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Discussion Starter #1
From over the pond in the UK here, I have used the lockdown to do a single turbo conversion. I went with the street torque kit from PHR, and got it shipped over from Real St in Florida!

Went for a Precision 6266 JB 0.81AR as I'm 'only' aiming for 600bhp.

Parts list:

  • Precision 6266 JB 0.81AR
  • Precision 46mm wastegate
  • Screamer pipe
  • Precision 50mm BOV
  • Link G4+ ECU
  • Aeromotive FPR
  • FIC 1000cc injectors
  • Walbro 450LPH fuel pump
  • Top feed fuel rail kit
  • Fuel pulsation damper delete
  • FMIC kit
  • New OEM flywheel
  • RPS Max clutch
  • Spark plugs
  • Wideband O2 (for Link ECU)
  • Boost control solenoid (for Link ECU)
  • Link MAP sensor
Maintenance list:

  • Cambelt, tensioner and pulley
  • Crank pulley
  • Valve stem seals
  • Cam seals
  • Front/rear main seals if leaking
  • Water pump
  • Oil and filter
  • Fuel filter
  • Gear selector seal
So I got to work a few weeks ago, started removing the rad, airbox and intercooler piping



And continuing



Well, you guys weren't lying about the twin turbos removal, it was an absolute pain particularly the b*tch bolt. Ended up using a 14mm stubby and some leverage. Hands were absolutely battered after but managed to get them out after removing the cartridges too



And here they are, the second turbo was on its way out



Found it much easier to just get in the engine bay and work



So much room there without the twins in



Used the SST tool from Toyota and a puller kit helped get the crank bolt and pulley off



Checked valve clearances, all in spec, then camshafts out using correct undoing sequence, and the rope trick to do valve stem seals, managed to get it down to half hour for a cylinder with the practise



Cams back in with new cam seals, employing the correct tightening sequence and torque. Cam belt on and time with new pulley and tensioner. Crank pulley on and torqued up to 239ft-lbs using a 3/4 drive torque wrench and cam covers back on



Wastegate attached to manifold with screamer pipe in the kitchen



And on the car



And this is where I've got to so far- turbo on and orientated correctly, downpipe on, just need to tighten up oil feed and returns (I'll leave turbo feed loose to crank engine to make sure oil will come out before first start)



This is the best I could get the oil drain line in without ridiculous tension or cutting it down, the drain from the turbo is directly downwards. Should be okay with the 45 degree fitting at the turbo side right?



Plenty left to do, need to get the front bumper off next so I can sort the FMIC out and then attack the fuelling side of things once that's all in.

Challenges along the way:

  • Getting those twins out (b*tch bolt)
  • Sometimes had to reset the rope in the cylinder when doing valve stem seals, slows you down quite a bit
  • Being meticulous during camshaft removal and refitting, take your time and double check
  • Getting correct turbo orientation is quite fiddly
I have my fair share of experience working on cars, I've done head gaskets, engine removals, clutches etc all on my own but doing a single conversion is definitely fun (as everything just bolts up) and I've really enjoyed it so far!

I'm keen to try and give back to the community some way, everyone has been really helpful so far! Feel free to ask any questions as I have brushed over a lot.

To be continued...
 

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handy with the steel
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You're going to love it. The change from the stock twins to a single is a huge difference.
Keep up the good work!
 

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Boost Junkie
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Awesome job. Glad you hit the maintenance too while doing the upgrades. Next up do a set of cams.

Steve
 

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Awesome work...how come you didn't upgrade the cams since you had them out? Maybe some GSC S1 or BC 272 would be a nice fit for your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the kind words guys. Appreciate it. Will keep this updated I’ll be attacking the cold side of things over the next few days.

I have actually got some brand new whifbitz 264 cams but that’s for the future. For my power goals (600bhp at the crank) I don’t think it’s absolutely necessary and it would slow me down a lot with the lockdown here and trying to get some new shims etc. The old cam setup everything is in tolerance so I can drop it back in and not worry. So I decided I’d keep the new cams for the next round of upgrades in the future which will probably be combined with a bigger turbo!
 

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handy with the steel
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I have actually got some brand new whifbitz 264 cams but that’s for the future. For my power goals (600bhp at the crank) I don’t think it’s absolutely necessary and it would slow me down a lot with the lockdown here and trying to get some new shims etc. The old cam setup everything is in tolerance so I can drop it back in and not worry. So I decided I’d keep the new cams for the next round of upgrades in the future which will probably be combined with a bigger turbo!
If it were me I'd replace the cams. 6 months from now it won't matter if it took a couple extra weeks to get the new shims, but those cams will be staring at you from across the room.
 

