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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I decided to post this up to hopefully answer any questions for DIY'ers that want to remove their stock twins and go install this kit.



I do want to note one of the advantages to this kit I found was the fact PHR does great work, heat coats everything, and the downpipe bolts right up to your stock exhaust/RMM downpipe. You can essentially do this in about 10 hours your first go around, took me too days because I stripped a bolt on my turbo side exhaust flange so I had to cut in a tight space.

I will note that you WILL need to go purchase 3 bolts and nuts to bolt up your current TT downpipe to the turbo-side downpipe. There is also a Dayco hose to purchase to change out the stock heater hose to bring it away from the downpipe, but I feel the stock one will be okay. There was plenty of clearance.

Yes, this was done in my driveway with basic tools.

Anyway on to the steps and pictures.

1. Go ahead and get your tools set aside. You'll need various metric sockets, ranging from 10mm to 17mm, and if you have deep sockets of the same sizes then itll help great.

You'll need some wrenchs as well, to provide leverage if needed for those tight spaces.

Needle nose pliers and regular pliers will help you a ton with the coolant lines, or if your like me and the blown twins are going in the trash, I used some pipe cutters and a razor blade to make some precise incisions.

One technique you will need to get used to is the bitch bolt technique for the one exhaust bolt on the stock twins side. You will need a 14mm stubby wrench and a breaker bar for leverage if doing in car. I had previously removed it, so for me I was able to tap it loose with a mallet.

You will need pans to drain the oil and coolant out into.

Grab the TSRM while you're at it. http://www.97supraturbo.com/Tech.html

2. Get the car on some jackstands, and prepare it for surgery. Start by draining the oil and coolant. I will let you know that by jacking up the front, some coolant will remain in the back coolant lines on the turbo assembly. What I did was stab a hole at that lowest point and let gravity do the work for this.

Oil drain:



Coolant drain:



2. This is what I had to work with on my stock twins. I had dual twin intakes, but all that removed was the vacuum hardlines on the top and the front turbo intake pipe. The vacuum hardlines are held on by 10mm bolts. The two bolts on the front turbo are held on by two 12mm bolts. Youll pull it up and give it a little strentgh to bring in the accordian coupler and it will slide out.



After you remove the stuff above:




3. Go ahead and disconnect the intercooler pipe and remove it. The hot side piping comes with the PHR kit to bolt up to a Greddy style intercooler is drop down.



4.Next remove the two 12mm nuts holding the hot side pipe from the No.1 turbo.



The remove the back two. 12mm.



5. Here is what you should see now.



Remove the little heat nozzle (I forget what its called, the black thing above) Held on my two 10mm bolts.



Next remove the stock heatshield. You will see 4 14mm bolts holding it on. Two on top, two on the side. Now pull it out and youll be left with this.



And here you are. I have been asked about the coolant lines. You can remove them if you want, but they can stay on.

6. Now its time to remove your downpipe. 3 14mm nuts. Youll need a couple extensions on this one while laying on your back.



Continued next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
7. You can do this step prior to unbolting the downpipe, but I like to get out from under the car on occasion so this was the way I did it. Time to remove the heater hoses. First disconnect the coolant bypass from the back pipe and the IACV. Discard it, you wont need it. Then remove the heater return hose that goes from the firewall to the return hardline. You can see what you need to pull in the pic below.



8. I apologize for not getting a picture of this before removal, but now its time to remove the EGCV. This is where that 14mm stubby comes in pay. Youll be able to access two nuts with a socket just from looking at it. Feel around for the third one and then place the stubby on there. Either use a breaker bar to give it leverage, or break it free with a deadblow. This is what the EGCV looks like removed.



You can see where the third nut is right there on top to give you an idea where to look.

9. Next go ahead and remove the oil drain and feed lines from both turbos. They are the black hard pipes that bolt to the underside of the turbos, and if I remember correctly they both have two 10mm nuts holding them on, and a 17mm union bolt in the block for the oil feed lines.





I did not have the two turbo stays on my turbo set-up, and you may have to remove those first. But refer to the TSRM. They are held on by 17mm bolts to the engine block. Also while you are down there you will see two coolant hoses. Go ahead and disconnect those. BE PREPARED FOR COOLANT TO SPILL OUT.

10. On the front side of the block you see the oil return flange. It is held on by two 12mm nuts. I do not have a picture for this but you will see it. At this point you will be ready to remove the turbos from the manifold. It will take muscle, and you will see the 14mm nuts that hold it on. A word of advice, USE A BOX END ON THESE. I stripped one here and had to cut the flange off. There are 4 on the bottom and 4 on top.

11. Now you should have this:



Making progress! These are 14mm nuts. You need to reuse all but two studs, so take caution, or if you have new studs you will use a #5 Torx socket if I remember correctly.

Next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Here starts the real fun.

12. Heres the kit laid out:



Go ahead and install the wastegate flange and your wastegate. I recommend doing this out of car, because I used a 1 bar spring and when its bottom mounted like that will take a little strength to compress the valve slightly to put the v-band on.



