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Fastest Factory Auto
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Discussion Starter #1
Like the subject says, my powerslots keep warping, I've had them resurfaced 3 times now, everytime i put my front wheels on I torque them down in a star pattern to 88 ft-lbs. Within 3k miles they are warped to the point that I can no longer stand it anymore.

The only thing I can come up with is that maybe they are on the wrong sides, they are labeled L and R, so they must be designed for each individual side, They have been on the car since I purchased it, so I've just been putting them on the way that they have always been on...

See the picture for the direction the slots are facing, this is the only thing I can come up with at this point, unless these are just junk rotors...



Matt
 

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1320ms said:
Like the subject says, my powerslots keep warping, I've had them resurfaced 3 times now, everytime i put my front wheels on I torque them down in a star pattern to 88 ft-lbs. Within 3k miles they are warped to the point that I can no longer stand it anymore.

The only thing I can come up with is that maybe they are on the wrong sides, they are labeled L and R, so they must be designed for each individual side, They have been on the car since I purchased it, so I've just been putting them on the way that they have always been on...

See the picture for the direction the slots are facing, this is the only thing I can come up with at this point, unless these are just junk rotors...



Matt
You got it they are junk, if i'm not mistaken they come plated and then the plating wears off with use possibly unevenly. Rotors generally dont warp but they do get uneven distribution of pad material. When you are doing hard braking or racing make sure you don't put on the e brake when you park, leave it in gear or block the tires so it won't roll.When rotors are hot applying the parking brake will burn pad material into one spot on the rotor and the next time you apply the brakes it feels warped.
 

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On other cars I've had, resurfacing has just caused them to warp faster. You're taking away material with every resurface making them thinner and less capable with dealing with heat. Whether it's actual warping on uneven surface from bonded pad material, resurfacing aways caused the problem to come back faster. So now I never resurface. I replace the brakes as a set when needed. I've not tried the power slot, but almost everyone says use stock rotors and if they aren't enough for your style of driving and hard braking, then it's time to look into a big brake kit.
 

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SF's Cleanest
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go for some rotora rotors from dusty at MVP. I got them a few months ago, very happy with them and they werent expensive at all. :)
 
M

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Is it also possible that you're not bedding in the rotors correctly once they've been resurfaced, and thus causing uneven pad distribution along the rotor.

Generally, about 5-10 60mph to 5mph high speed braking sessions done consecutively will do this, not leaving your foot on the brake while parked.
 

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Fastest Factory Auto
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Discussion Starter #6
I'm going to get them resurfaced one more time, and try a different set of pads, if that doesnt do it, I'll probably just pick up a set of stock rotors...



Thanks
 

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Torque spec is 76 ft/lbs.

Each time you get them resurfaced they will warp easier.

Get stock rotors -- they are the best for the $.
 

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Fastest Factory Auto
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Discussion Starter #8
When you say stock, are you talking OEM toyota? Or will a stock replacement from any parts store do?

Thanks
 
M

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Yepm they say our stock rotors are THE ABSOLUTE BEST for daily driving applications. Drilled and slotted are just for looks.
 

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THE NOTORIOUS BHP
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not trying to be a jerk but i have always thought they were junk too. In fact I once ordered a new set of them and took one look at them and returned them with restocking fee attached. When the guy asked why I said cause they look like they are cheap crap and I dont want them on my car.
 

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Fastest Factory Auto
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
yeah, I've never been a big fan of powerslot rotors, even less now.. If they werent on the car when I got it I'd still have stock rotors..

The definately do appear to be on the wrong sides though, but again, they've been like that since I bought the car, they are stamped L and R, I will have to double check but I believe L is on the drivers side and R is on the pass side.. I'll have to look into that now too
 

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quick said:
Torque spec is 76 ft/lbs.

Each time you get them resurfaced they will warp easier.

Get stock rotors -- they are the best for the $.
Agree. Typical drilled or slotted rotors don't seem to give any advantage, and the stock rotors are pretty amazing! :)
 

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feeding your habit
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Here is the problem, your rotors are fine. This will happen again, regardless of what brand rotor you buy.

You need to have check to see that your calipers slide freely on their guides and that all the caliper pistons are free and not stuck.

This is easy to do if you don't know how to do it, just remove the wheel, grab the rotor and see if it spins freely. Also check to make sure you can slide the caliper in and out along the axis of the wheel, this will tell you if the guides are free. You should be able to compress the pistons as well, but it may take a c-clamp or you would be better off pulling the caliper off the rotor and moving each piston individually.

Your problem isn't the rotor or all those rediculous problems listed by everyone (except mike 91t) - those are some out-there suggestions.

Brakes are probably one of the easiest things to service on your car, maybe one step beyond oil changes or battery replacement. The toyota calipers are so easy to remove it's great.

-M
 
M

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98mkiv said:
Here is the problem, your rotors are fine. This will happen again, regardless of what brand rotor you buy.

You need to have check to see that your calipers slide freely on their guides and that all the caliper pistons are free and not stuck.

This is easy to do if you don't know how to do it, just remove the wheel, grab the rotor and see if it spins freely. Also check to make sure you can slide the caliper in and out along the axis of the wheel, this will tell you if the guides are free. You should be able to compress the pistons as well, but it may take a c-clamp or you would be better off pulling the caliper off the rotor and moving each piston individually.

Your problem isn't the rotor or all those rediculous problems listed by everyone (except mike 91t) - those are some out-there suggestions.

Brakes are probably one of the easiest things to service on your car, maybe one step beyond oil changes or battery replacement. The toyota calipers are so easy to remove it's great.

-M
Yeh I guess a proper break-in procedure was a pretty dumb-ass idea huh?
 

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feeding your habit
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No, but your method of break in is not the proper method.

"Generally, about 5-10 60mph to 5mph high speed braking sessions done consecutively will do this, not leaving your foot on the brake while parked."

When you break in pads and rotors together you are cutting/polishing the surfaces of the rotors and pads. What you suggest is not the right way to do this. Your method can causing glazing of the pads and uneven pad wear (from glazing only parts of the pads). The proper way to break in your brakes is to be farily gentle on them - allowing them to seat to each other without generating too much heat.

-M
 

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Fastest Factory Auto
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
The OEM rotors are good, but how about the TRD rotors? Any opinions on those?

And someone correct me if I'm wrong, but L = drivers side, R = pass side?

Matt
 

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Supra Owner Since 1996
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I have this same problem with brand new factory rotors and pads. I had about 2k miles on them and then the car was down all winter for a tranny. When I finally got the car back on the road any braking over 55mph leaves the steering wheel shaking all over the place pissing me off. I could have swarn I hadn't done any hard breaking previous to this and all seemed fine. I am going to take the rotors in to see if they were warped. I will have to check my calipers while i'm at it.
 
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