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Looks like you've really spent the time to do the research. Impressive. My setup is very similar and I love it. So nice to work on after deleting all the factory junk. One tip while you are installing, make sure you tighten down your V-band clamps on the wastegate and BOV real good. My tial Q has fallen off twice while driving in the last couple years. The replacement clamp is about $35 USD and a couple weeks of down time. Also the screamer pipe is awesome when someone pisses you off and you fly by them, all my buddies hate driving on my right side because its so loud at WOT. Best of luck in your build!
 

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Great work man! I had the exact kit and turbo at one point on a stock ecu and that was a very fun street setup with excellent response you’ll like it a lot, but it’s also just enough to want some more haha and that screamer pipe is fun when you see people’s faces haha. It’s loud but makes it sound so much meaner! Looking forward to seeing it evolve!
 

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Mind if I do a J?
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Hey man great job! Love to see people actually wrenching on their own cars here. Regarding the cams, I think you’d be surprised. The 264 profile cams (HKS, BC, etc.) and even the 268 GSC S1 typically drop right in with no reshim necessary. Give it a shot 😉
 

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Moved to Builds & Projects.


Ken.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looks like you've really spent the time to do the research. Impressive. My setup is very similar and I love it. So nice to work on after deleting all the factory junk. One tip while you are installing, make sure you tighten down your V-band clamps on the wastegate and BOV real good. My tial Q has fallen off twice while driving in the last couple years. The replacement clamp is about $35 USD and a couple weeks of down time. Also the screamer pipe is awesome when someone pisses you off and you fly by them, all my buddies hate driving on my right side because its so loud at WOT. Best of luck in your build!
I did spend a fair few months researching, managed to get it just right for a 600bhp setup I think! Thanks dude yeah I will make sure I tighten everything down good when I do my final checks. Can't wait to hear the sound of the screamer! I still need to get the flange welded for my Precision BOV on the intake pipe.

Great work man! I had the exact kit and turbo at one point on a stock ecu and that was a very fun street setup with excellent response you’ll like it a lot, but it’s also just enough to want some more haha and that screamer pipe is fun when you see people’s faces haha. It’s loud but makes it sound so much meaner! Looking forward to seeing it evolve!
Thanks for your kind words mate, I was tempted to keep the stock ECU but I only have the 440cc JDM injectors, so I was really keen on getting something a bit more suitable for the power goal I'm trying to achieve.

Nice build and good to see another UK guy here. Looking forward to seeing more progress.
Hope you enjoy the progress, nice to see someone from the UK here too!

Hey man great job! Love to see people actually wrenching on their own cars here. Regarding the cams, I think you’d be surprised. The 264 profile cams (HKS, BC, etc.) and even the 268 GSC S1 typically drop right in with no reshim necessary. Give it a shot 😉
It's one of my favourite hobbies, my last project was to save an old Peugeot 306 HDi from the graveyard. It was my late grandfathers and he wanted me to fix it up. It's now my daily driver and is sitting at 197,000 miles. To be honest the Supra is a dream come true. Working on the Supra and doing a single turbo conversion is a SUPER dream come true! I did actually drop them in to see in the end, absolutely every single shim was very tight, I'm just leaving it for another job another day- which will come in tandem with some more upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So over the past few days I managed to make a bit more progress. I started taking the front bumper off and headlights to attack the intercooler plumbing



Was pretty fiddly and I had to cut some of the lower inserts to get the piping to fit correctly around the sides. Was also a bit time consuming getting the power steering cooler relocated by the side light above the intercooler piping on the right hand side



Gave it a good clean in there (it was very dusty behind the bumper) and reinstalled everything! Having felt quite exhausted from rolling around on the floor for hours I was happy to get half the inlet manifold off to get closer to installing the injectors and top feed fuel rail kit. Never done this bit before so it's going to take a bit of learning on my part



Also thinking ahead slightly, If I depressurise the fuel tank I should be okay taking everything from the fuel filter onwards off right? Or am I completely wrong here?

In terms of the charcoal canister, should this stay? I'm struggling to find positions for my oil catch can from PHR.
 

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handy with the steel
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You may need to zip tie the fuel feed line above the tank level, or else it can leak.

regarding the charcoal canister, you will get mixed replies. I deleted mine for catch cans, and I get some fuel smells. Others claim they don’t.
It doesn’t bother me, because racecar, but If this is a daily driver you might consider leaving it.
 

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Never been in a car with a deleted charcoal canister that didn't have fuel smells, some very strong in garages where the cars had sat for weeks. All my cars are street cars and I kept the canisters for the reasons noted. I would recommend retaining it based upon my own experiences.


Ken.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Never been in a car with a deleted charcoal canister that didn't have fuel smells, some very strong in garages where the cars had sat for weeks. All my cars are street cars and I kept the canisters for the reasons noted. I would recommend retaining it based upon my own experiences.


Ken.
Looks like it’s staying! Thanks for your replies guys greatly appreciated.
 
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