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I have had the RPS TWin Dusc C/C in my 300ZX for about 3.5k miles now. I have nothing but praise for the clutch so far. It has held numerous 1.6 60' and held my 750rwhp very well. Not to mention its a hell of alot better to drive around town. The pedal presure is awesome and engagement is like butter.
 

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I just dropped a CC in my Lex. I was getting sick of the RPS STG3 6-puck. Clutch feels a little stiffer than stock with stock like engagment. I have nailed a few hard shifts and it feels awesome. Should be good when I have another 14mm of turbo blowing another 25psi of boost. :)
 

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Kinda OT,

Whats the reliabilty from the heavy to a lightened flywheel of the RPS C/C assembly in the drag racing/street driving conditions?

Some sources have said that under normal conditions (drag sessions of 4-5 runs that occurs about twice a month) with a consistent amount of drag racing, they have seen no reason to have the heavy flywheel. These were on cars that make 800+RWHP, too.

I'm wondering since I ordered mine and opted for the heavy flywheel. However, I am reconsidering switching my decision to the lightened today for some other timing reasons.

DP
 

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Suprafied said:
Kinda OT,

What the reliabilty from the heavy to the lightened flywheel of the RPS C/C assembly in the drag racing/street driving condition?

Some sources have said that under normal conditions (drag sessions of 4-5 runs that occurs about twice a month) with a consistent amount of drag racing, they have seen no reason to have the heavy flywheel. There were on cars make 800+RWHP, too.

I'm wondering since I ordered mine and opted for the heavy flywheel. However, I am reconsidering switching my decision to the lightened today.

DP

I was told the lightened flywheel causes much more rattling in the Supra. Also, was much harder to get a good launch. Car would either bog or sping out. One or the other. I'm still debating on what to buy :)
 

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Suprafied said:
Kinda OT,

What the reliabilty from the heavy to the lightened flywheel of the RPS C/C assembly in the drag racing/street driving condition?

Some sources have said that under normal conditions (drag sessions of 4-5 runs that occurs about twice a month) with a consistent amount of drag racing, they have seen no reason to have the heavy flywheel. There were on cars make 800+RWHP, too.

I'm wondering since I ordered mine and opted for the heavy flywheel. However, I am reconsidering switching my decision to the lightened today.

DP
Doug..Tim, Eric, John, and I are all running the old style c/c. We hit up the track about twice a month,when all of our cars are running:) I've had great luck with mine, and after 2-3k miles of really hard abuse, the clutch looked like it did the day I put it in when removing the tranny last month. I've debated switching as well, but until this clutch does something that makes me want too...i'll stick with it.
 

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The newer style FW is lighter than the stock unit too, but not sure exactly the weight differences. I would've used the heavier FW had it been available. Not sure on rattle noise from reading Tony's posts he has a stock idle and little noise, I have a 1k idle and little noise.(lwfw)
The heavier FW is more user friendly on the street for stop and go traffic. Once you get adapted to the LWFW its not a big deal really. I would imagine the heavier FW is also easier to launch at the track too, how much easier no idea.
I know of a car that had the LWFW and it was abused beyond words on the track and street with no issues launching. The car also was pushing near 800 or it had 800 whp.
My vote would be the heavier edition if you prefer a little less rattle and smoother engagement for the street.
My two sense........

I'd certainly call Rob or whoever answers the phone at RPS and ask weight differences and their thoughts for your personal goals and power levels. I'd also await Tony's replies after he dragraces this clutch a while.
 

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kaosv1 said:
The newer style FW is lighter than the stock unit too, but not sure exactly the weight differences. I would've used the heavier FW had it been available. Not sure on rattle noise from reading Tony's posts he has a stock idle and little noise, I have a 1k idle and little noise.(lwfw)
The heavier FW is more user friendly on the street for stop and go traffic. Once you get adapted to the LWFW its not a big deal really. I would imagine the heavier FW is also easier to launch at the track too, how much easier no idea.
I know of a car that had the LWFW and it was abused beyond words on the track and street with no issues launching. The car also was pushing near 800 or it had 800 whp.
My vote would be the heavier edition if you prefer a little less rattle and smoother engagement for the street.
My two sense........

I'd certainly call Rob or whoever answers the phone at RPS and ask weight differences and their thoughts for your personal goals and power levels. I'd also await Tony's replies after he dragraces this clutch a while.
Your thoughts are exactly on the same line as what I getting to. As with the most of the crowd, I just don't want to pull this thing apart from some drag racing that I decide to part take during the next 4 months.

