I will not tell Steve. Thank you, saying the work looks professional means a lot coming from you! I am handy and have done a little bit of a lot of things, but not much sound dampening work. My goal here was to help the road noise issue without adding a lot of weight.
It is hard to say what one area if treated would provide the most gains. I originally thought the hatch and spare tire well was the biggest problem. What I learned by just doing this area with Dynamat was there was no noticeable reduction in road noise, it just appeared to be coming from another place. Look at it like soundproofing a recording studio but not installing a door.
I know what you mean about the concrete freeways, it can be brutal and I doubt just doing the floor would fix that. I believe the wheel wells are a problem. Adding a damper to the wheel liner and the heat shield behind left rear tire helps with the tinkling rock sounds. The only gain from doing the roof is killing structure born vibrations. I added foam to the roof in hopes of absorbing some ambient noise.
The car will be done, should be done this weekend. You are welcome to take a ride if you can deal with a lazy single turbo car.
ridah, I never totaled up the costs, but it took about three weeks or so off and on. Quite a bit of that time was waiting for more materials.
neonafk, Thanks! I added about 55 lbs if the math is right.
RRocket, Those are killer results! Second Skin offers some spray on products too.
spdu4ea, I will keep you posted. I still have the OEM hood insulation in place. In the foot wells I went to the OEM firewall mat.
TT Tercel, Thank you! Not a Lexus, like Stu said Supra's are nasty on concrete freeways. What liner are you thinking about doing?
talongvr4, I did not remove any of the factory dampening material, just went over the top of it. Doubled up in hopes for a quieter ride. Thank you and I will keep you posted.
Trust me, you'll notice a big difference when it starts to rain Before dampening, I wasn't able to speak with the passenger when raindrops hit the car. It just a single layer of aluminium which acts like a big drum.
Another way to dampen resonance and noise is to fill all hollow cavaties with great stuff spray foam from Home Depot. A pillar, B pillar, etc. will benefit from this. Many german cars add this type of product during production. One note of caution: when the stuff dries it is virtually impossible to get off of vinyl, carpet, etc. It will work its way out of little holes and gaps, so make sure you put masking tape over these and remove interior or place plastic under area where you are working. The stuff is only $5 per can and adds very little weight.
Finally got the car put back together and had a chance to take it for a quick blast up the freeway. My labor has paid off. Surfaces encountered were new asphalt, old asphalt, ground concrete and old concrete. Pretty nice db reduction for the weight added and has met my expectations.
If you could relate this to a percentage of noise drop, where would you put it?
Anything above a 20% noise level drop I might consider doing this next winter. I think what you have detailed should be good enough to follow.
I am not familiar with any of these materials except the name dynomat. Could you provide us maybe with links on where to get all of those ingredients?
Right on! I vote for a sticky. What was the accurate weight you added to the car. Just a thought if I'd scrape the factory sound deadner (is it worth it?) & replaced with dynamat or similar products you mentioned will yield better results in noise & weight reduction, or should I leave the factory. Also where do you think are the crucial areas that is needed to be address. I'm seriously considering doing this as well as I hear alot of road & wind noise and especially by just removing the rear upper seats makes it worse.
93.5 MKIV TT Auto BPU+++
92 GVR4 #208
92 Talon 476 AWHP SOLD
I think you have done a great job. I hate how many rattles/ squeaks I get from the rear of the car, especially from the coilovers. When I get the time I will definitely be doing something like this.
I think this is where a TON of noise enters our car. Have you ever thought about putting some type of insulation in the cavity? I saw somebody on the nissan boards put insulation simlular to what they use in houses in the cavity and they said it dropped road noise considerably. It is also very light so there would be no negative effects of trying it. This is the area I am talking about below.
It reduced exhaust noise greatly, but not so much of the road noise...I think the tire tread design of my BFG KDs may have a lot to do with it.
Personally, I think the OP's project is a bit of overkill.
Sound level (dB) is measured on a logarithmic scale, so to get even a 1 dB drop in sound level is quite an accomplishement.
I definitely think there are "bang for the buck" areas for noise reduction material placement. Obviously, the stock locations are some. Looking at some of the newer Toyotas, sound deadening material is placed on the inner surface of the wheel wells. And, thicker glass is used for the winshield/windows. It'd be interesting if someone on here would like to put together some data by measuring interior dB in increments of sound deadening material (+ location) applied.
Thats a true designation to sound noise dampening. Looks like you really had it and you went above and beyond. Most, like myself will have done just basic interior. Great job considering its time consuming & very neat. GL with it
Stu, it is very hard to provide a percentage of reduction, but maybe:
Smooth Asphalt -15%
Average Asphalt -10%
Old Concrete -8%
All of the products came from secondskinaudio.com
talongvr4, Never had the car on a scale. Decided to leave the factory material in place, I assume Toyota Engineers selected these locations for a reason. There was no factory material installed on the floor of my car, they cut back in '98
The critical areas seem to be wheel wells, floor and back seat waterfall.
RemixPinoY, Thank you! The audiophiles give me crap for not doing enough.
Brian R., Thanks for the kind words! I do suffer with a little O.C.D, rattles being one of the issues.
I think I'll keep the car, besides a HP God like you would have no use for it except driving the kids to ice skating lessons or something.
I cannot thank you enough for all of the help.
cwtt, Thank you. I covered just the wheel well and brake duct with Overkill Pro. The audiophiles would probably fill this area.
95blacksupra, Thanks. Just prepare to bleed.
ACEspiritu, Your work looks great! I also run the BFG KD's, maybe it is just the tires! Did you use any foam or just a dampener?
Last year, I went from a stage 4 non-VVTi head to a stage 5 VVTi head ; on the same 6870 turbo.
We put the Supra on the dyno before and after.
Non-VVTi : 850 rwhp and 660 rwtq @ 2.1 Bar / 31 psi
VVTi : 934 rwhp and 747 rwtq @ 2.3 Bar / 34 psi
We overlayed the 2 curves : 700 rpm...
Hi Supraforums family,
Is it okay to use exhaust manifold bolts without a washer or lock washer? Or, will they eventually back out or cause problems when the meta expands. I don’t have studs for all the exhaust manifold holes, so I just want this to work, but be safe too.
First time posting here.
Okay had a friend who "knew what I am doing get off my back" help jump the car in storage and the car blew the 120 amp fuse.
The car is a 1997 twin turbo auto with minor upgrades and I think a jet programmed ecu.
I replaced the 120 amp fuses, the others look to be...
Hi Supraforums family,
I need to change my 26 year-old EGR cooler gasket on the back of the 2JZ-GE cylinder head by the firewall. However, no local toyota or Lexus dealership has these parts in stock and I need my car running by this Sunday.
Can I use some kind of “gasket maker” that comes in...
Hi everyone, this question is for anyone who may be using or has used the borg warner turbos
Can the .91 A/R turbine be exchanged without replacing the turbine wheel? let say dropping it down to .82 A/R ?
I know that its sold with .92 hot side