If you havent messed with a wastegate before, youll see the allen bolts that hold it down. After you remove those you place the springs in, and press the top back down making sure not to pinch the diaphram. Heres a quick chart for you:



Bolt it back together and install by pressing the valve side towards the exhaust manifold and putting the supplied v band clamp over. NOTE: FACE THE WASTEGATE EXHAUST PORT FACING A 45 DEGREE ANGLE FROM THE FENDER SIDE.

13. Youll have to take the middle two exhaust studs out and replace them with the supplied shortened ones.



14. Bolt up the manifold using TSRM torque specs. Mine shows the wastegate not installed, I learned the hard way.



15. Since you have the room, attached the oil drain flange. Make sure the AN fitting is tight on the flange.



16. Next is the oil feed. I used the one for the front turbo. Make sure its tight otherwise you will leak. Trust me. Then in the supplied hardware, youll see a single 17mm bolt. This is for the back oil feed. Plug it up and forget about it.



17. Go ahead and install the screw in adapter for your wideband onto the downpipe. I pulled mine off my stock twins.



18. This next part I failed to get pictures of because I was too involved with it. Time for the turbo install.

You will have to disassemble the turbo.

You will see on both backs of the turbo 13mm bolts holding the compressor cover on the the turbo and the ones that connect the turbo to the hot side. Remove the cover, and then pull the blade assembly out of the hot side. This will give you room to bolt it up. Use the supplied 14mm bolts and tighten it down. Then reassemble the turbo in the reverse order. NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT THE OIL DRAIN PORT FACES DIRECTLY DOWN. OTHERWISE YOU MAY HAVE TO SEND THE TURBO TO BE REBUILT IN A FEW HUNDRED MILES. ALSO THE COMPRESSOR COVER NEEDS TO FACE DOWN AS IN THE PICTURE BELOW FOR INTERCOOLER PIPE ROUTING.

Afterwards, this is when I installed the oil drain and feed fittings. The oil drain needs to be tightened down good in the turbo otherwise you will slowly leak. Tighten down the oil drain and feeding fittings and youre good to go.



As you can see in the picture I used coolant caps on the waterneck. After replaced a cracked one after 2k miles, I sent a spare upper waterneck to be shaved. You can also drill and tap or an NPT fitting to go in (recommended with a garage build, if you dont want downtime.) or order some high temp caps.

Install the intake pipe. I ended up turning it some to face more inside the air flow.



19. Just some misc pictures to act as an aid. The intercooler pipe drops down under the lower radiator hose.



This is how I have my wastegate dump pipe. It goes facing through the subframe. If you need to rotate the wastegate, loosen the v-band and turn it. Then tighten it back up.



The downpipe heads towards the back of the car like stock. Thats pretty straightforward. The bolt up your exhaust like stock.



The Dayco hose that I used.




After you finish, start it up and let it idle and check for leaks. Give it some throttle and recheck.

Its not to bad of an install and I love the 6266 and how it spools. With this, a 1 bar spring, I see 16 psi to redline and full boost at 3400 rpm. If you have any install questions let me or PHR know and they can assist. I also expect Bryan to elaborate on anything that could have been done better :]

I assume this guide can apply to the other kits that other shops offer, and can be used as a point of reference. If anyone requires a photo of anything, PM me and I will go take one. Thanks for reading.
 

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Aphlux, thank you for a fantastic writeup. I don't have this kit, nor do I intend to purchase one at this stage, but this lays it out really beautifully. Thanks for taking the time to do it :)
 

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definitely a nice write-up.

can this set-up be ran safely on stock fuel system? Granted, optimum power/potential won't be there with that kind of restriction.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I run it on the stock fuel system @ 16 psi safely. Im on an AEM v2 of course, but Hellbringer has a similar kit from PHR (tubular manifold) but hes on the stock ECU and runs a race gas mix and does 560 whp IIRC.

Only different between this and the tubular is that this spools up quicker. I dont have any videos, but it spools up quicker than my car being in TTC.
 

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Really good job laying out how to go about removing the twins & getting this setup. This is in my not too distant future so its good to see an updated thread with pics. Hoping you post some vids or dyno charts soon.
 

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Great write-up Jesse! Thanks for the purchases, good decision on the PHR kit given your goals.

Too many people go for tubular manifolds that will never take advantage of them. This kit is a much better decision (not to mention cheaper) for those not wanting to use large turbos.
More torque, quicker spool, cheaper price...what's not to love?

Cheers,

Dusty
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Can you explain proving a point? Not coming off like an dick or anything, im just curious by what you mean. Just as Dusty put it, unless you are running a large turbo running 30+ on boost, you wont see the gains of one.

Manifold setup is dependant on application. Log manifolds can fit a 6766 and hit full boost quick, and a 6466 has already been shown to make over 900 whp with a fantastic torque curve on e85 and 10:1 compression.

I just wish I would have gone with a DBB turbo though, but for the price the journal 6266 is great.

And thanks Dusty.
 

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Nice setup - mine is basically the same. What are you using for waste gate lines?
 
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