Supra community :) Its either the RPS carbon/carbon, HPF Feramic or the ATS Triple Carbon
It took me quite a while to decide myself, but so far I am happy with the choice I made. If you try the ATS out be sure to let us know how it holds up. How much is that one going for anyway? How big are the discs...7.25" or so?


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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Long story, but here is the shortened version:

I went to the track last night to test out the new clutch and ET Street Radials...mainly I needed to know what tire pressure I wanted to be at, but unfortunately it was sprinkling on and off all the time I was there. That is definately not a good comparison when before I didn't run in the rain.:) They were still running cars every time it stopped, but I just decided to go home after it started sprinkling much harder...it was all kind of a waste of time anyway IMHO.

The only thing I got accomplished is trying out the new clutch and getting used to it. The clutch is very consistent as far as slipping goes...you can definatley slip it very easy and this setup doesn't bog or anything like that if you do happen to let it out early. The only downfall to letting it out early is you might spin.:)

Since it was sprinkling on and off and then started coming down harder I went home and unfortunately I didn't get the tires down to where I think they might do the best...I only got them down to 15psi and the car didn't hook all that great. It only managed a 1.78 60', but not sure if that is the rain on the track, or the fact that I don't know how to drive with this clutch yet.:)

I guess the bottom line is that I have to go on a much better day next time...last night was a horrible day to go. They also just re-surfaced the first 330' of the track, so the rubber isn't the same on the track as it was when I ran before. I am not sure how much that really played a role in my traction issue though.

I will either get these tires to hook, or just go back with the normal ET Streets. I can say though these tires hook just as good as the normal ET Streets on the street though. The G-meter on the track was around 1.24-1.25G's with my lower tire pressure and the meter on the street showed around 1.20G's shortly after the track...it wasn't raining at all 10 minutes away. Very weird night last night with the rain.
If I end up putting normal ET Streets back on the car I will measure the G's again on the street. I know for a fact when it hooks at the track it pulls more than 1.25g's, so it won't do anygood to measure that on the track since my Pioneer AVIC-N1 only goes up to 1.25G's.

I will keep everyone informed of the progress with the clutch/tires combo.


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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Clutch is still doing very well...I raced a 770rwhp Corvette last night that had a F1 blower on it and Hoosier 28x10" slicks. I did a very small burnout just to get the dirt off...had the tires at about 17lbs and the car just hooks WAY better than what it ever has before on the street. This was with slipping the clutch of course...I pulled quite a bit on him through 1st, 2nd and part of 3rd...but as he was hitting 3rd gear he knew something was wrong because the car didn't pull anymore. I guess he over-revved it and broke the idler pulley on it which sucked because we were going to do a couple more races after that one.:)

It was definately fun getting to go through some gears with someone using the new clutch setup...it felt awesome...the car hooked amazingly well, but I think that is mostly due to the clutch setup because I have never hooked that well on the street especially for being at 17lbs in the tires and not even really heating up the tires.

Anyway, I just wanted to let everyone know the clutch is doing very well still and looks to be very promising.:)


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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
This clutch is still holding up strong and hasn't changed any of its properties...it still is quiet, engages incredibly well, slips very easy and holds all the power that I throw at it.

I now have around 30-35 launches with this clutch. I will keep this thread updated.

My average 60' time is between 1.57-1.59 spinning pretty good and slipping the clutch quite a bit.:)


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