I imagine Tony should have passes in the book before my car fires in 2-3 weeks before IAS.

DP
 

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I don't see why the LWFW on the C/C setup is so hard to launch. I mean it's a carbon clutch and can be slipped beyond all belief. Is the pressure plate to stiff and hard to hold apart?

I can idle away from a stop with the Tilton. Once you realize that the carbon is "supposed" to be slipped driving in traffic is a breeze! And the flywheel in my setup is way lighter than the LWFW in the C/C setup...
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Long story, but here is the shortened version:

I went to the track last night to test out the new clutch and ET Street Radials...mainly I needed to know what tire pressure I wanted to be at, but unfortunately it was sprinkling on and off all the time I was there. That is definately not a good comparison when before I didn't run in the rain.:) They were still running cars every time it stopped, but I just decided to go home after it started sprinkling much harder...it was all kind of a waste of time anyway IMHO.

The only thing I got accomplished is trying out the new clutch and getting used to it. The clutch is very consistent as far as slipping goes...you can definatley slip it very easy and this setup doesn't bog or anything like that if you do happen to let it out early. The only downfall to letting it out early is you might spin.:)

Since it was sprinkling on and off and then started coming down harder I went home and unfortunately I didn't get the tires down to where I think they might do the best...I only got them down to 15psi and the car didn't hook all that great. It only managed a 1.78 60', but not sure if that is the rain on the track, or the fact that I don't know how to drive with this clutch yet.:)

I guess the bottom line is that I have to go on a much better day next time...last night was a horrible day to go. They also just re-surfaced the first 330' of the track, so the rubber isn't the same on the track as it was when I ran before. I am not sure how much that really played a role in my traction issue though.

I will either get these tires to hook, or just go back with the normal ET Streets. I can say though these tires hook just as good as the normal ET Streets on the street though. The G-meter on the track was around 1.24-1.25G's with my lower tire pressure and the meter on the street showed around 1.20G's shortly after the track...it wasn't raining at all 10 minutes away. Very weird night last night with the rain.
If I end up putting normal ET Streets back on the car I will measure the G's again on the street. I know for a fact when it hooks at the track it pulls more than 1.25g's, so it won't do anygood to measure that on the track since my Pioneer AVIC-N1 only goes up to 1.25G's.

I will keep everyone informed of the progress with the clutch/tires combo.


Take Care
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Clutch is still doing very well...I raced a 770rwhp Corvette last night that had a F1 blower on it and Hoosier 28x10" slicks. I did a very small burnout just to get the dirt off...had the tires at about 17lbs and the car just hooks WAY better than what it ever has before on the street. This was with slipping the clutch of course...I pulled quite a bit on him through 1st, 2nd and part of 3rd...but as he was hitting 3rd gear he knew something was wrong because the car didn't pull anymore. I guess he over-revved it and broke the idler pulley on it which sucked because we were going to do a couple more races after that one.:)

It was definately fun getting to go through some gears with someone using the new clutch setup...it felt awesome...the car hooked amazingly well, but I think that is mostly due to the clutch setup because I have never hooked that well on the street especially for being at 17lbs in the tires and not even really heating up the tires.

Anyway, I just wanted to let everyone know the clutch is doing very well still and looks to be very promising.:)


Take Care
 

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I just put a C/C in w/ chromemoly flywheel and pro discs. The trans makes some noise now, didn't before, and the clutch is pretty grabby, but I got used to it pretty quick. My idle is just below 750 rpm. I'll gladly trade a little noise for the durability.
 

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The CC

So you like the unit ,and how is that drive shaft holding up and where did you get the drive shaft how is it on the streat no noise or shaking.Seen your at the Tk5 meet .I just order that same rps CC .Thanks like all the info let me know.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
This clutch is still holding up strong and hasn't changed any of its properties...it still is quiet, engages incredibly well, slips very easy and holds all the power that I throw at it.

I now have around 30-35 launches with this clutch. I will keep this thread updated.

My average 60' time is between 1.57-1.59 spinning pretty good and slipping the clutch quite a bit.:)


Take Care
 

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Ex5.0 said:
I just put a C/C in w/ chromemoly flywheel and pro discs. The trans makes some noise now, didn't before, and the clutch is pretty grabby, but I got used to it pretty quick. My idle is just below 750 rpm. I'll gladly trade a little noise for the durability.

Turn the idle up to 1000-1200 RPMs. I had to do this to mine due to this and my big 272 cams that were loping. This will reduce the noise and keep higher oil pressure throughout your engine during idle stages.

DP
 
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